Questions on Disk Mowers

/ Questions on Disk Mowers #1  

tkcomer

Silver Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2005
Messages
190
Location
Maysville, KY
Tractor
JD 3039R
Hey all. I’m thinking of getting a disk mower to replace my aging sickle mower. The disk mower would go on a Case-IH 685 2WD tractor that has around 62 HP. Rear tires are 18.4X30” tires that are loaded. Now then, I see various minimum HP requirements for these mowers. Take the 9-foot models. I’ve seen minimum HP requirements from 45 to 65 HP for the same size mower. Why the big difference? Do some take more HP or is this a matter of requiring a heavier tractor for some models? Do these mowers use skid shoes or do they float over the ground? It seems like a lot of weight hanging off to one side, especially if it is hanging down hill. I also hear rumors that these mowers are difficult to take on and off. Is that true? Also, a few manufacturers say for cab tractors only. Mine is an open station tractor. Does this rule out me even thinking about using these mowers? Once I get these questions answered I’ll be back with questions on various models and their features along with some pricing guidelines. Thanks for any and all help the gang gives me on this.
 
/ Questions on Disk Mowers #2  
The variance in hp requirements comes from the different weights of the different brands of mowers and the different cutting widths. Most of the brands I am familiar with use skid shoes and slide on the ground to much weight to carry up in the air. Another reason for the differences in hp requirements is the amount of weight hanging on one side and the type of terrain. The bigger the mower and the more hilly terrain will dictate how much hp and tractor weight will be needed. As far as the hook up problems any large peice of equipment can be a pain especially if the tractor is not equipped with telescoping lift arms. Due to the problem of getting hooked up some companies are offering a caddy to turn the mower into a pull type, while others are offering a pull type disc mower. I have been told the mowers on caddies are easy to turn over if folded up on hills.
Customers have told me that the Vermeer mower is one of the easiest to hook up, while New Holland is one of the hardest, I have never hooked up a NH so I can't speek from experience on that.
 
/ Questions on Disk Mowers
  • Thread Starter
#3  
The reason for asking is I don’t know anybody that has a disk mower. I sometimes think I’m the only one still using a sickle bar. Everybody uses conditioners. I, myself, don’t see the need for that for my small operation. Cut one day, bale the next. One good windstorm can turn a field into a nightmare for a sickle bar. I hear rumors that the disk mower will go right through downed hayfields with no problems, but I’m skeptical. Any input on using the disk mower on my open station tractor, with no roll bar?
 
/ Questions on Disk Mowers #4  
The guy that cuts/bales our place says that having a cab is, in his opinion, mandatory for using the disc mower. He says that even in a "clean" (rock/debris free) field that the cab is peppered with stuff. The canvas cover just can't stop everything.
 
/ Questions on Disk Mowers
  • Thread Starter
#5  
That doesn’t sound good. Wish I could see one in operation. The fields I’m mowing are clean, no debris. Except for the mole hills that seem to plug up the sickle mower.
 
/ Questions on Disk Mowers #6  
We've mowed thousands of acres with a 3 point disc mower with a non-cab tractor and have never had a close call with a thrown object. We live in rocky territory and 3 point mower is safer than any pull-type mower. Almost all of the 3 point mower's thrown object trajectory is blocked by the right rear tire and fender. Blown down hay is no problem for a disc or a drum mower.
HayMaxx-anas.gif
 
/ Questions on Disk Mowers
  • Thread Starter
#7  
One of the mowers I was looking at was the Hay Maxx 280. Especially since I have your MR-175 tiller. Nice tiller by the way. So now that the open station question has been answered, can this tractor handle that model? I noticed the HP requirement for the 280 was a lot lower than what others sell. Does the mower take a lot of HP to run or is it a weight thing? I think this tractor is around 7000 pounds and has one rear remote. Is there a lot of leverage on the tractor when you raise the mower? And is the 280 hard to hook up? And can you mow when it is a little bit wet? With the sickle mower, you have to wait until the dew has burned off. Sorry for all the questions. This isn’t like when I bought the tiller. I’m flying blind on this one.
 
/ Questions on Disk Mowers #8  
The HayMAX disc mower takes the proven shaft drive advantages of the Lely Optimo/Splindimo and Vermeer mower to the next step in the technology advancement. These disc mowers will mow in the rain, wet blown down hay and well as ideal conditions.

A 7 disc 9'2" HayMax disc mower needs only 42 PTO HP with 4500 LBS & a 4 wd tractor or 5000 Lbs with a 2 wd tractor you can safely handle the HayMAX 280 disc mower. That means a tractor like a Ford/New Holland 3930 will handle this mower. The key to reducing the needed HP is the shaft drive that has 1/3 less moving parts than a oil bath style cutterbar mower. Each cutting head has it's own lubrication. The cutting head uses about a tooth paste tube of EP-00 grease to lubricate the gear set. All the bearings are sealed Electric Motor Quality Bearings tested to 5000 RPM's, which is twice the needed speed. The oil bath mowers have allot of drag on their gears with each gear set pumping oil away from the bearings, that ads to the HP demand. Our HayMAX disc mowers can mow 90 degree straight up or 30 degree down below level all day long. You would never try this with a oil bath style mower because you will starve the elevated end for lubrication. So you say my hay fields would never need that extreme elevation but what about mowing around the side of the hill you just have to wonder how much lubrication is flowing up hill to the end disc. Using smaller more fuel efficient tractors means $$$ saved and less soil compaction as the larger tractors will do.
Certainly the oil bath style mowers will mow hay and do a good job but they will require larger tractors and more capital outlay for the hay producer to harvest their hay.

HM%20Cutting%20head.jpg
 
/ Questions on Disk Mowers
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Thanks for that info. Not sure if I’ll get one this year. But I will have one by next year. The sickle mower is becoming unreliable. A $5 part takes it out of service and it always seems to take 2 weeks to get that part in.
 
/ Questions on Disk Mowers
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I did look at the First Choice 2070, but it calls for a minimum of 65 HP. I downloaded the manual on the 280 and then went to the Lely website. They pointed me to the Vermeer website. Is the Hay Maxx mower the same mower as the Vermeer? The reason I ask is, I have a Case-IH dealer right up the road from me that sells Vermeer. He has good prices on tractors and parts, but is way high on any attachment. For example, I saved $150 on a simple Herd M-96 seeder by driving an extra 30 miles further to a John Deere Dealer. And he wanted an additional $50 to put the seeder together. The money I saved on the CCM tiller over the dealers around here was more than enough to pay for the seeder. But if the parts on the mowers are the same…..
 
/ Questions on Disk Mowers
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Well I was at a dealer today looking for a FEL. They actually had a disc mower on site. The first time I was able to look at one up close. A New Idea 3408, 7’10” model. My gosh that thing looks huge. Quoted a price of $7500. And when I mentioned the 9-foot model, they said they didn’t think my tractor could handle it. I mentioned the 45 HP requirement for the 9 footer, they said my tractor would be very tipsy on a slight hillside and didn’t recommend it. Just how heavy are those cutter bars? The majority of the weight seems to be behind the tractor. I’ll definitely have to move the right tire all the way in to run one. I also noticed only one hydraulic line going to the cylinder. I’m guessing you use the float position to let it back down. This future purchase is starting to make me nervous.
 
/ Questions on Disk Mowers #13  
TK,

I would recommend that you purchase a good used disc mower. I finally bought my first disc mower about 3 years ago. It was a 6 disc, 7' - 10" NH (260 model, I believe) and I ran it on an open station Case 485 (42 HP). The Case is a pretty heavy tractor and yours is somewhat heavier. No problems on hilly land at all. My hay fields are clean, but I wore sunglasses or safety glasses to ensure that nothing hit me in the eye because they will sling junk occasionally. It will cut wet grass, downed grass, giant wet anthills, etc. - all at a higher ground speed than the sickle. It will make you wonder how you ever got by with a sickle mower. I still have my NH 451 sickle, but never use it.

Of course, if your usage can justify a new one, go that route. When I bought my first one, I didn't know anything about them and ended up having to rebuild most of it. After that, I wasn't afraid of them anymore and have cut wide open ever since with no problems.
 
/ Questions on Disk Mowers
  • Thread Starter
#14  
A used one? I was at the dealer Thursday and that was the first one I ever laid eyes on. Much less find a used one. Just about everyone around here uses the mower-conditioner. And even those are worn out by the time a farmer gets rid of it. I keep hearing good things about this type of mower. If your 485 can handle the 7’10” model, my 685 should handle the 9’2” model with no problem. I have a 484. This tractor is way more stable than the 484. I’ll put the 685 on a hillside I wouldn’t dare take the 484 on. But that is for bush hogging. Not mowing hay.
 
 

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