Okay I think I know what your saying. It's getting jammed up on the bottom bolt just below the U-joint? If thats what its doing may have to remove it and just make another brace or support instead of the bolt. Looks like no matter what your going to have to do some fabricating. I don't have the bottom bolt for my U-Joint to hit. May have to do a little Ghetto Rigging had to do some myself over the yrs. that I wasn't to proud of but it worked and thats what counts
After thinking more about it just like WILLL posted.The easy way may just be a peace of chain just long enough to tighten up when you lift up the mower. ?????? almost have to see it happening now :anyone:
I posted this photo in a different thread to illustrate a different point. But it shows why I use a chain that allows 6" slack. I need a substantial 'hinge' between the tractor and mower to climb the terraces, stairs, between rows in my orchard without everything binding up.
In my case I have the chain from the top of the mower to the top of the Quick Hitch, with the QH adjusted forward to make 6" spacing between the two tops on level ground. Since the 6" of chain is taut on level ground it lifts fine. Climbing like in this photo, the gap closes down to zero chain length.
You have to look at that picture and imagine the horizontal centerline of the tractor projecting back into the mower, then the need for a hinge is obvious.
Dustin, Have you tried removing the swivel U that the top link hooks to? and re-position it directly to the Upper part of the A frame? of course you would have to run the link in a bit more, but looking at what you have it looks like everything is up much too high for your tractor, even the lower connecting pins look high up on the cutter leaving the tractor not much room for lift travel,..... the bush hog I have has no spacing between the top part of the A frame otherwise I would try the same on mine, I understand the principle for reason of this swiveling U although not sure if with our tractors we need use it? My previous tractor and cutter had no such device and always seem to work just fine without it,......... about my situation I have the pins off from the cutter and am drilling out the lower holes to re-install them into this will get the tractors arms approx 3" lower to the cutter deck surface, if this does not work then my plans are to weld additional mounting brackets even lower and drop the pins another 3" this will put the pin exactly the same hight as the arms will be in the lowest position,................ though I cannot keep from thinking that the U system is part of our problem I have sketched out what I think may be happening, please correct me if I am wrong
with having the swivel U causes the cutter to drop/swag in the front, there is nothing to hold it firmly in position and simply floats along with the rear wheel controlling the reaction of the cutter...... the second sketch is without the U swivel and one can see how it will become for stable although perhaps more rigid as well, but would prevent the front from dropping all the way down, the leverage of the top link assist in holding it firmly up off the ground, the arrows show the predicted force on the area's of which it is connected,
Looks like you need a longer top link. These tractors use shorter top links and i have to use a longer link on the bush hog. I would disconnect the top link and measure how long you need when the mower is level.
