Putting the R1 vs R4 debate to rest?

[dnw64]

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About 30 years ago I bought a 1963* Wheelhorse garden tractor. 7 HP Kohler and a 36" mower deck. Used it to mow the lawn at my business.

But then we bought an adjoining 10 acres and did a high-grade logging job (which paid for the property). I brought the Wheelhorse home and built a trailer that held 1/4 cord to get out the tops and do some thinning.

It had R1s on it, but that wasn't enough - I was really taxing it hauling 1/4 cord of green firewood...

Somehow I happened to find a matched pair of mounted tires, got some threaded rod, welded some spacers onto the bead area of the rim and bolted them together. Still got stuck a few times, but it was almost like turning it into a MFWD!

*funny - at the time it seemed like an antique. But today, the equivalent would be a 1993, which somehow doesn't really seem that old. I mean, I have kids older than that! And, they're kids!!

 

[spitter]

I built a wood cart with pneumatic tires on it and it had large tires in the back and small in the front . the small ones kept pancakeing under the weight so I added another set . Duals in front . Every time my neighbor comes over and I have the cart out he grabs it and says that's the coolest cart on the planet. I like duals on everything kinda reminds me of my ex wife.:drink:

 

[Edward Romero]

I’m getting a Kubota MX4800DT which has yet to be delivered. I was going to get R4”s than I kept reading the R1”s get better traction. I want to use it mostly for grading and decided to change to R1’s my dealer told me I would get 8” less tread and higher to boot. I’ll be operating on a hill side so decided to stay with the R4’s. Better be safe than have more traction. The tires will be loaded and I can add 310lbs per wheel with weights to gain more traction

 

[arrow]

I’m getting a Kubota MX4800DT which has yet to be delivered. I was going to get R4”s than I kept reading the R1”s get better traction. I want to use it mostly for grading and decided to change to R1’s my dealer told me I would get 8” less tread and higher to boot. I’ll be operating on a hill side so decided to stay with the R4’s. Better be safe than have more traction. The tires will be loaded and I can add 310lbs per wheel with weights to gain more traction

Congratulations. Great machine.
You could have also kicked out the rims on the R1's for wider stance.
You are actually safer with R1's on side hills with wet terrain or grass as long as the wheels they are mounted on are set to their widest spread.
I know you were thinking of stability or tipping issues but R1's grab better in relation to "sliding issues" and loaded, R1's do not give up much in terms of stability to R4's.
The height differential is nominal not to make much of a difference.

Your salesperson should have inquired on your usage not only in terms of slope, but also surface make up. Grass, stone, dirt, etc.
Side hills with wet grass and R4's, can have a bit of "puckering" capability.

 

[Edward Romero]

Congratulations. Great machine.
You could have also kicked out the rims on the R1's for wider stance.
You are actually safer with R1's on side hills with wet terrain or grass as long as the wheels they are mounted on are set to their widest spread.
I know you were thinking of stability or tipping issues but R1's grab better in relation to "sliding issues" and loaded, R1's do not give up much in terms of stability to R4's.
The height differential is nominal not to make much of a difference.

Your salesperson should have inquired on your usage not only in terms of slope, but also surface make up. Grass, stone, dirt, etc.
Side hills with wet grass and R4's, can have a bit of "puckering" capability.

Another reason for the R4”s is because I want to grade along a creek which is full of rocks. I read the R1’s”s are not nearly as good for rocky surfaces susceptible to puncture. The wheels are going to be kicked out. I’ll just keep it in mind their not the best for mud. My brother has R4”s on his tractor and he seems happy with them. The R4”s are 8” wider track and lower profile. Just trying to keep the center of gravity as low as possible

 

[ljjhouser]

Somehow I'm getting the idea that this is not putting the R1 VS R4 debate to rest.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Somehow I'm getting the idea that this is not putting the R1 VS R4 debate to rest.

We have tractors representing the full spectrum of treads [less R14]. Its good to have a choice most adequate for the task conditions.

 

[SPYDERLK]

You'll have better luck debating the perfect color than tire type.

I had a Kubota L4400 with R4. I had to run chains of the rear during muddy/snowy times. More durable, longer lasting tire, just horrible on slick surfaces.

My M9540 has R1 tires. [[ I've carried many loads with the Grapple while one rear tire is off the ground.]] I run higher air pressure in the fronts than suggested. I've never had one come loose from the rim.

I have R4 tires on my little JD that I mow with. I'd have no use for them on anything larger.

Bias the balance of your load off toward the side of the front wheel toward which the drive shaft turns. Drive torque will then cause that wheel to support more of the load resisting a chassis tip in that direction.

 

[deezler]

Nokian does have some pretty cool looking tire options. Wonder how difficult and expensive it is to obtain these in the US.

Agricultural and contracting / Nokian Tyres

Agricultural and contracting. Tires that change the agricultural industry

www.nokiantyres.com

 

[Torvy]

So I don't know if this is all small tractors or not, but at the dealer I visited on Saturday they had the same size tractor side by side. One had R1 the other R4. I didn't realize how much narrower the R1 was. I expected just different tread. Now I think I am leaning toward r4...