Question For Connecting Double Lever Control Valve

[ampa]

I'm still kickin' this hydraulic connection around,and I'm really sorry if I'm becoming a pest on this same issue,but I've got no where else to find these answers, most connections I've seen are not really displayed so,unless I'm not looking in the proper past threads on this issue,I really need to get the info to fully complete my project correctly,so please bare with me, for once I get all my questions and problems aswered or ironed out,I should be good to go,here's my question/issue,I have mounted the double hydraulic control to the fender of my tractor,inclosed is a close up veiw of valve in question,this valve has three 1/4" threaded inputs/output? ports on each side of valve,now the one side I will be usin' a single action small size Myers ram/cylinder for raising/lowering my new snowblade,there will be two open 1/4" ports only one hydraulic rubber pressure line connects to this ram,the young guys who work in the hydraulic dept where I bought this valve tell me the two remaining ports must be looped back into the system with a short piece of rubber (P) hose/line to relieve the pressure back into the system, sounds logic to me so I'm okay with that answer, but what about when I connect the double acting ram/cylinder for angling this snowblade,which will use two of the ports leaving the one 1/4" threaded port open,what do I need to do with this?,please,in need of a diagram connecting the high pressure rubber hose lines to the two rams/cylinders ,then I can then print it out on my B/W laser printer to help me connect everthing up correctly, thanks in advance<<<<>>>>Ampa :confused2:

 

[DonnieP]

On the lower side of your picture, there are two inputs labeled P. You use the one of these that best fits your installation for the pressure input and plug the other. On the upper side you have to know if you're using a Power Beyond or an Open system. If open system, run one of the two to your tank (T) and plug the other. If you want power beyond you have to get a 'power beyond' adapter and put it in the side port and use that to feed the rest of your system and take the 'T' port on top to your drain. I labeled a picture and attached it.

 

[ampa]

Hi Donnie<<>>I don't know what to call my system since I started messin' with it, it may be either (opened) or (closed) for all I know about hydraulics,which is very little and just what I've picked up or learned in the last week or so from this TBN forum,all I can tell you, is that I'm keepin' the tractors hydraulics connected, to connect this new control valve,I was told I needed to cut the one end of the small original exsisting steel hydraulic lineand take out a small section of it,install a compression fitting on the one cut end and then install a custom fit of proper length (HP) high pressure hydraulic hose to the edge side( and not the top of the valve where you have marked with arrows,I don't know how you were able to do that with my pic of the valve,("confused"as always), anyhow the side is marked on the top of the casting with a "P",then I was told to install the second compression fitting plus another custom fit HP hose to the other edge side of the valve casting marked with a "T"(tank)which complete the fluid flow to the transmission housing or exsisting system,so these top 1/4" threads can be used to connect the system in line,so I gather then the two side hole are to be plugged off,I'm I followin' your info/diagram correctly Donnie?,the 3 plugs are just screwed in finger tight for now to remind me that this side of the valve will be operating the angle,the outside portion of the valve will be connected first,also this would be the single active small recomended to me "MEYERS" brand snowblade ram/cylinder that only needs one HP rubber hose connected and leavining one port open, Canadian Tire tried to sell me the manual lift for the new snowblade,for which I thought would be hard to manage,I'm on a small government OA fixed pention so I must always wait from cheuqe to cheuqe to buy what I need in extra additional parts,my early income tax refund return plus selling my two implements plus this months cheuqe paid for what I have already bought,I've also been told these extras that are needed are what cost the big bucks,so maybe with a little prayin' and a little luck I may have it all together and workin' for the first snowfall of the year,I do thank you Donnie so very much for patience and input,for now take care<<<>>Ampa

 

[DonnieP]

If you look in the top 'P' port you can see it is connected directly to the port on the side, they are two different size threads. That is why I say you can use either one, depending which fits you layout best. Same thing for the top 'T' port, you can see it is directly connected to the side port. Now you say "which complete the fluid flow to the transmission housing or exsisting system". My understanding, if the outlet from this new valve you're installing goes to the transmission housing, which would be the reservoir you're ok using the 'T' connection like you explained. But, if the line is going to the rest of the existing system you could be in trouble.

The 'T' connection on these valves are only good for 1100 psi. Now if the line going to the rest of your system, is going to another hydraulic valve and you activate that valve, the pressure in that line will build up to the supply pressure or whatever your safety valve is set for. This will most likely be more that 1100 psi. That is when you have to install an adapter to the side port. In that new adapter (power beyond adapter), you tie in the line that carries on to the rest of the system and you have to add a third line to the new valve, a drain line from the 'T' (tank) connection to your reservoir.

 

[J_J]

I am not so sure that that valve has PB. It probably has two pressure ports and two tank ports. Use either set for your mounting requirements, and plug the others. You can connect the A work port to the SA cyl, and either plug the B work port, or run a hose from the B work port to tank. This would be a good time to add a hyd gage.

 

[ampa]

I'm postin' a pic of my rear hydraulics only,this tractor never ever had a FL or BH,so this why I got to move the hydraulics up front for my new snowblade,I think I'll go with QD so if I need to remove the snowblade I'll be able to HP lines and all<<>>>J_J what's the purpose of installin' a gauge,is it really neccessary for my new setup?,anyhow I've got a lot of info from you guys,so I should be able to get this system up and runnin',can't seem to find my mearsurin' tape,I'll need this to measure the length of HP hose I'll be needin', the young guys in the hydraulic dept @ Princess Auto will make up all my HP hoses no charge,I just have to buy the fitting's and the rubber line @ a $149 a foot, not too bad the hydraulic supply wants close to $5.00 a foot,I must get the compression connectors here,they should have the side ports (P) and (T) for the larger size threads,in the pic it shows the big nut that has an "O" ring that while I have it off I might as well replace with a new one,not too sure if it has a gasket on the other side or not,maybe it is just machined to fit tight to the back side of the housing,it came off no problem usin' just an adjustable wrench,I'll be able to cut the line easy with the line removed,and I'll have a short piece for a sample size,so I'll be able to choose the correct compression fittin' with no guess work, still can't find all my mm sockets,the big nut that secures the small HP line looks like a biggie,anyhow I'll study all the info you guys have given me,I was down in the garage all night,changing things around,I reworked the "A" frame connection on the side mounts I made up from the belly mower brackets,that worked out excellent,I started working on the ram frame to lift the blade,I went with the OP design and I'll be usin' a chain for fast adjustment, it was quite a job tryin' to get it right, still I was able to get it almost finished,and it didn't cost me nothin' as I had all the metal in different part of the basement,used a lot of it up,but still have bit's and pieces left over,like I mentioned earlier on,I never throw any metal out,even a small piece comes in handy for something,looks like I'll have to fire up my new 125 LINCOLN 120 volt. wire feed,anyhow guys,Thanks a bunch for all the help,I sure needed it,time to hit the sack,and get busy at it again tomorrow<<<>>take care<<<>>>Ampa :thumbsup:

 

[J_J]

No, a hyd gage is not absolutely necessary, unless you want to adjust the PRV, and use it as a trouble shooting tool. The cost is rather low, about $12.

 

[rswyan]

Don't mean to rain on anyone's parade, but here's a little advice for the OP:

If you want your posts to be more readable (and possibly elicit more responses) consider using multiple sentences with a period at the end, and occasionally using the return key on your keyboard to break your posts into paragraphs ......

Can't speak for others, but when I see stuff like your post above my eyes just sorta glaze over .....

And now I'll put away my grammar police hat ....... :laughing:

 

[DonnieP]

You're right J.J., these valves have two pressure and two tank ports, one on the side and one on the top and they are different sizes. You can install an adapter in the side tank port to give you a PB connection.
bm20 power beyond adapter | Princess Auto

Specs on valve:bm20 2-spool directional control valve | Monoblock | Valves | Hydraulics | Princess Auto

 

[J_J]

Although it could have PB outlet, I could not find anything to verify that. I am thinking that it simply has side ports in and out, and top ports, in and out, and of course the work ports. I don't mind being wrong.

I downloaded the manual, and it only showed the handles.

Usually there is a plug in the PB port.