Project Farm reviews chain sharpeners

[John_Mc]

I do not saw a lot and have found the Pferd 2 in 1 a cheap and effective means for a hack like me to do a decent job.

I like not having to remove the chain from the saw and getting the rakers done in one operation. From the video shown, it takes a chain to "like new" performance in a few minutes for $35. There may be better ways, but sometimes good enough is good enough.

Thanks for posting the video. It was very informative.

My earlier post was not meant to be a slam against the Stihl 2-in-1/Pferd Chainsharp CSX system. They do work well. They are faster than some other methods if you are to the point where your depth gauges need touching up. They get good results - better than most people can get freehand filing with just a bare file (including better and more consistent than most people who think they are doing a good job freehand), and certainly a LOT better than continuing to cut with even a slightly dulled chain. THere is not much to learn, other than to be sure you are taking a straight stroke: not changing your filing angle (up and down or left and right) during the stroke. with the addition of a stump vise if you are sharpening in the woods, or your home shop vise to hold the chainsaw steady so you can use 2 hands on the file guide, it becomes very easy to get good results. (It's possible to do as good a job without the vise, it just takes a bit more time & attention.)

It's possible to better than what this guide does, but the effects are subtle. I could get better traction on my vehicles if I replaced the tires every year, but for me it's just not worth the bother & expense for the slight improvement. For me, my choice not to use the Pferd/Stihl guide as my "goto" method for chain sharpening is as much about the fact that I like the process I go through when I sharpen as it is about the slight performance difference.

In short, whatever method you use, as long as you do it properly, is probably the best "performance mod" you can do on your chainsaw. (I do get a chuckle out of one friend who likes to get his saws "woods ported" for extra performance, but only touches up his chains during a day of sawing if he hits the dirt or a rock.)

My favorite quote (from a Game of Logging Instructor):
"Don't sharpen a chain because it got dull, sharpen it to keep it from getting dull."
His point was that a lot of people wait too long. If your chain is no longer "self feeding", it's time to touch things up: it's easier on your saw, and it's easier on the operator.

 

[FTG-05]

Thanks John, that be good stuff!!!

 

[WranglerX]

In the video in post 21, I don't understand how the guy can put any force into the face of the cutter without the chain moving back. Could be that the chain is so tight that it moves hard ?

Didn't view video but I use chain brake on my Stihl...

Dale

 

[John_Mc]

Thanks John, that be good stuff!!!

Other than the "... sharpen to keep it from getting dull" advice, then next best piece of advice on sharpening I've heard is: "Just ignore the macho guys who will sneer at you for using a guide" (usually with some comment along the lines of "needing training wheels").

If you take the time to learn to use the guide as it is intended (most of them don't take long to learn), you are sharpening better than 90% of the freehand filers out there, and you are ending up with a chain that works as the manufacturer intended and with a good blend of self-feeding cutting and durability. There are some common errors you need to learn to avoid, but they are pretty straight-forward, and obvious, once someone points them out to you.

Sure, it's possible to make the chain cut more aggressively, but in most cases, that is at the cost of durability (of the chain, the saw, and/or the operator). There are tweaks you can make to make it better suited for various conditions or uses tweaking angles, or you can go to square-filed chain for better cutting performance and greater durability (but square filed is also far less forgiving of even small errors in sharpening technique).

 

[FTG-05]

(No offense, but that's the most pitiful beer icon in the history of beer icons. $10M for brand new forum software and that's the best beer icon we get? Somebody got ripped off.)

 

[Ddh1961]

I’ve been using the Chicago Electric sharpener for about 6 months now and have been impressed. Does a great job and only takes a few minutes per chain. I paid about $24 USD for the sharpener with a coupon, which is hard to beat. I use an Oregon depth gauge jig and file I got off Amazon for around 5 bucks to knock down the depth gauges as needed on every second or third sharpening. This system has worked very well for me so far and it’s more convenient and a whole lot less $ than paying a shop to sharpen my chains for me.

 

[wilhary]

Great info here! I'm into this for many years and I had used different brands of chainsaws for my wood cutting. I added a new member to my best chainsaw collection that is Oregon CS1500 which works on a battery having a weight of 12.6 pounds and 16 inches in length. If you are looking for a high-power, low-noise electric chainsaw for trimming branches and limbs in your yard you can have Oregon CS1500 corded chainsaw.