Questions about Grading Scraper Operation

[Poopdeck Pappy]

I've never used a land plane grading scraper (LPGS) but I'm looking to buy one. I've used my Gannon box blade to cut some trails through my property. I'm getting a lot of washboarding on some of the trails. Of course, it's caused by the pivoting of the box blade up and down in the opposite direction of the front of the tractor. With the box blade, every pass exacerbates the problem.

I'm looking at two possible solutions. Either (1) get/build a drag to drag behind the tractor, or (2) buy a LPGS.

My questions about the LPGS are:

1. Does the LPGS suffer the same washboarding as a box blade does?

2. If so, can you unhook the top link on a LPGS and just drag it using the two lower links? This should eliminate the washboarding by allowing the LPGS to be less affected by the pivoting motions of the front of the tractor.

 

[oosik]

I have the Land Pride GS2584 grading scraper. I use it to maintain my mile long gravel driveway and to create new trails throughout my property. I know exactly what the problem is trying to maintain my driveway with my rear blade. The rear blade certainly does create wash boarding. The grading scraper has corrected all the washboarding. Its a real relief to be able to finish grade the driveway and not create or amplify the washboarding. By going very slow the grading scraper is a great attachment for creating new trails right out thru the pucker brush. I do cut the brush or small trees before creating the trail. I've never tried the GS with the top link unhooked. I have a hydraulic top link and use it extensively with the GS and my roll over box blade.

 

[jenkinsph]

I would not recommend unhooking the top link from the lpgs. You need to control the pitch of the tool closely and I also use the hydraulic top link for this. Since the skids slide across the surface and planes it flat wash boarding isn't an issue.

I should add I used to have the wash boarding problems with a box blade before I added the topntilt. I don't know for sure if it is all the seat time or the topntilt but I don't have near as many issues with smoothing using my box blade any more.

 

[RDrancher]

I've never used a land plane grading scraper (LPGS) but I'm looking to buy one. I've used my Gannon box blade to cut some trails through my property. I'm getting a lot of washboarding on some of the trails. Of course, it's caused by the pivoting of the box blade up and down in the opposite direction of the front of the tractor. With the box blade, every pass exacerbates the problem.

I think that most folks just plain go to fast with their box blades. I've noticed that a lot of really nice tractors out there also have very poor 3 point controls when it comes to operator input too. Both of these things make it really hard to react fast enough to grade flat.

My suggestion is to go slow...r e a l l y slow at first. Use the bubble in the butt method to feel what the front of the tractor is doing and then do the same with the box blade. Front of the tractor begins to rise...raise the BB a tad. Front of the tractor starts to dip...lower the BB a tad. If you find that the 3pt is lagging behind your input, stop...set it...and go back to creeping.

Hey Pappy, I don't know where you're located in Dallas, but I'm just North of Denton. I have a 72" Land Pride landplane. You're more than welcome to try it out before you go out and spend your cash. It just sits out behind the shed most of the time anyway. PM me if you want.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

John: That's a very kind offer and I appreciate it. I'm actually on the northeast side of the Dallas area (the Lavon area), so you're probably not that far from me.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

I would not recommend unhooking the top link from the lpgs. You need to control the pitch of the tool closely and I also use the hydraulic top link for this. Since the skids slide across the surface and planes it flat wash boarding isn't an issue.

I should add I used to have the wash boarding problems with a box blade before I added the topntilt. I don't know for sure if it is all the seat time or the topntilt but I don't have near as many issues with smoothing using my box blade any more.

I'll be the first to admit that I'm a complete amateur with a box blade. I grew up on a wheat/cotton/milo farm and accumulated thousands of hours on a tractor running moldboards, chisels, disks, cultivators, etc., but never used a box blade. We didn't even have one.

So, I'm sure my lack of knowledge/experience/technique is amplifying the problem.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

John: That's a very kind offer and I appreciate it. I'm actually on the northeast side of the Dallas area (the Lavon area), so you're probably not that far from me.

Pappy, take John up on his offer, you won't be sorry. You'll be getting a LPGS soon after.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

I have the Land Pride GS2584 grading scraper. I use it to maintain my mile long gravel driveway and to create new trails throughout my property. I know exactly what the problem is trying to maintain my driveway with my rear blade. The rear blade certainly does create wash boarding. The grading scraper has corrected all the washboarding. Its a real relief to be able to finish grade the driveway and not create or amplify the washboarding. By going very slow the grading scraper is a great attachment for creating new trails right out thru the pucker brush. I do cut the brush or small trees before creating the trail. I've never tried the GS with the top link unhooked. I have a hydraulic top link and use it extensively with the GS and my roll over box blade.

Thanks for the info. I need to go ahead and order my hydraulic top link (and a diverter valve) from Brian. It would sure be handy for the box blade and the LPGS when I get one.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

Pappy, take John up on his offer, you won't be sorry. You'll be getting a LPGS soon after.

I know that's good advice, Brian. And I'm sure I'll be getting a LPGS (AND a hydraulic top link and diverter from you too).

I've been spending money like a drunken sailor on my property, and I'm getting ready to build a barn/apartment on it so I was trying to avoid any more implement purchases for a while. But the washboard roads are starting to aggravate me.

 

[TripleR]

Pappy, I can sure identify with your situation, I grew up on a row crop, cattle farm and ran tractors for over thirty years or so before using a box scraper; took me quit a while to learn to use t and I'm still not where I would like to be.

As it seems to be too often the case anymore, I agree with much of what has been said. We use a box scraper almost exclusively for trails and roads, but it has taken a lot of time, practice and patience. I use to often just drop my box scraper and hook up to our 10' drag scraper when doing long stretches of roads, but we now only use it occasionally on large areas. I am using a tractor with Top and Tilt along with a scraper with hydraulic scarifiers similar to jenkinsph which helps.

If I had the spare money and didn't hate swapping implements so much though, I would buy a LPGS to add to my inventory.

 

[RDrancher]

The offer stands Pappy.

Interesting on your plans. We're looking for a nice piece to build a metal barn/shop/home on right now.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

As it seems to be too often the case anymore, I agree with much of what has been said. We use a box scraper almost exclusively for trails and roads, but it has taken a lot of time, practice and patience. I use to often just drop my box scraper and hook up to our 10' drag scraper when doing long stretches of roads, but we now only use it occasionally on large areas. I am using a tractor with Top and Tilt along with a scraper with hydraulic scarifiers similar to jenkinsph which helps.

If I had the spare money and didn't hate swapping implements so much though, I would buy a LPGS to add to my inventory.

Larry, since "we" like to spend other peoples money so much,:thumbsup: maybe you should think about the Delta Hook quick hitch. Fits about any implement, you probably would not mind switching out implements so much then. I recommend this unit so that there are no issues fitting to implements that would otherwise need to be altered if a std type 3pt QH was to be used.

 

[jenkinsph]

I'll be the first to admit that I'm a complete amateur with a box blade. I grew up on a wheat/cotton/milo farm and accumulated thousands of hours on a tractor running moldboards, chisels, disks, cultivators, etc., but never used a box blade. We didn't even have one.

So, I'm sure my lack of knowledge/experience/technique is amplifying the problem.

I think practice helps but as John mentions good rockshaft control is a must have. I also agree that you have to move slow enough to have time to react and make the needed adjustments. With your hst tranny you can slow down as John mention and feel the front dip or rise to make the adjustments. Sometimes you may have to stop then adjust and proceed.

 

[TripleR]

Larry, since "we" like to spend other peoples money so much,:thumbsup: maybe you should think about the Delta Hook quick hitch. Fits about any implement, you probably would not mind switching out implements so much then. I recommend this unit so that there are no issues fitting to implements that would otherwise need to be altered if a std type 3pt QH was to be used.

Brian, do you know a good marriage counselor...:laughing:

I've seen those and really like the concept, but my L5740HSTC is in the shop getting a third function added to go with my new grapple and before that I sprung for some new wheel weights and our M8540HDC needs...:licking:

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Sorry, no actually glad that I don't know of a good counselor. Haven't needed one so far. :thumbsup: As far as the Delta Hook, all I can do is :drool:.

Maybe someday.

 

[RDrancher]

Sorry, no actually glad that I don't know of a good counselor. Haven't needed one so far. :thumbsup: As far as the Delta Hook, all I can do is :drool:.

Maybe someday.

Man, it sure is cool though. Lemme see...3.5k for a rebuilt final drive...3.5k for a 4n1...7k for a brush cutter....and never got around to the tnt. Maybe next week! :laughing:

 

[bcp]

I would not recommend unhooking the top link from the lpgs. You need to control the pitch of the tool closely and I also use the hydraulic top link for this.

Tongue-pulled scrapers behind an ATV or truck seem to do OK.

I think that most folks just plain go to fast with their box blades.

There are several Youtube videos of people pulling driveway graders so fast they bounce over the road.

This one, at about 35 seconds, lost most of the gravel while spending too much time in the air.

Homemade Drag grader - YouTube


In my opinion, about half the speeds in this video are too fast to let the tool work right---especially the Jeep at 17 seconds.

Gravel Rascal - ATV Driveway Grader & Landscape Rake - YouTube

There are others, but these are the first two I found.

Bruce

 

[jenkinsph]

Tongue-pulled scrapers behind an ATV or truck seem to do OK.


Bruce

Yes but pull type and three point are different animals. If you unhook the top link from a 3ph land plane it will pitch forward too much and most likely skip and bounce along behind the tractor.

 

[s219]

Of course, it's caused by the pivoting of the box blade up and down in the opposite direction of the front of the tractor. With the box blade, every pass exacerbates the problem.

I see people mention this a lot, but I have never run into this problem. I do all grading and road maintenance with my 3-pt all the way down, so that the box is floating on the road surface all the time. It would take a serious dip to get the box to lift off the ground, as it would require the rear of the tractor to pivot up beyond the down-limit of the 3-pt arms.

I suspect when people run into this problem, they are grading with the box slightly elevated. I rarely need to do that, maybe only when distributing fresh material.

 

[Gregster613]

s219, 3-pt all the way down...how does that stop the box blade from continuing to dig deeper & deeper; rather than just grading? At least for me, that's what always happens unless I am working the T-N-T constantly? I am always eager to learn better techniques. thanks, Greg