Putting on 3PT Implements

[John_Mc]

My tools for hooking up 3 pt hitch implements:

1) a long pry bar or 4 ft 2x4 (for lifting up ends of the implement as needed, or for "scootching" it around to line it up better)
2) a mallet (using your heel to kick something into place is a good way to get a chipped bone or other injury)
3) chuncks of scrap 2x4 and 4x4 (to hold an end of implement up to the proper height, as needed)

Since I got my TC 33D, I haven't had to mess with most of this, since the deluxe 3 pt hitch with all of it's adjustability takes a lot of the hassle out.

One tip: if you don't have a nice hard level surface to set your implements on, putting blocks under key spots before you set it down can make your next hook up MUCH easier. I've had to do this with my box blade during Vermont's mud season, or it rocks forward so far that I can't get the lower 3 pt arms low enough to hook on (then I get to dig out my old tools again...)

Hope some of this helps.

John Mc

 

[TerryinMD]

I agree with keeping the implements on a level spot. If you can't, then use some kind of blocking to get them off of the ground - especiallly the heavier pieces like a rotary cutter, tiller, or boxblade.

Also, prepare yourself mentally for the task at hand!! Being a Navy veteran, I have acquired the proper language skills to meet any difficult task. /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif/w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Terry

 

[crown]

No need to be embarassed, those implements are plenty heavy and contrary at times. Level ground does do wonders. The good thing is it does get easier the more you do it. Bush hogs are the most difficult at least for me, they are 3 grunt implements/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

 

[PTRich]

John Deere has a very good resale value. You could sell it and buy a Power Trac and never have to wory about hooking up a 3 point again. (just kidding(kinda)). Pry bars or 2 by 4s work great. I used to steady the machine buy picking up the front tires with the bucket so I could keep the engine running and adjust the arms as needed. Take your time and don't get frustrated, you will quickly have your own system with a little hands on time under your belt. I always thought it would be nice to hang a brush hog with a couple of ropes to make it easy to move and to keep it off the ground.

PTRich

 

[Darren]

My favorite tool for attaching and disconnecting the lift arms is a plastic 10# sledge hammer. Sometimes just a well placed kick will work, but when it get's down to the nitty gritty that hammer has been worth its weight in gold.

Depending on the implement, you could be hooked up and working in ten or fifteen minutes or still cussing an hour later. I've got a back blade that I'd rather take a beating than attach. Same goes for my winch.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I also have no level pad to unload equipment. My area is gravel and I find a wooden pallet works the best. It keeps the equipment level and off the ground. If you have forks you can also move it around on the pallet. I also find my 4 foot bar to be the best.

 

[theboman]

Don't kick an implement with your toe... It hurts. I know a few words that I chant sometimes, it don't seem to help much but sometimes it makes me feel better especially if I didn't take my own advice on kicking the implement.
Practice. Each time you can hookup a little faster. Ask anybody who may know more than you on any topic since if you look like an idiot without their advice is one thing, but to look like an idiot while using their advice either they'll lend a hand or the advice wasn't much. Been there, done that.

 

[CVHoss]

Rob,
I haven't seen anyone mention this yet, and I'm not even sure if they are available for the 755, but you might check into telescoping lower links. I didn't order mine on my 4400 and after a half dozen implement swaps, had my dealer order them. The difference is like night and day.

Hoss

 

[keeney]

One trick I have learned in putting on and off my ballast block (about 900 lbs) is that the tractor is easier to move than the block.

Even with the parking brake set, there is about a half inch or so that the tractor kind of rocks back and forth if I lean my weight into it (assuming level ground). This is easier than trying the pound the concrete block into place to line up with the pin.

Once I have one side pinned, I get back on the tractor and use it to push or pull the block, twisting it the inch or so it usually needs to go to get the other side lined up.

One thing I have found to avoid - don't try and unmount a heavy attachment on even a slight side slope. On my little JD 4100, there is barely enough clearance between the tires when on level ground. When you set down a heavy attachment on a side-slope, the lift arm is likely too close to the tire to get the arm off of the pin on the down-hill side.


- Rick

 

[Old_Wanker]

Two handy things Ive found are a rubber mallett and putting the implements on dollys. This may not be good for you outside but putting the implements on dollys sure works a treat when you have them on a concrete floor. The other thing no-one has mentioned is a 3pt 'quick hitch'. Depending on your tractor this also may be a good choice.