PTO Thingamajig. Any body know what it is?

Industrial Toys · May 25, 2017

My PTO is electrically (over hydraulic) engaged, so I have no control over it, but I think maybe it has some provision for soft start. It would have to.

I was just looking at the tractor manual. Apparently the PTO must come up to 100 RPM in 20 seconds or it will shut off. At least I have not encountered this problem and it also tells me that Deere seems to have taken high inertia loads into consideration in the design.

N80 · May 25, 2017

Is it just a button or a switch?

Industrial Toys · May 25, 2017

It's a knob you pull up and twist to turn on and just hit it to turn off.

I found the JD 6200 Sales Brochure. Regarding the PTO:

Multi disk clutch, oil cooled and modulated to provide smooth, shock free engagement. If the engineers got this right, I may be safe as far as damaging the tractor. It doesn't say anything about a brake, and I'm guessing if it had one, the brochure would have mentioned it. I would be glad if it didn't, especially if I don't have that over-running feature on the outboard clutch.

aczlan · May 25, 2017

To see if you have an overrunning clutch, just disconnect the PTO shaft from the tractor and turn it in both directions. If it clicks/spins easily when you turn it counterclockwise (when looking from the tractor side backwards) and it's hard to turn when you spin it clockwise (looking in the same direction) it has an over-running clutch in it. I would bet dollars to Donuts that it does have one because of the amount of mass in the flywheel assembly. Our baler has around a 100lb in the flywheel assembly and it has a over-running clutch in it.

Aaron Z

Industrial Toys · May 26, 2017

It's all a bit of a mess. The FUN of buying something used.

I don't know if you can see it in the picture. All the bolts have suffered some kind of contact, being either bent or ground off. There is a metal ID tag in behind, and it too has been mostly obliterated. VERY STRANGE as nothing should contact any of these areas. If equipment could talk.

I would like to remove the clutch from the keyed input shaft, but those two bolts are broken off flush as well. Not allen head set screws.

What's the most successful approach? I was thinking small drill bit, then larger and an EZ out. I'm afraid of buggering the threads if I'm not centered. It's maybe only 3/8 or 5/16. What about heat? It's a lot of mass to heat up, although I don't see anything I could really hurt.

I always see the amateurs (like me) applying lots of various sprays and such. Funny, the experts never seem to reach for such stuff.

ericm979 · May 26, 2017

They do you just don't see it.

I call EZ-out EX-break. They're very brittle, especially in the smaller sizes. If you snap one off in a fastener your options are limited.

Other ways to remove stuck fasteners:
-use a dremel too or similar to grind a slot in the top for a flat head screwdriver.
-grind pockets for a drift, which you then hit with a hammer to rotate the fastener.
-weld a nut or bolt on to it.

If you drill it, grind a flat in the center and centerpunch it. A center drill to start the hole might be a good idea. Left handed drill bits are useful for drilling out fasteners- sometimes they loosen the fastener.

Industrial Toys · May 26, 2017

Thanks.

Well got a 3/16 or so hole drilled in one. A high quality reverse drill type EZ did not work. A junkie spiral type EZ Out one gave me very good purchase until it spun out. The bolt is in there tight.

Now, I don't know about applying heat. That's in maybe a 3" collar.

Industrial Toys · May 26, 2017

I feel so blessed to know such talented people. A friend suggests welding on a washer, with a small enough hole so as not to weld onto the collar. Then weld on a nut, to the washer. Let it cool and try it.

I can't wait to try that.