PTO Log Splitter Project
- Thread starter MadDog
- Start date
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D80
Member
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2006
- Messages
- 31
- Location
- Northwest Ohio
- Tractor
- Massey 175 Perkins diesel, (2) Oliver 1850 Perkins diesel, International model
I use the mdsolids program to calculate metal beams and columns. You can download it from www.mdsolids.com. It is free to try for 30 days.
D80
D80
cp:; I had misunderstood your earlier post about the strongest direction. If the beam is strongest with flanges on top and bottom (rather than on the verticals) then I can't see that I can have much to worry about as far as flex goes.
BTW, got the two remaining gussets welded, the fact plates cut and one of them welded. Will weld the other tonight. then, on to cutting steel for the anchors and push plate asemblies.
BTW, got the two remaining gussets welded, the fact plates cut and one of them welded. Will weld the other tonight. then, on to cutting steel for the anchors and push plate asemblies.
Jagmandave
Veteran Member
How about some pics, madDog?
Finally got off my @$_)$& and took some pics while I was welding up the second end plate this morning. Here's the link for a shot of the splitter beam, with gussets and first end plate welded:
splitter
As you can see, I first built the dolly that the splitter will live on when not connected to the tractor. This was because the beam alone weighs 348# and, when everything is installed on it and hydraulic tank filled, will weigh something over 800#. It is much easier to maneuver on the dolly.
Remaining photos follow.
splitter
As you can see, I first built the dolly that the splitter will live on when not connected to the tractor. This was because the beam alone weighs 348# and, when everything is installed on it and hydraulic tank filled, will weigh something over 800#. It is much easier to maneuver on the dolly.
Remaining photos follow.
#4: Here's the endplate tack-welded:
tack welding
OK, I know. I am still learning to weld. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif But trust me; these welds are better than the first ones I did. By the time I get to the critical welds (cylinder and rod anchors), hopefully I will know what I'm doing. At least I have learned how to position the tip and wire so that I get a nice crackling sound and can leave a bead without making the surrounding area so heaped with spatter that it looks like the craters of the moon. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
tack welding
OK, I know. I am still learning to weld. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif But trust me; these welds are better than the first ones I did. By the time I get to the critical welds (cylinder and rod anchors), hopefully I will know what I'm doing. At least I have learned how to position the tip and wire so that I get a nice crackling sound and can leave a bead without making the surrounding area so heaped with spatter that it looks like the craters of the moon. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
#5: Wedge plate welded up:
welded endplate
I turned the beam on its side to weld the bottom in vertical position, since I'm no good at all yet at welding from underneath.
Tonight, perhaps, I'll start cutting the pieces for the anchors and ram pushplate assembly. I wanted extra strength on the anchors, so I bought a cylinder with cross tubes rather than tie rod: Here's the link.
bailey's cylinder
1 1/2" rod goes through the anchors and cross tubes.
This way, I will have 1" plate anchors at each end of the cross tubes on both the cylinder and rod ends, welded to 3/4"plate (2x6) welded to the top flange (for cylinder) and slide plate (ram). I figure with 14" of fillet welds on each plate and about 12" on each anchor (2 anchors and plates to each cross tube) that should be an awful lot of holding power. It had better be. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
welded endplate
I turned the beam on its side to weld the bottom in vertical position, since I'm no good at all yet at welding from underneath.
Tonight, perhaps, I'll start cutting the pieces for the anchors and ram pushplate assembly. I wanted extra strength on the anchors, so I bought a cylinder with cross tubes rather than tie rod: Here's the link.
bailey's cylinder
1 1/2" rod goes through the anchors and cross tubes.
This way, I will have 1" plate anchors at each end of the cross tubes on both the cylinder and rod ends, welded to 3/4"plate (2x6) welded to the top flange (for cylinder) and slide plate (ram). I figure with 14" of fillet welds on each plate and about 12" on each anchor (2 anchors and plates to each cross tube) that should be an awful lot of holding power. It had better be. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
jimmysisson
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2005
- Messages
- 2,358
- Location
- W.Mass
- Tractor
- 1993 NH 2120 (the best), 1974 MF 135 (sold, but solid), 1947 Farmall A (bought, sold, bought back, sold again), 1956 MH50 lbt (sold, in 1980, darn it)
Mad - you will NOT have any flex in that beam! Wow! Thanks for the pix. Jim
IanM
Member
Mad,
Thanks for posting the photos. Looks good and I agree--no flex for sure. Great dolly by the way.
Ian
Thanks for posting the photos. Looks good and I agree--no flex for sure. Great dolly by the way.
Ian
I made a little more progress on Sunday; got the base plate for the cylinder anchor cut and the slide plate, spacers and retaining plates for the ram.
Because the beam flange is 3/4" thick, I am using two spacer bars on each side between the base plate and retaining plate; one set of 1/2" and one of 3/8". The whole assembly will be held together with 10 (5 on each side /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif ) sets of 3/8" hex bolts, lock washers and nuts.
The only challenging part of this assembly is getting the holes lined up on each of the four plates that the bolts go through. The alignment has to be dead on since there is no play between the holes and bolts. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif I quickly decided that measuring, no matter how careful, would not be sufficiently precise because even if I could locate the holes in both directions to the required tolerance (which, I would guess, must be less than 1/128" in order to get the bolts through) I couldn't locate the drill press bit that precisely.
What I did, instead, was to lay out the holes as precisely as I could on the slide plate and then drill them. Following that, I lined up and clamped a set of spacer bars on the slide plate and then used it as a template to start each of the holes. I then unclamped and finished drilling the holes and they line up perfectly. Tonight I will repeat the process with the second set of spacer bars and then with the retaining bars that go under the flange.
Once this assembly is complete and checked for free travel on the flange, I will then cut the cylinder and rod anchor blocks and weld them to the base and slide plates. Again, in order to be sure that I get correct allignment, I plan to actually mount the cylinder and rod with their pins on them, tack weld the anchors, then remove the pins and cylinders prior to finish welding.
I'll take a couple of pics when the slide assembly is complete.
Because the beam flange is 3/4" thick, I am using two spacer bars on each side between the base plate and retaining plate; one set of 1/2" and one of 3/8". The whole assembly will be held together with 10 (5 on each side /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif ) sets of 3/8" hex bolts, lock washers and nuts.
The only challenging part of this assembly is getting the holes lined up on each of the four plates that the bolts go through. The alignment has to be dead on since there is no play between the holes and bolts. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif I quickly decided that measuring, no matter how careful, would not be sufficiently precise because even if I could locate the holes in both directions to the required tolerance (which, I would guess, must be less than 1/128" in order to get the bolts through) I couldn't locate the drill press bit that precisely.
What I did, instead, was to lay out the holes as precisely as I could on the slide plate and then drill them. Following that, I lined up and clamped a set of spacer bars on the slide plate and then used it as a template to start each of the holes. I then unclamped and finished drilling the holes and they line up perfectly. Tonight I will repeat the process with the second set of spacer bars and then with the retaining bars that go under the flange.
Once this assembly is complete and checked for free travel on the flange, I will then cut the cylinder and rod anchor blocks and weld them to the base and slide plates. Again, in order to be sure that I get correct allignment, I plan to actually mount the cylinder and rod with their pins on them, tack weld the anchors, then remove the pins and cylinders prior to finish welding.
I'll take a couple of pics when the slide assembly is complete.
JimR
Elite Member
Are you sure you are only going to be splitting wood witht hat splitter? That thing is strong enough to bend flat steel plate into corner bracing.
Well, I might also split a gut laughing, but do I need an 8x8 beam for that? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Of course, I realize that it's probably over-designed for splitting 8" white pine but....... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Seriously, for a materials cost of about what a mid-line Timberwolf would run, I'm building a machine that would cost $6,000 or more.
...don't ask me why ... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif My wife already asked and I didn't have what she considered an adequate answer. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Of course, I realize that it's probably over-designed for splitting 8" white pine but....... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Seriously, for a materials cost of about what a mid-line Timberwolf would run, I'm building a machine that would cost $6,000 or more.
...don't ask me why ... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif My wife already asked and I didn't have what she considered an adequate answer. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
bobodu
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2004
- Messages
- 960
- Location
- Whitley County,In.EIEIO
- Tractor
- Farmnought.Gravely Model L,Gravely Model LI,1941 Clinton two wheeler
Forget the hydraulics....just whack the pine with that beam... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
