Questions about Grading Scraper Operation

   / Questions about Grading Scraper Operation #1  

Poopdeck Pappy

Elite Member
Joined
May 13, 2013
Messages
2,627
Location
Dallas, Texas
Tractor
Kioti DK50SE Cab, Kubota BX23, Kubota BX2660, Grasshopper 729BT
I've never used a land plane grading scraper (LPGS) but I'm looking to buy one. I've used my Gannon box blade to cut some trails through my property. I'm getting a lot of washboarding on some of the trails. Of course, it's caused by the pivoting of the box blade up and down in the opposite direction of the front of the tractor. With the box blade, every pass exacerbates the problem.

I'm looking at two possible solutions. Either (1) get/build a drag to drag behind the tractor, or (2) buy a LPGS.

My questions about the LPGS are:

1. Does the LPGS suffer the same washboarding as a box blade does?

2. If so, can you unhook the top link on a LPGS and just drag it using the two lower links? This should eliminate the washboarding by allowing the LPGS to be less affected by the pivoting motions of the front of the tractor.
 
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   / Questions about Grading Scraper Operation #2  
I have the Land Pride GS2584 grading scraper. I use it to maintain my mile long gravel driveway and to create new trails throughout my property. I know exactly what the problem is trying to maintain my driveway with my rear blade. The rear blade certainly does create wash boarding. The grading scraper has corrected all the washboarding. Its a real relief to be able to finish grade the driveway and not create or amplify the washboarding. By going very slow the grading scraper is a great attachment for creating new trails right out thru the pucker brush. I do cut the brush or small trees before creating the trail. I've never tried the GS with the top link unhooked. I have a hydraulic top link and use it extensively with the GS and my roll over box blade.
 
   / Questions about Grading Scraper Operation #3  
I would not recommend unhooking the top link from the lpgs. You need to control the pitch of the tool closely and I also use the hydraulic top link for this. Since the skids slide across the surface and planes it flat wash boarding isn't an issue.

I should add I used to have the wash boarding problems with a box blade before I added the topntilt. I don't know for sure if it is all the seat time or the topntilt but I don't have near as many issues with smoothing using my box blade any more.
 
   / Questions about Grading Scraper Operation #4  
I've never used a land plane grading scraper (LPGS) but I'm looking to buy one. I've used my Gannon box blade to cut some trails through my property. I'm getting a lot of washboarding on some of the trails. Of course, it's caused by the pivoting of the box blade up and down in the opposite direction of the front of the tractor. With the box blade, every pass exacerbates the problem.

I think that most folks just plain go to fast with their box blades. I've noticed that a lot of really nice tractors out there also have very poor 3 point controls when it comes to operator input too. Both of these things make it really hard to react fast enough to grade flat.

My suggestion is to go slow...r e a l l y slow at first. Use the bubble in the butt method to feel what the front of the tractor is doing and then do the same with the box blade. Front of the tractor begins to rise...raise the BB a tad. Front of the tractor starts to dip...lower the BB a tad. If you find that the 3pt is lagging behind your input, stop...set it...and go back to creeping.

Hey Pappy, I don't know where you're located in Dallas, but I'm just North of Denton. I have a 72" Land Pride landplane. You're more than welcome to try it out before you go out and spend your cash. It just sits out behind the shed most of the time anyway. PM me if you want.
 
   / Questions about Grading Scraper Operation
  • Thread Starter
#5  
John: That's a very kind offer and I appreciate it. I'm actually on the northeast side of the Dallas area (the Lavon area), so you're probably not that far from me.
 
   / Questions about Grading Scraper Operation
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I would not recommend unhooking the top link from the lpgs. You need to control the pitch of the tool closely and I also use the hydraulic top link for this. Since the skids slide across the surface and planes it flat wash boarding isn't an issue.

I should add I used to have the wash boarding problems with a box blade before I added the topntilt. I don't know for sure if it is all the seat time or the topntilt but I don't have near as many issues with smoothing using my box blade any more.

I'll be the first to admit that I'm a complete amateur with a box blade. I grew up on a wheat/cotton/milo farm and accumulated thousands of hours on a tractor running moldboards, chisels, disks, cultivators, etc., but never used a box blade. We didn't even have one.

So, I'm sure my lack of knowledge/experience/technique is amplifying the problem.
 
   / Questions about Grading Scraper Operation #7  
John: That's a very kind offer and I appreciate it. I'm actually on the northeast side of the Dallas area (the Lavon area), so you're probably not that far from me.

Pappy, take John up on his offer, you won't be sorry. You'll be getting a LPGS soon after. ;)
 
   / Questions about Grading Scraper Operation
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I have the Land Pride GS2584 grading scraper. I use it to maintain my mile long gravel driveway and to create new trails throughout my property. I know exactly what the problem is trying to maintain my driveway with my rear blade. The rear blade certainly does create wash boarding. The grading scraper has corrected all the washboarding. Its a real relief to be able to finish grade the driveway and not create or amplify the washboarding. By going very slow the grading scraper is a great attachment for creating new trails right out thru the pucker brush. I do cut the brush or small trees before creating the trail. I've never tried the GS with the top link unhooked. I have a hydraulic top link and use it extensively with the GS and my roll over box blade.

Thanks for the info. I need to go ahead and order my hydraulic top link (and a diverter valve) from Brian. It would sure be handy for the box blade and the LPGS when I get one.
 
   / Questions about Grading Scraper Operation
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Pappy, take John up on his offer, you won't be sorry. You'll be getting a LPGS soon after. ;)

I know that's good advice, Brian. And I'm sure I'll be getting a LPGS (AND a hydraulic top link and diverter from you too).

I've been spending money like a drunken sailor on my property, and I'm getting ready to build a barn/apartment on it so I was trying to avoid any more implement purchases for a while. But the washboard roads are starting to aggravate me.
 
   / Questions about Grading Scraper Operation #10  
Pappy, I can sure identify with your situation, I grew up on a row crop, cattle farm and ran tractors for over thirty years or so before using a box scraper; took me quit a while to learn to use t and I'm still not where I would like to be.

As it seems to be too often the case anymore, I agree with much of what has been said. We use a box scraper almost exclusively for trails and roads, but it has taken a lot of time, practice and patience. I use to often just drop my box scraper and hook up to our 10' drag scraper when doing long stretches of roads, but we now only use it occasionally on large areas. I am using a tractor with Top and Tilt along with a scraper with hydraulic scarifiers similar to jenkinsph which helps.

If I had the spare money and didn't hate swapping implements so much though, I would buy a LPGS to add to my inventory.
 
 

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