Snow Attachments Quick Attach Snow Plow

[Diamondpilot]

I would add the power angle. I have it on my Meyer plow like yours. Could not live without it. I run it off my remotes. Like others said its not worth the effort to me to shorten it. Just use it as is. You may have to add shoes to the QA plate if you plan on running the loader in float to keep it from digging in. Actually, you will need them. As you can see on mine I lower the loader to about 1' off the ground then the blade rides over the terrain floating via the lift chain like 99% of snow plows do.

I have since changed over to Western Shoes and they work much better. Just made bushings for them to fit.

Chris

 

[some zilch]

witjh only 2 trip springs, that plow is going to "fold over" all the time. mine does, and its only 1ft from the QA plate. the weight of the loaders arms, even in float, puts alot more down pressure on the plow that it was designed to handle. it certainly can be made to work, but some re-engineering may be on tap. ive got under $100 into my 7ft meyers blade on a QA plate.

 

[srs]

witjh only 2 trip springs, that plow is going to "fold over" all the time.

Just tighten up the springs to prevent the "fold over" issue.

 

[jmusser15]

Well I broke in the snow plow today and this is what I learned. I have a gravel driveway that is crowned for water runoff. The blade is rigidly attached to the quick attach plate. I am going to change it to a hinge attachment at the bottom of the quick attach plate and using a chain from the top to raise and lower it. The blade needs to float more vertically and also from side to side to accommodate the crown. If it doesn't I am constantly digging in the crowned portion just to keep the blade in contact with the surface on the other end. That is the plan for now. Other ideas welcome.

 

[beenthere]

jmusser

When I plowed my gravel drive that had the crown, I wouldn'g center the blade on the crown. I'd angle the blade and dump a windrow of snow just over the crown from one side and then push it on over on the next pass.

Only time I'd run the crown would be when there was ice pack and getting a little gravel from the crown just dusted the ice for great traction.

But you are right, there needs to be some side to side float of the blade to fit the profile of what you are plowing. Can't be too rigid. I have one pivot point and the blade flops side to side a bit around that pivot point.
You'll arrive at the best combination as you get more snow to plow. Ain't it great :cool2:

 

[Pat55]

My cousin has a similar set up he made for his Kabota. He used the "A" frame from a truck snow plow (like you have). To make it angle without having to get out of the seat, and without hydraulics (even though he has a remote hydraulic option) he attached a spring to one side only, then he made a cable control to disengage the pin that holds it at the selected angle. What he does to set the angle is this: The blade will automatically angle all the way to the right because of the spring being on the right side. If he wants it straight or angling to the left, he will pull up to a tree or something that won't get damaged, apply a little pressure by forward movement while he has the pin disengaged, then let up on the pin lever when the blade is in or near the wanted angle, and it locks back into place. He is cheap and lazy, so I would expect this type of mad scientist engineering from him.............actually it works pretty good and he is somewhat gifted in regards to designing things.

 

[Diamondpilot]

witjh only 2 trip springs, that plow is going to "fold over" all the time. mine does, and its only 1ft from the QA plate. the weight of the loaders arms, even in float, puts alot more down pressure on the plow that it was designed to handle. it certainly can be made to work, but some re-engineering may be on tap. ive got under $100 into my 7ft meyers blade on a QA plate.

I do not run it in float and have been using it for 3 years now with zero tripping issues unless I dig into the grass at the end of the run. I plow about 10 drives and 2 miles of private road right now and have had as much as 17" on the ground at one time.

Chris

 

[radman1]

Diamondpilot

Like you, I only have 2 springs on my snow plow and don't have much issue tripping the plow. Only trips if I catch it on something. When it trips, it really catches and give the tractor a jolt. I would not want more springs. I also don't run the FEL in float. That would be way too much weight on the blade. It is just the weight of the blade on the ground and chains used to raise it just like your pictures. When pushing deep snow, the full blade of snow will push on the top and also keep the blade from tripping. I bought my Meyers blade for $75 with cylinders at an auction. Best $75 ever spent and modified for a skid steer plate.

I would also definitely keep the power angle on the blade and not do it manually.
If you look at snow plows designed for skid steer they are nearly always rigidly mounted to the attachment plate and then to the skid. The pickup truck plows will float and angle over the surface which is what I want. The only advantage to the rigid mount would be the ability to apply down pressure for packed snow. In those cases, I use the weight of my rear blade which is near 700 lbs or I would use the FEL bucket. On gravel, I use the shoes but carry most of the weight on the blade on the FEL to keep it from digging in the gravel. This past year I poured cement driveway and I run with the plow on the surface and no shoes.

 

[DonRICT]

nice pic, Ray.

 

[Bigturk]

Hi guys,

I have a power angle blade on my DK40 made by Horst Engineering in Ontario.
HORST WELDING | HLA >> 2000 SERIES

I am new to plowing snow and starting to appreciating some of the things engineered into this plow. It is a quick attach skidsteer set up that pivots a few inches from side to side. Like many of you I cannot use it in the float position on gravel, not enough traction on front wheels to steer tractor. I was surprised how little angle will push tractor sideways very easilly. By tilting blade forward/back with bucket dump control, I can lift the cutting edge off the ground and run on the skids. Or tilt the cutting edge forward to dig up a little stone to get some needed traction on icy hills. By having a blade attached to the FEL allows me to push the snow banks back and much higher than a pickup could.

So far I'm enjoying winter.