PTO Pump driven with Jackshaft

[Mechanos]

...The problem with 5v or 8v is achieving the right ratio with the shaft sizes I am dealing with. This is also a problem with chain.

Adding a full compliment (up to 10), of 3v's is not cheap either. That would only yeild 28.8-~30 HP.....similar to the #80 chain.

This engine has a 2" dia. output shaft. That limits the selection of the small pulley due to it needing a 2" bore. This 2" shaft requirement causes the sprocket/sheave, in the higher HP stuff, to become larger. The bigger the driver ....the bigger the driven needs to be to get the ratio. The smallest #80 I could locate is 13 teeth, and A 36 tooth or larger #80 or #100 or whatever, is not cheap although I did find one in #80 with 38 teeth and the 1-3/8" bore that will fit the 1-3/8" PTO shaft.

A 10 groove 3v in 10.6" is also hard to find cheap...

Is there any reason why you can't obtain your reduction using multiple steps instead of trying to do it all in one step? You could run a 2:1 reduction to an intermediate shaft that drives a 1.5:1 reduction to final drive at the pump. That would give you the 3:1 reduction you're looking for at the pump and might be easier to find those ratios in the sizes you need. Just throwing out another option.

 

[N8ghz]

Thanks for the idea, I had not considered that.

Upon pondering it now, wouldn't it be a "chain is only as strong as it's weakest link" type of thing???????

I am talking belts...but the old saying uses 'chain'.....ha-ha.

 

[J_J]

He needs a 5.5 reduction to go from a max engine speed of 3000 rpm to a PTO rpm of 540 rpm. The engine HP is about 65.

I believe I would find a gearbox with a gear ratio of
5 : 1 to a 6 : 1 ratio, and two coupler sets.

 

[N8ghz]

I do NOT need those ratios. I do not need 65HP @ 3000 RPM. I do not want to run the engine above 1800.....preferably even lower.
3:1 or ~3:1 gives PTO shaft 600 or less.

This engine yeilds 42HP @ 1600, which is plenty and makes PTO about 528 rpm.

 

[N8ghz]

JJ....please share with me and others, your thoughts on this method....I think it is what the Dr. ordered?

I imagine you have done this in a past life?



‪Turbo Encabulator‬‏ - YouTube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fjcJp_Nwvk&feature=related





All in fun, bud, I know you have been trying to help.

Hope you take it without pain?

 

[slowzuki]

Wow what a pile of noise early in the thread. To transmit more power via belt, you need larger sheaves to have higher belt speeds. I built a sawmill with a 10 hp electric drive and bought the cheapest sheaves I could to get the ratio. No good, belts slipped and burned, had to double the diameter and buy the expensive sheaves.

The kind of power you need to move may mean gearbox. Around here guys just buy old 4 speed manual truck transmissions and have a short driveshaft to the input shaft and the old driveshaft out the other side. This would let you run at a higher speed on your pump too if you wanted more speed.

 

[J_J]

The belt on my Case trencher is about 1 1/2 in wide with cogs. It drives all pumps and chain drive. The engine is a 4 cyl Wisconsin. It can be done, but you can bet it won't be cheap.

The belt looks like a super charger belt, that is used to turn the blower/super charger.

 

[N8ghz]

Supercharger belt...yea...Aka: Gilmer drive...known in the industrial world as a timng belt.

I am working on the other items now that I know the weak point in the pump drive,...and when I get to it, I will try the chain... 13t into 38t RC-80 single.

The flat cogged belts on these super-bikes look good too...similar to timing-belts or blower belts.

The problem with those is machining hubs for my shaft sizes. I may look into that after the RC-80 chain fails or maybe it'll work, and then I won't?

I like the belts because they don't rust or need lubed and are quieter.

A gearbox would also be maintenance-free and silent.

We'll see, as I will not be denied....perserverance !!!