'Professional' grade saws vs. 'Homeowner' saws

[sea2summit]

I still have both style of saws for different reasons but more and more I reach for the computer controlled saws it’s nice not having to adjust stuff constantly to keep the saws running at their best at all times.

Try fixing a computer saw in the field or running less than optimally water free fuel through it. No way would I buy a CM Stihl, so glad they brought back carbureted 261s.

 

[Skeans1]

14" for a top handle running applicable chain.

There’s a big difference use to be anything in the 20’s was a short bar 30’s were the standard and 40’s up were long bars.

Try fixing a computer saw in the field or running less than optimally water free fuel through it. No way would I buy a CM Stihl, so glad they brought back carbureted 261s.

I’ve ran those 555’s and 562’s since they’ve come out without issues we run standard pump 87 E10 fuel through all our saws I’ve never had an issue.

 

[sea2summit]

Been looking at used saws…..what people want for them is ridiculous.
I see saws that cost $599 new and they want $500 or $899 new and they want $750.

Who would take that kind of chance to save ~$100 bucks?

My Stihl dealer usually does ~10% for tools and a little more for parts. Never hurts to ask.

Also, 10 years from now do you want to have to buy a replacement because you wore out a homeowner grade saw or still be running a pro grade? Stihl ranch saws are also a great saw even if running them very often.

 

[Skeans1]

This was done where the 562’s were done when it was almost brand new.

the upper is of the 385 I used was breaking in cutting second growth and still do when it’s called for. The other is a 395 setup to pull a 60” bar reason for that long of a bar is the property line right behind it and stumps out in front of the tree.

 

[sea2summit]

I’ve ran those 555’s and 562’s since they’ve come out without issues we run standard pump 87 E10 fuel through all our saws I’ve never had an issue.

If we all believe that anything with more than two parts will eventually wear out and/or break. Will you be able to repair it when it does eventually break?

 

[sea2summit]

View attachment 815802View attachment 815803This was done where the 562’s were done when it was almost brand new.View attachment 815804View attachment 815805the upper is of the 385 I used was breaking in cutting second growth and still do when it’s called for. The other is a 395 setup to pull a 60” bar reason for that long of a bar is the property line right behind it and stumps out in front of the tree.

Which axe is that?

 

[Skeans1]

Which axe is that?

The fiskar or the council?

 

[Skeans1]

If we all believe that anything with more than two parts will eventually wear out and/or break. Will you be able to repair it when it does eventually break?

Yes I will, it’s just a carb on those saws and honestly most of the time by the time I’m done with a saw they’re worn out in the bottom end anyways. Normal schedule for me is one top end and then run it for a while then either get rid of it or scrap it for parts, by this time the bottom end is getting loose in this application you’re putting a lot more strain on them then firewood would.

 

[sea2summit]

The fiskar or the council?

Google tells me the council, thanks.

 

[5030]

we run standard pump 87 E10 fuel through all our saws I’ve never had an issue.

That is because you are using them often and that don't apply to ocassional users where the saw sits for a prolonged time. Put E10 (with mix of course) in a saw and let it sit for a couple months or longer without use and report back....