Pylex pilings

[Bronco82]

Wasn't sure exactly where to post this, but as I am using my tractor to flatten the ground for the deck, thought it was suiting.

Anyone have any experience using Pylex manual screwed in piles for a deck, patio, addition, or anything else?

Building a new deck and one company wants $5100 (Canadian funds, so about $3000 U.S.) to install 18 pilings for deck footings. Found some at the big box stores for $60 each. I don't mind a little manual labour, and even paying for a helper to save a couple thousand.

 

[Rustyiron]

Had to "google" them:laughing:
In my (rocky) soils, I think I'd have a hard time making the top end up right where it needs to be. Not a bad price and with "nice" dirt to screw into it would be quick & easy. It's hard to beat the old precast 4' concrete post for reliability. If only the big box stores sold post holes

 

[Rock knocker]

Depends a lot on what will be required. If you're driving those HD things 3 feet down, then OK. If you are driving them 18' down with torque specs, then hire a pro.

By the price you were given, I'm thinking a high quality product installed with a machine as per specs is what the contractor gave you a price for.

 

[Bronco82]

Correct, the installer quoted me for 18 2 and 3/8" helical piles driven at least six feet down.

For me to install 18 1 1/4" pilings six feet, it's under $1500. Not the same thickness, but they are still slated for supporting 5000 pounds in sand, and 3500 pounds in Clay, which of course is what I have.

As long as they are five feet or more below grade, past the frost line up here, in theory, should be good. Four feet is "code".

 

[RNeumann]

Deck is far different than an addition. If it's a true addition I'd avoid the Pylex- you should match and attach to what is there so it all moves together. If it's a deck I'd go for it yourself. The biggest issue with the anchors (as mentioned) is hitting the torque. The installers typically have a hydraulic motor that they can fine tune. I'd be tempted to try with a rented 3 PT PHD or your own PHD. It would beat the hand screwing they show in the videos.
I've never personally used the hand thread ones but have used and been around several helical anchors- both vertical and horizontal.

 

[Bronco82]

If anyone cares, I HIGHLY recommend the Pylex pilings for footings for a deck or other similar construction project.

Put a 6' x 1/2" piece of rebar down around five and a half feet with a sledge hammer, and then the piling over that (piling is hollow). Used a 3/4" impact with an adapter made to fit in the top of the pilings to get them started, and then when it struggled, took the impact off, put the cap back on the piling and used a 2 x 4 to get it down the rest of the way. Got 18 of them in about five to five and a half feet in under four hours including breaks. Cost me around a thousand bucks. MUCH cheaper than the $5100 quote for a similar product with the same weight load capacity.

 

[mrmikey]

Never heard of them before, slick idea, wonder about corrosion in a few years would be my only concern............Mike

 

[RNeumann]

No need to drive rebar with a sledge if you have a demo hammer-

driving rebar with rotary hammer - YouTube

Works for ground rods as well.....In fact I'm sure it was an electrician who came up with the idea- they are notoriously lazy!

 

[EddieWalker]

Interesting. How do they compare to just digging 6 foot hole and setting a post in the hole?

 

[Bronco82]

Good question. I can't say I know the answer as I haven't dug six feet down. One piling stopped at what I'm guessing is an old footing for the old deck, so I did dig three feet down where I found this footing, and cut the rebar there. Didn't want to try digging to the bottom of the rebar because the clay makes it a pain for digging.

I would think this is a bit better as you don't disturb all of the compacted earth which has settled around it, therefore it would keep it a little sturdier. I also bought the stabilizers for the posts which clamp on to the top just below the surface and act as stabilizing fins. I suppose if you sunk a post down, and did add something similar, it would prevent shifting as well.

That is all strictly my opinion and not based on any relevant education, formal or building experience.

 

[1roddy]

If anyone cares, I HIGHLY recommend the Pylex pilings for footings for a deck or other similar construction project.

Put a 6' x 1/2" piece of rebar down around five and a half feet with a sledge hammer, and then the piling over that (piling is hollow). Used a 3/4" impact with an adapter made to fit in the top of the pilings to get them started, and then when it struggled, took the impact off, put the cap back on the piling and used a 2 x 4 to get it down the rest of the way. Got 18 of them in about five to five and a half feet in under four hours including breaks. Cost me around a thousand bucks. MUCH cheaper than the $5100 quote for a similar product with the same weight load capacity.

Has the deck heaved at all? I'm also in northern ontario. Thanks!

 

[Bronco82]

The deck hasn't heaved. Still impressed with how they went in and how they are holding up, even after the excessive snowfall winter we had.

A co-worker of mine is using them for his deck, but having a hard time finding the 6x6 saddles for on top as they only come with 4x4 saddles.

 

[Cord]

They're a type of helical pile. I've had them on a few problem projects as their versatility can often solve issues that otherwise has no solution. Need to increase the load bearing capacity for a pad footing in an existing basement under a building with very tight clearances? Run in a couple helical piles and pour a new pile cap; problem solved. The greatest issue is to calculate the load on the piles and the bearing capacity of your soil. As this product is being directed towards a residential market, the manufacture has probably created convenient reference charts to follow. I'd have no hesitation to use them on my house.

btw - utility pole guy wires are connected to a helical pile. It's just that these are designed to function in tension instead of compression so the drive rod is thinner.