Purchased a Uniforest 50E log winch for my Kubota L5030

[Grandad4]

Very... about $300. Time will tell if it's worth the money. I'm old enough and lame enough that if it saves me a few steps, it will be worth it to me.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I use snatch blocks alot but I don't have any self releasing ones. Some days I get a little sick of walking back and forth to re-rig the cable and blocks as I winch in. You may never realize how much effort you are saving since you are starting out with self releasing blocks but in my book it was a smart move on your part.

 

[Modn]

Very... about $300. Time will tell if it's worth the money. I'm old enough and lame enough that if it saves me a few steps, it will be worth it to me.

Ouch!! I will see if it is a "have to have" for me. Sure is a good idea though.

 

[Grandad4]

I use snatch blocks alot but I don't have any self releasing ones. Some days I get a little sick of walking back and forth to re-rig the cable and blocks as I winch in. You may never realize how much effort you are saving since you are starting out with self releasing blocks but in my book it was a smart move on your part.

Thanks for the photos, Gordon. I see you're using a pair of blocks on some of your pulls. I haven't used multiple blocks so far, but expect to for our upcoming project. Do you notice much friction loss with the extra pulleys or is it about the same as a direct pull?

 

[Gordon Gould]

There must be some loss but it certainly is not noticeable.
Sometimes I just use a slider instead of a block if it is a shallow angle and short pull. Wrap a choker around a tree or stump and hook it into a slider on your cable. Its not good for the tree so it's best to pick one you will be cutting. In the picture with the hung fir tree I have a block in the skid road and a slider up near the tree. I just needed to pick up and pull the tree out from behind the stump then I dropped the slider.

 

[slofr8]

I use a self release block and would not be with out. I go into an area and cut the dead or dieing trees almost without regard as to how they will come out. I say almost because I used to log for a living so it's in the back of my mind but I don't obsese over it. With the block I can leave the tractor safely on the trail and hook the block to a good tree and just keep winching from that one spot. It also keeps me from having to winch at an extream angle which could roll a tractor. It really is worth it.
Dan.

 

[crazyal]

I wish I did more logging. A log winch and snatch blocks just looks like the safest way to log. It seams like at least one tree a year is one of those storm damaged trees that's hung up and trying to use the saw to free it is just asking for trouble and a straight pull with a tractor is either very hard or impossible. Even if you could pull it traction usually gives out long before power runs out. I usually just wait them out if I can and let mother nature take them down but even that bothers me.

 

[Baby Grand]

I usually just wait them out if I can and let mother nature take them down but even that bothers me.

I had this situation where the downed tree was damaging a very nice, high value tree that it leaned against, chafing the bark as they moved in high winds.

Presently it's ropes, a pair of double sheaved pulleys and a few snatch blocks to redirect the pull. Takes a lot of time and the winch just looks better and better every time I set up all that gear ...

 

[Pete SkyViewFarm]

I'm getting on this a bit late but, myself, purchased a 40e uniforest winch earlier this year. After reading a lot for months I decided this one was the one to get, good for the large tractor and just over the rated hp on the smaller. I wanted the wider butt plate so I went for the 8800 lb pull. It is a 2012 model and was on eBay, discounted due to sun bleached pull cords while exposed in their yard. Delivery was free. Not owning one previous the first thing to do was read the manual which is poorly written, likely transcribed from Slovakian or ???. The problem with mine was I could not free wheel out the cable so I loosed it up the clutch / brake and hooked to a tree. Apparently the cable bound a bit in the spool, possibly from sitting. Once that was free I followed directions to empty the 220 ft spool and re-spool the cable slowly with a load on it. (10" 30 ft maple). Had it on my 6040 Kubota cab tractor for a week unused except for that 1st pull and decided not to risk damage in the woods so I put it on my ford 1720 (28 hp). In the woods my first pull was 125 feet at 540 PTO on 3, 7-8" birch and scared the bejesus out of me. Real quick! I learned you do not need full 540 (2250 engine). It pulls well at 1600-1800. I'm sure with experience I'll adjust to it uses it different situations, especially when I get into some of the 24" maples and oak out back. I purchased a fixed snatch block after talking with a few people who said the releasing block is nice but you still need to retrieve it. Having 2 would be nice for some pulls but $$. There is a guy in Middleton, NH who sells the QR release for $215. My opinion of the 40e winch so far... is rugged, welds are flawless, extra cable length, saw and can't hook holder and storage for 6-8 chokers. It also has a band brake rather than ratchet type said to a problem.

 

[jimmysisson]

I usually pull at 1,200 rpm. Plenty of time to see obstacles. Wish I had a releasing block, so I like to hear I might not be happy with one!
Jim