Pull-Back collar on PTO shaft

[pmsmechanic]

What I did was replace the spring on the collar with a lighter tension one. You remove the clip holding the collar on and remove the collar to get at the spring. Then either cut a bit if the spring off or replace it with a lighter one. I had a lighter one in my box of springs so that's what I did. That made a world of difference in the frustration of attaching the PTO shaft.

I imagine the spring clip idea is just a hole drilled into the u-joint when the collar is pulled back. Pull back the collar insert the pin and attach. Simple quick and easy. You wouldn't even need a dedicated spring clip as three points and attachments already use them on the pins.

The suggestion to line up the spines first and then pull back the collar is also a good one. I thought everybody already did that so I wouldn't have thought to make that suggestion.

 

[gstrom99]

I had the unfortunate job of getting the stuck collar-type PTO off the son-in-law's tractor and had to destroy it to get it off. I replaced the collar type end with a pin type. Easy (kinda). Bought the end at TSC. I (also) don't like the collar type ends...

 

[pmsmechanic]

I had the unfortunate job of getting the stuck collar-type PTO off the son-in-law's tractor and had to destroy it to get it off. I replaced the collar type end with a pin type. Easy (kinda). Bought the end at TSC. I (also) don't like the collar type ends...

Sometimes all that happens is the splines get worn and get a notch in them. If you force (turn) the PTO back against the direction of normal rotation, sometimes that is enough for the splines to line up again. Then you can pull it off. Other times you need to do as you did.

 

[Cycledude]

My new snowblower uses that type of connector, I only had To hook it up once so far and it seems to make a Simple job a little more difficult than the old push pin deal that I’m used to. I will be testing some of the interesting tips given in this thread.

 

[Jack42]

Thanks to all for the suggestions. I'm going to replace the 'pull-backs' with the twist-type. They look like they run $30-40$ per coupler and I need two. A cheap price for the improvement I expect to get. With arthritis, the big problem was using finger tips - there's no strength left there and they kind of bend in some odd directions.
But with the twist collar I can use my entire hand. Plenty of strength left there.
Again, thanks.

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

I have had a couple of the pull back collar type that were difficult..

One on a JD mid mower, another on a new PHD...
When I had time, I took them apart and scraped what looked like chunky black paint off every surface I could.. The inside of the splined area was OK.. The sleeve, spring, balls and outside looked as they had been dipped in this thick bad paint..

It was a real pain in the neck and time consuming to scrape the paint off the spring and ball surfaces with a sheet rock knife blade.. When done and reassembled, a dripping wet coat of silicone spray makes it all move very easy now..

My 5 cents of experience...

 

[Wagtail]

My gosh. Does that really work? I’m so stupid!

MoKelly

Yep. And it works for both types, pin or collar, especially when the implement is raised so that the shaft is perpendicular/level with the PTO.

Raising the implement allows you to rotate the shaft easily to line up with the splines.

 

[MoKelly]

Yep. And it works for both types, pin or collar, especially when the implement is raised so that the shaft is perpendicular/level with the PTO.

Raising the implement allows you to rotate the shaft easily to line up with the splines.

Thanks. I’m going to try next time I swap mower for brush hog.

MoKelly

 

[RalphVa]

Hi,
New member here with arthritis in hands. I just spent several hours kissing, cursing and aching, trying to get a very well lubricated driveshaft onto the Deere's spline. Damn thing kept insisting I buy it dinner first!
Short version, My hands (at 74) are no longer strong enough to Hold back the collar to release the ball bearings while pushing the shaft forward. I can still do the rods ok, and the twister ok, but the pull back defeats me.
Finally got it on with second person tapping on the collar as I pulled back.

Question: does anyone make a strong enough clip to hold the collar back until mounted?
or
is it easy to replace the pull back collar with a rod collar? or a twist collar?

Thanks

Both the bush hog and wood chipper have bush button PTO ends at the tractor. MUCH better.

 

[mcfarmall]

You know the reason why everyone is going to the collar style versus the old push pin style don't you? Your panties are less likely to get caught up in the collar whereas the pin might hook into a hole in the lace and pull you in to your certain death. The manufacturers are only looking out for your safety.

Also, if you can't get the PTO shaft hooked up to the tractor it makes running a brush cutter even MORE safe!

 

[Roy Najecki]

Hi,
New member here with arthritis in hands. I just spent several hours kissing, cursing and aching, trying to get a very well lubricated driveshaft onto the Deere's spline. Damn thing kept insisting I buy it dinner first!
Short version, My hands (at 74) are no longer strong enough to Hold back the collar to release the ball bearings while pushing the shaft forward. I can still do the rods ok, and the twister ok, but the pull back defeats me.
Finally got it on with second person tapping on the collar as I pulled back.

Question: does anyone make a strong enough clip to hold the collar back until mounted?
or
is it easy to replace the pull back collar with a rod collar? or a twist collar?

Thanks

I have the same problem with my pull back collar and this is how I solved it. I put the tractor end of the PTO shaft on my workbench and pulled back the collar. I measured the pull-back distance and it was 5/16" from the snap ring to the face of the collar, and the now exposed shaft was 2" diameter. I had a length of 1/4" square aluminum stock (I didn't have any 5/16"), put it into a bench vise, and hammered into a rectangular 'U" with 2" ID. I pulled back the collar, inserted my new aluminum jig, which held the collar back enough that I could slip the PTO shaft onto the tractor spined stub without difficulty. With the PTO shaft now on the stub I pushed the legs of my jig off the collar and voila, the collar closed.

I wanted to also have the option of using the hitch pin method that Doneill127 pictured. So with the PTO shaft back on the workbench I put on my aluminum U jig and then inserted two small 1/16" thick brass shims (the hourglass shaped piece in the photo). That pulled the collar back to the maximum 5/16". I then drilled two holes for the hitch pins.

I often have difficulty lining up the tractor stub splines with the PTO shaft spines. So using a cold chisel I created a small groove at the edge of PTO shaft coupling in line with the spline. Then I painted each groove with white paint. Now it is easy for me to see when the tractor stub splines are aligned with the PTO shaft spines.

 

[bdhsfz6]

Some of my implements still have the push button spline lock. With those, I use a welding clamp to keep the button pressed while I line up the splines. Much easier on these 79 year old arthritic hands.

I'm working on a similar idea for the collar locks using this clamp:

When I get the chance, I'm going to try heating & bending the tabs to fit the collar mechanism. If that doesn't work, I'll weld on new tabs.

 

[bcp]

See post 19. Don't touch the latch until after the shaft is on the splines.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/pull-back-collar-on-pto-shaft.435439/post-5950660

Bruce

 

[Hay Dude]

My gosh. Does that really work? I’m so stupid!

MoKelly

Yes it does. I still have Category 6 driveshafts (including John Deere CX-15) I install & remove almost daily. Yes, they are VERY heavy because they also have a CV joint on them. The one on my Krone baler is insanely heavy.
I just start the collar on my PTO stub, just enough to hold it in place without falling off, then with both hands/fingertips, pull back on the collar and then use hands to thrust it on to the stub until it locks.

 

[Rvrrat14]

I’ve seen where the splines on the tractor may need to be dressed with a file…….

 

[Hay Dude]

I’ve seen where the splines on the tractor may need to be dressed with a file…….

AGCO/Massey/Challenger tractors have chamfered PTO splines, making the mounting of the PTO prop shaft much easier.

 

[big bubba]

i deal with the same but finally manage to finally get it attached solo.
if your hands are in that shape, seems to me the best fix would get a buddy to retract collar, while you slip on the collar to shaft.
cheaper than above remedies. plus safer with 2.

 

[Shawn T. W.]

I actually prefer the collar over the pushbutton pin ...

 

[old and tired]

How about the twisting PTO lock? I got all three... but pull back, is what I use the most.

 

[Hay Dude]

Note that the springs and collar “balls” and mechanism will rust if left outside or used in the rain. You should regularly spray lubricant in the collar mechanism.

Another thing to make slipping the prop shaft onto the stub easier is to regularly lubricate the telescoping inner/outer shaft.