Snow Attachments Quick Attach Snow Plow

[jmusser15]

I picked up this quick attach snow plow for my tractor locally for $500. I thought it was a pretty good deal and couldn't pass it up. I would like to modify it just a little to try and shorten the distance between the quick attach plate and plow. I have seen some others on this site but I am open to ideas and suggestions you all might have on how to accomplish this. I would also like to upgrade it to hydraulic angle as well.

 

[beenthere]

It's already for hyd. angle, just add the cylinders. Brackets are there.

For me, I'd shorten it by removing the FEL and attaching it to your front end. But that is me.

Nice find. All that shale must make for some wild trips to the snow blade.

 

[Thohow]

Hi jimusser
I have two questions to ask you:
1) Before you start to modify it to change it over to hydraulic you must need to know what the flow rate of the hydraulic pump on your machine? If your hydraulic pump puts out more that 14 GPM you may have to install a cushion valve or bypass valve on the plow a frame. Because if you don't install the valve when you go to hock up the hydraulic cylinders the psi could be fatal and blow the cylinders.

2) Does you machine have hydraulic aux? What this means on your machine do you have the hydraulic quick disconnect fittings to use hydraulic attachments? If not you can contact your machine local manufacture dealer to find out if your machine has it or look online.

If you need any more answers feel free to write back.
thanks
thohow

 

[Bison]

I think that blade is way to far ahead of the loader,i would cut the whole angle system off and have the blade close up to the quik attach,hinge it one side and use a hydr cyl to angle it

 

[bill ns]

Great deal for 500$ You are ready for a cylinder by the looks of it . I would shorten up that A - frame that the plow pivots on to where the angle of the blade almost touches the quick connect frame . You don't need a lot of angle either . I would also beef up that pivot point it looks like it should have a plate on the bottom where the pin goes through . The way it is now it will probley bend down before the springs even get a chance to work . all in all a interesting project keep us updated .

 

[Thomas]

Great deal for $500 setup.
Do think some kind of rear weight maybe needed..long front reach.

 

[jake98]

Nice find! I'd just use it first, maybe you don't need to modify it..

 

[lhfarm]

I believe that is a Meyer plow like mine and the hydraulic cylinders are available on e-Bay. All the mounting hardware is still there. I used my rear remote to control movement. Here is a thread - http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/189585-slowing-snow-plow-movement.html

I'm looking at a different mounting arrangement to move my blade closer to the front of the tractor too. What I have now does work well. I have the plow "floating" (like the original truck mount) as opposed to the solid mount that you have.

Good luck!

 

[RoyJackson]

I'd shorten that "A Frame" a bit (but you'll need to modify the pivot plate too). However, I would get the hydraulic cylinders (for fitting) first to ensure you don't make it too short.

 

[ray66v]

From what I see, this design lacks the ability to float.

An upgrade would be to hinge the attachment points to the plate. Then, add some sort of stop under the hinges, or a chain hung above the plate, down to the plow, to stop it from just hinging down when you want to pick it up.

Adding some slop to the bolt in the front where the plow rotates will also be helpful, so it can rotate slightly. If the drive has flat areas that quickly change to sloped ones, the plow needs to be able to drop one side, and raise the other, to follow that.

Using it the way it is now, you could end up putting twisting pressures on the FEL. So, don't go at it really hard when using it, until you get some idea what it will do to the machine.

 

[srs]

Nice find! I'd just use it first, maybe you don't need to modify it..

I agree with Jake. Before you do any modification see if this works ok for you. I have a similar set up which I bought and have absolutely no complaints. There will always be arguments about the blade being out so far but before you go messing around with this "just try it, you may like it".

 

[nybirdman]

I have a very similar set-up with power angle,after useing for two years I don't think it is worth the expense of adding power angle to yours.Just use with manual angle.Add some rear weight and float your FEL.

 

[JohninCT]

A lot of the tractor plow conversions I've seen hang the "A Frame" under the quick attach plate. Looking at your first pic you could cut off the angle braces and the round bar handles. Then weld a "U" bracket to the flat cross brace and the mating bracket with pivot pin to the bottom of the quick attach plate. Then attach a chain between the front of the "A" frame to a chain hook welded to the top of the quick attach plate to support the plow weight when you lift it.

For the hyd angle as others have said just try to find plow cylinders that fit that model plow and plug them in to your tractors aux hydraulic ports.

 

[jmusser15]

I do have rear hydraulics on the tractor to run the lines from to the FEL. I am not sure of the flow rate, I will need to check the specs on that before upgrading to hydraulic cylinders. I am going to try the plow before I modify the connection to the quick attach plate to see how it handles but I know reducing the distance from the quick attach connection will reduce the torque on the loader arms/frame. Adding the hydraulic cylinders is definitely a want and not a need in my case. Probably better off saving the money for another attachment.

 

[beenthere]

For me, I'd never go back to manual angle.
Too many times where changing the angle makes plowing faster and in some cases necessary to keep the front end from sliding to the side. I'm making angle changes constantly when clearing snow.

Too much flow can be handled by putting in some restrictors. Shouldn't be a problem for you.

 

[SHORT KID]

I have a similiar Meyers setup with power angle and I love it. i built mine during a snow storm and had to use my neighbors drive as a proving ground. During a real big snowfall I piled snow as high as my lamposts along my driveway. I can actually walk under my cutting edge when it is raised. Just use it for a while and I am sure you will like the way it works, it looks like it was well built. :thumbsup:

 

[PILOON]

On my set up, I attached the Aframe pivots to a plate that I dropped down from my loader subframe. That kept the blade tucked in real close to the tractor.

For good control you really want that blade as close as possible to the tractor otherwise when angled you will find the snow load pushing your front off to the opposite side of the angle.

For simple lift, I use a suitable length of chain that attaches to the front area of the Aframe and the bottom center of the loader frame cross support.
Raising and lowering the loader controls plow up/down and the bucker tilt plumbing is then available for the angle circuit.

Those Meyer plows use 16" single action cylinders, cheap and commonly available.

 

[Red Horse]

JM,
Nice set up. I cast my vote with those who say-"don't worry about the length of the arms". I have a similar Meyers set up on my JD 3320. I also say go for the hydraulics if your budget allows. I rigged up an old blade on my 755 and what a difference having the ability to angle makes on the 3320.

Like you I'm plowing on gravel. Bit of a pain until you get a lot of frost in the ground- I really should get or make some shoes.

And you will need the the cross cushion valve. I ordered mine from the Surplus Center in Lincoln NE (item no 9-6016) and it cost me $61.20 inc. UPS in Nov of 05

Pix attached -also pix of nmy wt block- comes in handy-figure its about 500 pds, plus chains plus 64 gallons of Balastar in the tires

PS my 3320 had the third valve so I just bought the third function hose kit to run it to the front of the loader.

 

[lhfarm]

JM,
Like you I'm plowing on gravel. Bit of a pain until you get a lot of frost in the ground- I really should get or make some shoes.

My plow came with shoes and they just dug in on the gravel before it had frozen. So I couldn't use them on the first snow. However, once the ground was frozen, the shoes are great.

 

[ray66v]

Here are the best shoes for gravel: