Proper way to bind tractor onto trailer?

[cp1969]

Maybe I'm going about this all wrong, but I only use two chains and one binder.

I use clevises, one through the frame at the front and one through the drawbar, then I run the first chain through the clevis on the front making sure that the stake pockets through which it passes are well in front of the front wheels and take up as much of the slack in this chain as possible. Then I run the second chain through the clevis on the drawbar and hook it to stake pockets well behind the tractor. Then I put the binder on the aft chain. Tightening it tightens both chains.

Nobody mentioned whether they set brakes, put it gear, etc. I usually do both.

 

[N80]

I've only towed twice and used one chain up front around the axles and one in the rear through the drawbar socket. One chain binder in front, one in back. I guess I can see where a chain on each corner is better, but is the two chain method flat wrong?

 

[kevincook]

HarleyBob,

I have the same tractor as you. I attach two chains to a Very Large shackle on the rear drawbar. I then actually drive forward and tighten those chains. I have found that this works very well, better than the chain binders actually.

For the front I feed the chains over the top of the bottom loader support. The paint gets banged up but I figure that is easier to replace than a tractor that falls off the trailer. I use binders on the front chains only. Make sure the tails of the chains have as little slack in them as possible and that they are also hooked to the trailer in case there is a failure of the binder.

One last thing. Buy GOOD chain and binders. I won't use anything made in China for this. The transport chain that is sold at my tractor dealer is still pretty reasonably priced and I know it meets the standards. I think it is grade 70 and has a nice gold coating that prevents any rust so far.

I also have a bunch of high quality transport straps that I use for lots of things but never my tractor.

Good Luck,
Kevin

 

[Highbeam]

"From what your are describing in the quote below.. the chains should not be hooked to itself but to the stake pocket? Is a binder used only in the middle to take up slack or is it to be used as one end and attached to D ring or Stake pocket?"

The binder goes in the middle to take up slack, it took me a while to figure out what to do with a 14' chain that only needed to be 4 feet long. You end up with a big "U" of slack chain to wrap around and around the binder so that it doesn't dangle off the side of the trailer. The chain is hooked back onto itself at the tractor end and to the stake pockets on the trailer end. I also do not use a clevis or any other single piece on the tractor that can fail and leave the tractor unsecure.

Four chains and binders means any one of them, a stake pocket, or the tractor attachment point can break and the load will be secure. I never could get by with 4 chains and two binders since if the tractor wasn't perfectly centered one chain would always have more slack. After you tighten all 4 binders down it is a very secure load. Plus I get pretty particular about where the tractor sits on the deck so I like to park it and secure it right there.

Also, I prefer the ratchet binders way more than the over center kind called boomers by some. It is very simple and clean to take up the right amount of tension on the chains. and the ratchets can't loosen up.

I would like some stout D-rings but really the stake pockets seem to do the job well and I drop the hook through from above and then hook from the outside to the top of the pocket.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

A few years back, I bought a new trailer. At that point, I decided to get pro-active in "getting legal" as far as hauling equipment. No more old rusty chains, no more hoping the D.O.T. would like the way I was doing things. I decided to learn the laws pertaining to hauling what I have to haul, then seeking out a Kentucky State Police "Motor Vehicle Enforcment" Officer for his opinion.

What I've learned;

You will get 1000 different interpretations on the laws. Only one or two really matter. (D.O.T. cop and/or judge) Here's what they tell me. If you are hauling a wheeled vehicle THAT WEIGHS OVER 10,000 LBS, USE 4 CHAINS, 4 BINDERS. Also, if that "wheeled vehicle" has an attached implement, OR AN ATTACHED LOADER, they ALSO need SEPERATE chains. If that "wheeled vehicle is under 10,000, TWO chains will do the trick. They need to be properly rated. (Keep in mind, the chains for the loader, and rear mounted implements)

The chains, no matter how many, need to pull forward and to the rear, not allowing any lateral movement. They also need to pull side to side. (45 degree angles from the 4 corners....)

There's OUR interpretation of the written laws, then there's the friendly local D.O.T. Officers interpretation. The cold hard reality is, his is the only opinion that really matters when you're pulled over along a busy interstate. They seem to appreciate you (or me) being interested in following the law. I'd suggest giving them a call, or paying them a visit. Get their take on things. Then, once you've got your tractor loaded and chained down, give them a call. Have an officer stop by your place and take a look at your set-up. It's better to have their critique done in the drive than along that busy interstate.

Another recomendation is to "go over-kill". Get heavier chains than you HAVE to have. Get better load binders than the law requires. Use more chains. Have a heavier trailer with better tires than you absolutely have to have. Make sure your hitch is adaquate. If you appear "MORE THAN SAFE", you might just avoid that "white glove inspection" that usually turns up something wrong. (D.O.T. Officers are "inspectors". In order to justify their very existance, they need to find things wrong when they stop someone)

The law is the law. You can always fight what you percieve as an "un-just citation". It's much better in the grand sceme of things to AVOID GETTING THAT CITATION in the first place.

So, my humble opinion is, get the D.O.T. involved. (Or whatever the local/state vehicle enforcement organization in your area is called....) Let them suggest to you what it takes to maintain harmony.

 

[GeneD14]

Farmwith junk; you have said it well.

I also cross the chains to help keep the load centered. See picture.

 

[TimP]

Thank you everyone for their great suggestions and pictures.

Now... may I ask what the trailer capacity is for "your" trailer and how heavy is your set-up.

I want to get a trailer and have some extra capacity as a safety factor. I have a Kubota B2150 and will usually have a loader at least on the tractor.

Thanks, Tim

 

[tlbuser]

I'd suggest giving them a call, or paying them a visit. Get their take on things. Then, once you've got your tractor loaded and chained down, give them a call. Have an officer stop by your place and take a look at your set-up. It's better to have their critique done in the drive than along that busy interstate.
If you appear "MORE THAN SAFE", you might just avoid that "white glove inspection" that usually turns up something wrong. (D.O.T. Officers are "inspectors". In order to justify their very existance, they need to find things wrong when they stop someone)

AVOID GETTING THAT CITATION in the first place.

Best advice available

 

[tlbuser]

Ummm, that's not technically legal either.

 

[RonR]

I think you will get as many interpretations as there are people posting.

You want to be safe and you don't want to look like a rolling accident waiting to happen going down the road!

For my small Bota, I use two chains (grade 70 that don't get used for ANYTHING else) and one over center binder. I run the chains through a clevis on the front and rear, crossing the chain, and attaching the binder in the front. Excess chain wraps the binder.

I have a rachet binder, but its too slow IMHO. If I were towing cross country, I'd use it, but not for short hauls.

Ron