Question for the tractor electricians

[bigdad]

Somewhat relevant...... what about LED lights for these work lights? I use them in flashlights etc. with great results and low current draw. Anything like that available?

 

[SPYDERLK]

From the engineering standpoint, I was using 12 as the conservative figure and hoping for the 13.8 for even a little more flexibility.

The switches themselves will realistically see only a about a 1.7 amp increase going from the 27 to the 50 watt lamps. (2 switches/4 lamps)
Thanks

My interpretation says each light draws 1.9A more. With 2 lamps per switch that adds 3.8A per switch. With both front and back lit the main circuit draw will increase 7.6A. You will want to be sure to check connectors and switches for warming. Youre increasing load by 85%. Even if it works fine, spot check for heat occasionaly. Connections/contacts can degrade, and once significant heating starts degradation will accelerate - so any indication will need prompt attention to renewgood contact.
larry

 

[bjcsc]

My thinking is along the same lines as mopacman. The way I figure it, using 13.8V, you going from a 7.8A draw to a 14.5A draw. How many switches are there? 2? Do you intend to change the light fixtures themselves or are you trying to just use higher wattage bulbs? If you're changing the fixtures, and you wire them (or they are already wired) with the appropriate gauge wire (don't know what you have running to your current fixtures), the switches could be your weak link. So as mopacman mentioned, you use the switches to trigger 2 separate relays that are common fed from the current fuse for your worklights. If the 15A fuse blows (I don't think it will), instead of using a 20A fuse in that location, I would simply run a new common feed wire (correct gauge) from the battery to the relays with an inline 20A fuse.

 

[RFB]

Thank you for all the counsel. I will try the 15 Amp fuse first.

The wiring is all completely run by the factory in the L5030 cab tractor, and is stubbed out to the work light locations with bullet-type connectors. The tractor comes with front work lights, the rears are options but are "plug-n-play". The installation requires cab roof removal only to plug the switch into existing connectors, and all of the wiring is complete in factory runs and bundles. I installed the factory rear lights last year, and was completely underwhelmed by the performance of fronts and rears over this winter: 27 watts of not very bright light from a fairly chintzy lamp assembly using back-up bulbs as the source. (I tried some "super-bright" 35 watt back-ups but they failed in a few hours, and produced little discernible improvement.)

The Kubota switch part numbers for front and rear respectively are T1065-75360 and T1065-75370.

I have zero knowledge regarding their ampacity.

I have attached pdf's of the parts manual detail, but it really gives little information.

bjsc,

There are 2 switches and 4 lights, (1 switch front, 1 for rear). I am planning on new light assemblies.

 

[DRL]

If you have two switches being feed by one 15amp fuse, each switch still has to be rated at least 15 amp, but only has two of the lights drawing from it. I don't think the switches or wiring down stream from them will be a problem. The only thing you are getting close to pushing the limit on is the fuse and wiring before it spits in two for the switches(14.5 volts as said earlier). Worst case you will need to spit the feeds for the switches and feed each one with its own 15amp fuse. Should be easy with an inline fuse holder.
DRL

 

[RFB]

Thanks for the input...the hardest problem is finding the raceway for the existing bundles/runs.

 

[bjcsc]

Once you determine the gauge of the factory wiring and the approximate length of the runs, you can use this calculator to see what you'll get (voltage) at the light fixtures. I would think that the factory wiring would support the upgrade, but only you know the gauge of the wire they use.

I don't see how the switches can be assumed to be rated for 15A when the load they handle (at 27w) is less than 5A, unless DRL knows that Kubota runs those switches in series. That would be another clue...if the switches are the same and in series then they will be each rated for 15A (and you could use them as is), but if they're parallel they could be rated as low as 5A in which case you go to relays.

If you split the feeds after the 15A fuse per DRL's suggestion (again, this assumes they are in series to begin with) I don't see the point of running a redundant inline 15A fuse on each feed. If they are in series, the wiring is rated for 15A, and protected by the 15A fuse that it is currently using...

 

[RFB]

bjcsc,

I am committed to making the change because the existing lights are useless ornaments. I have not yet selected replacement lights, and in this area, Kubota's quality is shoddy. These lights are cheap plastic housings, plastichrome reflectors, and 27 watt (1156) backup bulbs, for the princely sum of $50 each. They are not worth $10.

If I have to use relays, do you have a suggested type/model and vendor?

 

[texbaylea]

Has anyone compared the multi-led replacement bulbs for brightness against the incandescent bulbs? If they are brighter then that is a no-brainer upgrade with lower draw.

Vernon

 

[RFB]

texbaylea,

You are right on that, but due to the prices I did not want to do my first knee surgery on my knee.