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jedjoe
Silver Member
I like the wood frame set up you made. Nice job!
Posthole Digger PTO-driven post hole auger suggestions
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Chilly807
Elite Member
Funny you asked for pictures, I was outside this afternoon moving the auger to a new spot for the winter. Unless it REALLY rains tomorrow, I should be able to get some pics of the hanger. My total cost was two pieces of pressure treated 4x4, a few short pieces of PT decking, and a few screws. The old hanger was even cheaper, I laminated two pieces of 2x4 together.
The dam* things are like wrestling with a 300 lb steel octopus unless you have some way to support them.
Sean
The dam* things are like wrestling with a 300 lb steel octopus unless you have some way to support them.
Sean
Chilly807
Elite Member
Pics as requested. You can decide whether or not you want the auger tip to touch the ground when you cut the posts to length. I cut two inches off one 8-footer, the other is full length. 3 feet plus in the ground, my post height is 58 inches, and the auger is just clear of the ground.
You'll want to tamp the posts in place as you fill the holes to firm them up, or add concrete for a more permanent job.
It works well for me, a one-armed man with a runny nose could load the PHD with this setup. Credit goes to Gary (mountainviewranch) for the idea, I just copied what he had.
The auger tip clears the ground by about 12 inches on my 3400, I think it's a 42 inch auger on the Kubota digger. The PHD is probably 15-20 years old, it got a fresh coat of paint and an overhaul when I got it.
Sean
You'll want to tamp the posts in place as you fill the holes to firm them up, or add concrete for a more permanent job.
It works well for me, a one-armed man with a runny nose could load the PHD with this setup. Credit goes to Gary (mountainviewranch) for the idea, I just copied what he had.
The auger tip clears the ground by about 12 inches on my 3400, I think it's a 42 inch auger on the Kubota digger. The PHD is probably 15-20 years old, it got a fresh coat of paint and an overhaul when I got it.
Sean
Professor Marvel
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I borrowed a Danuser PHD to use on my Ford 5000 a few years ago. The friend I borrowed it from told me to just dig a hole about halfway down the auger and disconnect it and leave it in the hole. That worked fine for me.
Chilly807
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whistlepig
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This is the way my neighbor parks his.
MtnViewRanch
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Hey, Sean glad that the PHD stand worked out for you, looks good. Just like you have said, with this stand it is pretty easy to hook up your PHD. Anyone that has problems hooking up their PHD needs something of this type. Unless your digging 1 very small hole, it is faster to install the PHD, dig the hole and take it back off than it is to spend 15 minutes to hand dig a hole. Anything more and your just saving time and a backache. :cool2:
As far as down pressure, I have some ground that is so hard that my auger would not dig down much more than 8"-12". Pour water in the hole and maybe if the water soaked in you would be able to get the hole dug the next day. With a down pressure kit that multi day hole now takes right about 90 seconds.:thumbsup: Believe me or not, :confused3: just saying how it is with conditions that I have.
Here is a pic of my auger with the down pressure hydraulic on it hanging on my stand. Oh and my name is not Gary.
:laughing:Attachments
Chilly807
Elite Member
Sorry about that Brian, for some reason I had "Gary" in my mind...
Sean
Sean
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To me there is not much difference in the PHD itself, but the augers can be quite different.
Case in point is my neighbor was putting in a deck a few years back and we hitched my tractor up to his Spedco PHD. We tried both is 9" and 12" auger and even with 2 200# guys, one on each lower lift arm of my tractor, it would not dig. It was actually smoking in the clay soil.
I went home and got my 40 year old Ford PHD and put on my 9" auger. It has replaceable bear claw or whatever they are called. Simply some 3/8" stock that bolts on in 2 pieces that are sharpened and stick out a few inches. It dug all 24 holes with no issues at all. Did not even need the other guys weight on the PHD.
So look at the augers available for whatever you buy. I had no clue when I bought mine used for $100 but now I realize I got a great implement. Mine also has a place where you can put a piece of pipe on the gear box for a helper to control the torque and keep the auger strait which is real handy.
Chris
Case in point is my neighbor was putting in a deck a few years back and we hitched my tractor up to his Spedco PHD. We tried both is 9" and 12" auger and even with 2 200# guys, one on each lower lift arm of my tractor, it would not dig. It was actually smoking in the clay soil.
I went home and got my 40 year old Ford PHD and put on my 9" auger. It has replaceable bear claw or whatever they are called. Simply some 3/8" stock that bolts on in 2 pieces that are sharpened and stick out a few inches. It dug all 24 holes with no issues at all. Did not even need the other guys weight on the PHD.
So look at the augers available for whatever you buy. I had no clue when I bought mine used for $100 but now I realize I got a great implement. Mine also has a place where you can put a piece of pipe on the gear box for a helper to control the torque and keep the auger strait which is real handy.
Chris
MtnViewRanch
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Pengo teeth are the way to go, all 6 of my Land Pride augers have them. :thumbsup: I would think that about any industrial auger teeth would work though.
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jedjoe
Silver Member
Sean and Brian,
Since I don't yet have a PHD, can I ask a dumb question? How do you get your PHD up and over that horizontal support? I'm trying to imagine doing that without a helper...Please explain, as the actual stand looks like simplicity itself. Thanks!
Since I don't yet have a PHD, can I ask a dumb question? How do you get your PHD up and over that horizontal support? I'm trying to imagine doing that without a helper...Please explain, as the actual stand looks like simplicity itself. Thanks!
Chilly807
Elite Member
No problem.. you slide the horizontal bar out of place (it's only resting on top of the posts) then back the tractor with PHD into place. Put the crossbar back on top of the posts, lower the 3ph until the boom on the PHD contacts the crossbar and unhook everything. The weight of the PHD holds the crossbar firmly in place.
Sean
Sean
MtnViewRanch
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jedjoe
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Chilly807
Elite Member
The hydraulic digger is ideal in some respects.
A: it has down pressure due to being bucket mounted.
B: it is reversible
C: it's easier to place the holes precisely where you want them
Downsides:
A: be careful not to twist the loader arms, a center-line attachment point is best.
B: be sure you have enough hydraulic flow to run it properly. Most smaller tractors may not.
I have no experience with hydraulic diggers in general, and the Danuser in particular, just speculation on my part.
Sean
A: it has down pressure due to being bucket mounted.
B: it is reversible
C: it's easier to place the holes precisely where you want them
Downsides:
A: be careful not to twist the loader arms, a center-line attachment point is best.
B: be sure you have enough hydraulic flow to run it properly. Most smaller tractors may not.
I have no experience with hydraulic diggers in general, and the Danuser in particular, just speculation on my part.
Sean
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jedjoe
Silver Member
When you say "center-line attachment", do you mean the best place for attachment would be in the center of the bucket, directly between the two loader arms? The Danuser website shows the device mounted on the side of the bucket, so I just want to be sure I understand what you mean.
chumly2071
Bronze Member
They are usually mounted to the side of the bucket for operator visibility.
MtnViewRanch
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A lot of people seem to think that they would like them. Not me, the pto units have more power, are easier to see what your doing IMO. A 3pt PHD is maybe 5-6 feet away and a hydraulic auger is waaaay out there mounted on the side of your bucket or in the middle as it should be. Just how good can you see out in front of your tractor at ground level? No thanks, I would keep looking for a 3pt PHD. Now there are hydraulic 3 pt PHD, and if you lived where you had to deal with a lot of rocks or roots, that would be the way to go IMO.
Do all 3 of you guys have remotes? If not, the hydraulic route may not be the way to go anyway. Just some more things to ponder.
Depends what else you want/need to do with the same end of the tractor that day.
SOMETIMES drilling holes discovers the need for a back-hoe operation to get the big nasty boulders out (they're on 10ft centers around here).
So it could be nice to have a hoe and PHD on at the same time.
A hoe mount for a hydraulic unit could be nice too - in some cases.
Do you want/need the front bucket for clean up after drilling ?
All iffy/maybe.
SOMETIMES drilling holes discovers the need for a back-hoe operation to get the big nasty boulders out (they're on 10ft centers around here).
So it could be nice to have a hoe and PHD on at the same time.
A hoe mount for a hydraulic unit could be nice too - in some cases.
Do you want/need the front bucket for clean up after drilling ?
All iffy/maybe.
Chilly807
Elite Member
I'd prefer to have the auger centered between the loader arms, any excess loading wouldn't tend to twist the loader.
I find my neck gets stiff running the PTO digger after a while.
A hydro unit for the 3 pt would be sweet as well, having reverse is a VERY GOOD THING, particularly for smaller tractors.
One thing to consider with the bucket mount, is that the size of the loader defines how easily it will twist. A 100 hp tractor FEL won't be bothered by a bucket mounted PHD, a 30 hp might be. My 2 cents on the situation only.
Sean
I find my neck gets stiff running the PTO digger after a while.
A hydro unit for the 3 pt would be sweet as well, having reverse is a VERY GOOD THING, particularly for smaller tractors.
One thing to consider with the bucket mount, is that the size of the loader defines how easily it will twist. A 100 hp tractor FEL won't be bothered by a bucket mounted PHD, a 30 hp might be. My 2 cents on the situation only.
Sean
