Question about installing aux lighting.

[Mayhem]

All this talk of amp draw got me searching. My headlights are a pair of 1156 standard light bulbs (the kind they used to use in car and truck tail lights)(see attachment) they are NO better than mounting a pair of Bic lighters up front,other than they don't blow out. The amp draw for these is 2.1 amps each. Then theres the tail lamps. They are a 194 bulb with a draw of .54amps each.Now add on my 55watt Aux lights with an amp draw of 9.16 for the pair(Using Volfandt's Numbers)
This gives me a total of 14.44 amps. My asumption is that I will have enough alternater(Close) and I am best off running it off it's own protected curcuit. I am going to mount a new switch in the dash and run the wires in pvc wire loom along the same route that the factory harness runs. Thanks for all the help and ideas guys.

 

[MadReferee]

The stock dynamo on the BX and B series has a charging rate of 14.5 amps. You will be right at its max if you turn everything on.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

I had no idea the stock headlamps were such low wattage, that changes the draw, so I would agree with the others. I would still recommend running a separate circuit to a relayed powered switch rather than tying it into a circuit that is already fused for a low powered light.

 

[Tollster]

I too have been curious about doing this to my BX and have put together some links I found here on the subject that may help. I try to save the hyperlink in an email attachment then they are all together on the subject. I send them to my mailbox, then file them. Hope these help you, they are placement, fuses, and switch locations. I saw one that use switches from a marine store I thought was pretty cool, waterproof and protected from the elements.


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Board/custom/Number/452126/page/6/view/collapsed/sb/5/o//fpart/1

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Board/custom/Number/455611/page/6/view/collapsed/sb/5/o//fpart/1

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Board/custom/Number/436850/page/7/view/collapsed/sb/5/o//fpart/1

***** http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Board/custom/Number/529336/page/3/view/collapsed/sb/5/o//fpart/all

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Board/custom/Number/563813/page/1/view/collapsed/sb/5/o//fpart/all

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Board/custom/Number/565022/page/1/view/collapsed/sb/5/o//fpart/all


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Board/custom/Number/461538/page/6/view/collapsed/sb/5/o//fpart/all

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Board/custom/Number/511747/page/4/view/collapsed/sb/5/o//fpart/all

http://www.awdirect.com/awdirect/catalog.cfm?dest=dir&linkid=99&linkon=subsection
Footpeg coating
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Board/custom/Number/395025/page/8/view/collapsed/sb/5/o//fpart/all

 

[botalvr]

For $5 you could go down to AutoZone and get some Blazer light bulbs for the useless 1156's.
Much better than stock. And as long as they are not used alot they shouldn't put you over the power limit too much.
I also found that the ROPS mounted light switch fits inside the Kubota worklight, so that's where I mounted the water proof switch. Not as cool as a dash mounted switch but much easier=more seat time.

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Av8r3400]

I did exactly what you are thinking about. The only differance is I used 2 35w "tractor" lights I bought at the dealer. They are rubber cased and very durable. 35W is plenty bright for night snowblowing and FEL work. I used a relay powered by the ignition on lead under the seat and switched the relay with the tail light lead. I have had no problems with the system. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Work Lights