Qapla
Veteran Member
Here is the situation ...
An irrigation well with a 4" submersible pump was tripping the "overload" on the bottom of the controller. When I reset the overload, it would run and pump water. After a minute or two of running the pipe coming from the well would begin to "rattle" and even "shake", and the overload would kick out.
We tried jumping the overload and discovered that if the pump kept running the water the well was producing would drop to almost nothing.
Because of the overload button tripping, it was determined that the "run" side of the pump was bad and a new pump was ordered.
I pulled the pump from the well and found it had about 50' of 1 1/4" galvanized drop pipe. When putting the new pump back down we used 1 1/4" schedule 80 PVC drop pipe. The PVC comes threaded with bells and we did not want to cut the pipe at the well seal so we intended to use the 60' of drop pipe.
As I was sending the pump down it suddenly "came to rest" and stopped with about 10' of pipe sticking out of the well. We found the well had "collapsed" and a well company was called. They confirmed that the well was gone and a new one is going to be put in at a new location on the property. We will be using the new pump in the new well.
When I got home with the "old" pump I tested the pump for ohms. It is a "three wire" pump with red, yellow, black and green wires. The readings for the red/black, red/yellow, and yellow/black are all within tolerance. I would like to test the pump to see if the overload was tripping because the pump was getting "jammed" with debris from the collapsed well.
Here is my question - I wanted to know that if I remove the "liquid end" from the pump and connect the motor only on a bench could I safely run it for long enough to determine if the motor is really good and wont trip the overload or will the motor get to hot without being submerged?
An irrigation well with a 4" submersible pump was tripping the "overload" on the bottom of the controller. When I reset the overload, it would run and pump water. After a minute or two of running the pipe coming from the well would begin to "rattle" and even "shake", and the overload would kick out.
We tried jumping the overload and discovered that if the pump kept running the water the well was producing would drop to almost nothing.
Because of the overload button tripping, it was determined that the "run" side of the pump was bad and a new pump was ordered.
I pulled the pump from the well and found it had about 50' of 1 1/4" galvanized drop pipe. When putting the new pump back down we used 1 1/4" schedule 80 PVC drop pipe. The PVC comes threaded with bells and we did not want to cut the pipe at the well seal so we intended to use the 60' of drop pipe.
As I was sending the pump down it suddenly "came to rest" and stopped with about 10' of pipe sticking out of the well. We found the well had "collapsed" and a well company was called. They confirmed that the well was gone and a new one is going to be put in at a new location on the property. We will be using the new pump in the new well.
When I got home with the "old" pump I tested the pump for ohms. It is a "three wire" pump with red, yellow, black and green wires. The readings for the red/black, red/yellow, and yellow/black are all within tolerance. I would like to test the pump to see if the overload was tripping because the pump was getting "jammed" with debris from the collapsed well.
Here is my question - I wanted to know that if I remove the "liquid end" from the pump and connect the motor only on a bench could I safely run it for long enough to determine if the motor is really good and wont trip the overload or will the motor get to hot without being submerged?