Proper way to bind tractor onto trailer?

[kevincook]

I saw a 10 wheel dump truck pulling a trailer with an excavator on it. I would estimate the excavator was somewhere between 15k and 20k pounds, probably closer to 15k. It did have a dozer blade mounted....I had never seen an excavator this large with a blade before.

He had a chain run OVER the top of the dozer blade on one end and then had a ratchet binder on each side on the back end. The binders connected from the side of the trailer to the inside edge of the track. Yes, the binder was simply hooked onto the track. There was a third chain that ran through a chain hook on the boom and down to each side of the trailer with a binder on each side.

I don't know much but this looked like an accident waiting to happen to me.

Be Safe,
Kevin

 

[QRTRHRS]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( All of this very useful dialogue raises another question. What are the pros and cons of lever vs. ratchet load binders? Does it make any safety difference assuming binders are rated at least equal to the chain used (grade 70, obviously)? If not, what about convenience/ease of use?

)</font>I have used the lever style much more than the ratchets. The levers are faster to work with and will take a tremendous amount of abuse for really heavy applications. You hook one end, open it and hook the other. You can quickly see if you have the right link. They will bite you if you are not careful releasing the tension or if you slip while levering it tight.

Sometimes the lever seems to be too loose or too tight. That calls for a piece of pipe for added leverage so that it works on the tighter link. Be very careful working with a pipe on a lever style binder.

The ratchets take a few seconds of cranking to tighten or release enough to hook or unhook. Just like tightening up a bolt with a socket, you can get just the amount of tension you desire. They won't bite you either.

The levers are easier to store and take less room. A comparable ratchet costs just a bit more than a lever.

 

[keeney]

Technically, adding a pipe on the handle on a lever-action binder can be a no-no (for tightening). Some of the literature I found on tie-down chains indicated that it is possible to generate forces that will exceed the WLL of the chains even using just hand pressure on the binder. Exceeding the WLL of the chain is even easier to do with a pipe on the lever handle.

When securing a tractor with tires, the tires would just compress a little long before you get to such forces, but for a solid, inflexible object, it may matter.

- Rick

 

[keeney]

In regards to: "[MBS / MBF] ... I've seen it called out also uses a disclaimer saying not to use it for sizing or design."

That is correct, you should always use the rated WLL as the design limit for the application of the tie-down so as to leave a margin of safety and to acocmodate some deterioration with use (rusting, abrasion, friction wear, abuse, UV damage to nylon webbing, etc.).

Another interesting specificaiton on chain is the Proof load that the manufacturer claims they actually test the stuff at (or test a random sample at). This will be somewhere between the WLL and the MBF. You want your proof test load to stay in the elastic portion of the yield curve so as not to be destructively testing the product by stretching it.

- Rick

 

[RonR]

QRTRHRS,

I originally purchased a rachet binder after buying my BX2200, to go with the Grade 70 chains and trailer. I thought I would like it, but I did not. I consider it to be the same "safety wise" as the over center binder.

Here's what I found in using it, and it was generally in tighter quarters as my trailer is smaller:

Load Tractor
Attach chains
Insert rachet binder & tighten
Loosen rachet binder when it ran out of threads, due to slack in chain.
Tighten rachet binder

After doing this drill several times, I went back to the OLD overcenter binder I had with the previous tractor.

For me, much faster & easier. Since my tractor is small, I don't consider using a cheater pipe on the binder, but then again, I'm a big strong guy. If my wife or daughter were loading/hauling, they'd go with the rachet for sure.

My two cents.

ron

 

[MadDog]

Thanks, Ortrhrs, Keeney and Ronr for educating me about load binders. I'm not exactly an Arnold Schwartzenegger, but I think I could handle a lever load binder and it doesn't sound like it makes much difference when securing a tractor.

 

[hudr]

I grew up in the Flat bed freight business. Dad has been an Owner/operator for my whole life. I don't remember ever chaining down a load that we DIDN'T use a "cheater" on the lever binders. How ever many chains you used on a load, you bound every other one to the opposite side of the trailer. you puled it down by hand first to get the slack out, then used the cheater to get that last notch. I never heard any stories about a chain breaking. And the chain we still use around the ranch is the mostly the same chain he started out with in the late 50's trucking.
But yes, when we hauled rubber tired vehicles, we always liked to see the tires "squish" a little when we bound them. One thing a lot of people don't think to do is get the "twist" out of their chains when they tighten them. I have seen chains loosen up some as the twist comes out of them after binding. not trying to agitate, just my .02

 

[QRTRHRS]

You don't have to use a "cheater" bar to crank down like there is no tomorrow. As I suggested though, if you need that little bit extra, a piece of pipe sure makes it easy.

As hudr suggested, a "cheater" is pretty much a standard for heavy hauling. I only mean to let people know the options with the reminder to keep safety in mind. My bigger tractor calls for some 800 foot pounds of torque on some of the wheel bolts. Try that without some help.

I never, repeat never, touch a chain, binder or strap without decent leather gloves on by the way. I have blackened and lost some fingernails but I still have all my digits.

 

[hudr]

Yes, the cheater is mainly a fatigue (work smarter, not harder) thing. The extra leverage is helpful when you have several chains to bind and then are expected to drive that load somewhere far away. I didn't mean to suggest to bind it tight, then get a longer pipe to bind some more. Everything has a breaking point.
And as QRTRHRS stated: the gloves would be a given what with all the pinch, bang and mash points involved in working with lots of metal that has been put in a bind. They can cause you to brush up on your sailor speak. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Also, some rubber bungees are usefull for putting some pressure on the lever to keep them from bouncing loose.

 

[rk246]

Just remember the safety glasses when you break out the bungees, they do a lot of damage to eyes when they snap loose...