Questions on log slidding, check this out.

   / Questions on log slidding, check this out. #31  
Toad,

Amen to that!!

I often wonder how The Force gets anything done, since, if they follow "The Code", they won't attempt anything themselves that might entail any type of risk at all. Do they hire someone else to do it, or, does it just not get done? I wonder...:rolleyes:

I think I've got enough steel to work up something like that for my dad. He got those logging tongs, and I just don't think he's going to be happy with them pulling them with the 3ph drawbar, it just won't lift high enough. Your attachment is just the ticket... I hope you won't mind if I copy your basic design ;)
 
   / Questions on log slidding, check this out. #32  
I have a high voltage pole line through one corner of my property. ROW 60 feet wide. The tree trimmers just came by and did some serious work. Asked me if I wanted the firewood Sure. Now I have to move 20-30 logs . At least it is flat but wet so when frozen is better. Like now. So I have read the posts about pulling logs and the COG and the draw bar and so on. I
am heading for the low cost alternative which is the Norwood 3pt kind of thing but I have a question. What about these things Big bucks but interesting. My question is about the COG seems like it's up there.
 

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   / Questions on log slidding, check this out. #33  
That grapple should work pretty well if you've got the money to spend on it. To me, it's just as easy to fabricate a unit such as ToadHill's, and wrap a chain around the log and go. Maybe not quite as fast, but a heckuva lot cheaper, and still gets the job done quite effectively.

Ever since my Dad and I started dragging logs way back in the early 80's, we only used the 3PH drawbar and a chain, that's it. No problems whatsoever, other than occasionally hooking up to too much log with not enough tractor. You know what happens then? Nothing... you don't go anywhere. Cut the log in half, and away you go. Never flipped anything yet, and we've dragged a LOT of logs, up hills, down hills, through creeks, you name it, we've probably done it or something similar.

As far as CG (and if you want to get technical, it's NOT Center of Gravity, but pull point) with that grapple and Toad's device, yes, it will be higher. However, what the SafetyPolice don't realize or take into account, is that if you can raise the end of the log at the tractor, so that the log is only dragging at the rear end, you reduce the amount of power you need to drag that log, as the majority of it is on wheels now and not dragging on the ground. Now you have transformed most of your load into a carried load, just like using a carryall, with just a very small tractive load. If you've got the end of the log raised up, then most everything you could get hung up on with the end of that log will go under the end of the log, and the log will slide right over it.

OK, so now what if you hook up to a big one, and your front wheels lift a bit? No big deal there either, if you've got your brain engaged, like Toad said. Stop pulling. Add some front end weight. Most of us have FEL's, so just get a scoop of dirt, come back and drag the log. Or cut it off so it's not quite as big of a load, and make 2 trips.

Even if you do raise the front end, the tractor will not flip over using Toad's device... as the front comes up, the back goes down, removing the weight of the log from the rear wheels of the tractor. When this happens, you don't have nearly as much traction, the wheels start to slip, and the front end will stop raising, once the pull point lowers to the plane of the axle. With Toad's device (and the grapple), that happens very quickly, and the front does not raise very far. And once it gets there, it's very difficult for it to go any further. Toad's will go higher than the grapple, but neither one will allow the tractor to flip.

So, why does a tractor flip then when when you hook up high on the tractor, like at the center link attach point. Simple. Just look at how far the tractor has to rotate around the axle for the pull point to reach the plane of the axle!! The nose of the tractor can raise up to 90 degrees and beyond and it still hasn't gotten there yet. It's all about geometry, and available traction.
 
   / Questions on log slidding, check this out. #34  
ToadHill said:
I don't use tongs, just the chain, I wrap the slip hook around the log, raise the unit just high enough to get one end off the ground and away I go. If I'm hooking on small logs, I'll use both ends of the chain to haul 2 pieces.
It looks like it would work with a shorter upright. At least in that picture. Do you find the extra height useful for any other jobs? Or did you just happen to have a piece of steel that length?
 
   / Questions on log slidding, check this out. #35  
It could have been shorter, I just used the steel I had.
 
   / Questions on log slidding, check this out. #36  
Very good post xlr82v2. I was taught that when you're driving the tractor, only 1 hand on the steering wheel. The other hand is on whatever has the load (in this case, the 3pt lever). At first sign of trouble, DROP THE LOAD.

Although, as seen in the movies that were on the link that MossRoad posted, we had better get the clutch pushed in as well.

Having pulled many logs from the 3pt, I have had the front wheels "dancing" many times. Hand was always on the 3pt lever, and foot hovering over the clutch. Just engage brain, go slow and be ready to react WHEN bad stuff happens.
 
   / Questions on log slidding, check this out. #37  
snafukelly said:
I am sure many of you would love to build something like this.
Just a thought.

[[[(Note: Removed link to eBay auction for log skidder -- TBN does not allow live links to eBay or other auctions, web sale sites, etc. Thanks.) ]]]Hakim Chishti, TBN Moderator
[[[THANKS.:( Im sure everyone appreciates that.:rolleyes: ]]]
larry
 
   / Questions on log slidding, check this out. #38  
SPYDERLK said:
[[[THANKS.:( Im sure everyone appreciates that.:rolleyes: ]]]
larry

One of the reasons for removing e-bay links is because of all of the tractor sale scams going on there. ;)
 
   / Questions on log slidding, check this out. #39  
jimmer2880 said:
Very good post xlr82v2. I was taught that when you're driving the tractor, only 1 hand on the steering wheel. The other hand is on whatever has the load (in this case, the 3pt lever). At first sign of trouble, DROP THE LOAD.

Although, as seen in the movies that were on the link that MossRoad posted, we had better get the clutch pushed in as well.

Having pulled many logs from the 3pt, I have had the front wheels "dancing" many times. Hand was always on the 3pt lever, and foot hovering over the clutch. Just engage brain, go slow and be ready to react WHEN bad stuff happens.

Exactly.

It's all part of the ETBBETM (engage the brain before engaging the machine) concept ;).

I just hope my post was a little clearer than mud. It's easy for me to visualize and understand what's going on, but it's entirely different to translate it into words and put it on the computer in a meaningful way that others can understand.
 
   / Questions on log slidding, check this out. #40  
xlr82v2 said:
.....It's easy for me to visualize and understand what's going on, but it's entirely different to translate it into words and put it on the computer in a meaningful way that others can understand.

I hear you... Something frequently gets lost going from the chair to the keyboard. :rolleyes:
 

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