Questions on GC2600 deal

[JMER]

Good Morning,

I've been shopping for a SCUT or CUT for several months now and have it narrowed down to the GC2600 (last one on lot) w/FEL and loaded rear tires for $11,500 out the door. Other option is BX2360 w/FEL for 12k out the door. I can get better financing w/the GC (2.9 for 72 months or 0 for 60) vs. 0 for 60 on the BX.

I'm really leaning towards the 2600 mainly because I like the dealer. I'm only apprehensive on the 3 point hitch control. I plan to do a lot of box blading and I've heard the lack of position control or even 1/4inch like the BX can be a real pain in the butt. So I have two questions I"m hoping y'all can help me with:
1 - What are your techniques on the 2600 for controlling the 3PH using a box blade (such as when you want to just raise it a little bit to deposit dirt you've collected
2 - What are some things you think I could ask dealer to add to the deal to sweeten it a little besides coming off price? I was thinking tooth bar but not sure if that is asking too much and if it would prevent me from using the FEL to help grade/level dirt (wouldn't teeth leave marks rather than a smooth surface).

I plan initially to level high spots, fill in low spots... clear some small areas of brush, clear out some bigger logs/fallen trees, do landscaping chores/digging, tilling a garden, prep lawn for seeding.

Thanks everyone!

 

[bakerg]

I use a box blade on my GC2400, and there is a knob you can turn that is between your legs that adjusts the speed at which your 3ph moves. If your move the lever to raise and lower the 3ph, you can move the lever slowly and set your height. Not very accurate as it is being set by eye but it works for me.
Only thing I suggest from the dealer is a block heater if it gets cold in your area.

 

[murphy1244]

Good Morning,

I've been shopping for a SCUT or CUT for several months now and have it narrowed down to the GC2600 (last one on lot) w/FEL and loaded rear tires for $11,500 out the door. Other option is BX2360 w/FEL for 12k out the door. I can get better financing w/the GC (2.9 for 72 months or 0 for 60) vs. 0 for 60 on the BX.

I'm really leaning towards the 2600 mainly because I like the dealer. I'm only apprehensive on the 3 point hitch control. I plan to do a lot of box blading and I've heard the lack of position control or even 1/4inch like the BX can be a real pain in the butt. So I have two questions I"m hoping y'all can help me with:
1 - What are your techniques on the 2600 for controlling the 3PH using a box blade (such as when you want to just raise it a little bit to deposit dirt you've collected
2 - What are some things you think I could ask dealer to add to the deal to sweeten it a little besides coming off price? I was thinking tooth bar but not sure if that is asking too much and if it would prevent me from using the FEL to help grade/level dirt (wouldn't teeth leave marks rather than a smooth surface).

I plan initially to level high spots, fill in low spots... clear some small areas of brush, clear out some bigger logs/fallen trees, do landscaping chores/digging, tilling a garden, prep lawn for seeding.

Thanks everyone!

Go to the dealer have him put a boxblade on and play. I think you might have some trouble with the 3 point.

 

[JMER]

Well, I finally made a decision - going with the MF GC2600. Really liked the dealer and they got me tractor w/FEL, tooth bar, free 50 hour service, loaded tires, box blade and spike harrow for under $12,500 out the door. It was the last 2600 they had before being replaced w/the new tier 4 compliant model. Yep, that knob bakerg referenced really helps with controlling 3PH, I think it'll do fine for what I'm doing. It doesn't get all that cold here so no block heater but I'm really happy with the deal I got. Got everything I wanted and stayed within budget.

I'm going to get a used lawn tractor for now for the 1/3 acre bermuda sod to mow this summer... Once I get the fescue growing well next season I may get the MMM for the tractor but for now this equipment setup will meet my needs and keep me in budget!

 

[bakerg]

I hope you enjoy your tractor as much as I enjoy mine. Welcome to the Massey Ferguson GC series club.:thumbsup:

 

[JMER]

Thank you sir! I'll get some pics up there hopefully next week. One question I had for you - how often do you take the MMM off and about how long does it take you/did it take you the first couple times?

 

[bakerg]

Taking it off is the easy part, I do it with the FEL on and takes about 5 minutes, putting it back on maybe 10 minutes as it takes a little time to put the pto shaft back on.

 

[drifter2518]

+1 to what he said ^

 

[radrock]

Congrats on your new tractor JMER. I'm glad you stay with red. I'm sure you will be happy!

 

[HellBender]

To slow your 3pt hitch lower your RPMs. This will make it less responsive and easier to control.

I sometimes remove my deck few times a week to use my fel. It gets in the way if doing any major fel work. Check this post out. It made rolling my deck so much easier and can be removed or installed in just a few minutes. Helps to raise the front tires 2" for some needed clearance. Drive front tires onto 2x6 blocks or lift with fel.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...erating/215484-my-mower-deck-mods-cg2600.html

 

[JMER]

Great idea on slowing RPMs, appreciate it HellBender! Here are a couple pics of the new addition. Put 8 hours on her this weekend, graded and seeded part of the front yard this weekend, just in time for the hours of rain last night and this morning. Did great, got slowed a few times digging in too much with box blade and trying to take too big of a load w/FEL but overall did an excellent job!

 

[Don87]

Congrats on the purchase. Glad to hear you are having fun with your new toy.....er........I mean tool

 

[radrock]

JMER, You won't want to go to sleep at night when it warms up a little, of course it is probably already warm in your part of the country. Glad you are having fun!

 

[irvingj]

JMER, here's a simple suggestion for removing the MMM, providing you have a relatively smooth concrete surface to use:

I take a pair of 1/32" thick plastic sheets and place them under the non-swiveling caster wheels so they can easily slide sideways, and simply slide the mower out to the right side of the tractor, after disconnecting and removing the PTO shaft and the front mounting hardware. Been thinking about drilling holes to rotate the wheels, but the plastic's just too easy.

This works well for me, and I have turf tires-- but still don't need any additional clearance. Takes me only a few minutes (certainly less than 10) to remove or install this way. Hellbinder's right, though-- that MMM will really get in the way if you do any ground work. WBB

 

[JMER]

Good to know, I'll give the plastic a shot if I end up getting the MMM. Looking at rear flail mowers too, but if I could get attach/detach down to a few minutes I don't think it would take any more time than a flail mower attach/detatch would. Thanks guys.

 

[irvingj]

Absolutely! I haven't timed it lately, but I really think removal is only about 4-5 minutes... putting it on takes a bit longer, due to getting the driveshaft rotated correctly so it lines up; I put some white-out stripes on it to help in that regard. I don't have a lot of experience with 3-point hitch devices, but it takes me 20 minutes --at least-- to put on my tiller. For me, MMM is far easier to install & remove.

The nice thing about these MMMs is that they do such a nice job of cutting grass --very smooth, no "misses"-- and I haven't had any trouble with relatively high grass --though my grass tends more to dry rather than wet, which I know makes it easier.

I also removed the flapper door altogether, mainly so it will fit in its narrow parking spot, but discovered the grass clippings also get dispersed very well as a result; no windrows. (Also works great to blow leaves & debris- that thing makes quite a lot of wind!) WBB