Quick Change System Recommendations?

[HobbleCreek]

After taking half an hour last night to get my rear blade detached, I'm thinking hard about a quick attach system of some kind and looking for recommendations.

I'm not keen on extending the length of the draft links any more than necessary, but I would like a system that will work with as many implements as possible at the most reasonable price. My tractor is a JD 4720, so the Deere iMatch is one possibility. Other options include Pat's system that is advertised here on TBN. What are your collective thoughts about these and other systems?

Thanks,

Grant

 

[5103Owner]

I own the Imatch hitch it's great makes switching attachments
soooo much easier. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif Pat's system will probably fit more
attachments, because you can adjust the width. But then you
still have to attach the top link, both my blade and mower
(the only 3pt implements I have right now) measure the
same distance between the two lower pins so I chose Imatch.
But if you have implements that different width pins Pat's
system would be better. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[kennyd]

I vote for the I-Match /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[rambler]

My understanding is the 'I-Mach' is just John Deere's name for a Quick Hitch, of which there are many different makes, for probably less $$$$? I'd at least shop around a bit....

They work slick, except for 2 problems: 3pt equipment that has different widths between the lower pins. Not so often, but it does crop up. You won't be able to use any cat 2 stuff with your quick hitch for sure....

Other problem is the top link - many implements are at a different hieght for the top link pin, or there is bracing or other stuff in the way of getting the hook into the top link.

If any of your implements are of an odd dimention, then you need to have them modified - with torch & welder - or trade for something standard - to make them work with the quick hitch.

That is where Pat's is better - it will conform to irregular implements. Plus is cheaper to start with, and wieghs less so doesn't cut into your lift ###.

If all your implements are identical & fit, the quick hitch is a wee bit easier to hook things up on.

--->Paul

 

[jmc]

If you just got the tractor, you might hold off on the quick attach system until you get a little more practice changing implements. It should only take several minutes to drop an implement, especially if your lower links have the new telescoping ends.

 

[HobbleCreek]

I appreciate that thought. It's worth me asking for tips on removing implements. The trouble I was having the other night was removing my rear blade. I couldn't get the bottom links to free up so I could remove the pins. I was finally able to get the pins out, but it took a lot of lifting the very heavy rear blade and pulling/wiggling the pins out. It might have been a more pleasant chore had I remembered by gloves!

Any tips on getting those pins to come free would be greatly appreciated.

 

[jmc]

Sounds like you did it the hard way. The trick is to get the weight and tension off the 3 pins. Without seeing your setup, I'd guess:

Set the blade on the ground just enough to get the weight off the top link so you can remove that pin.

Continue to lower the front of the implement onto a support or put the front clear down on the ground. Adjust the side link crank to remove the weight from that lower link and remove that pin.

Raise or lower the 3 PH to get the implement weight off the last lower pin. Also, don't adjust the 3 PH too far lower than necessary because then you will have the weight of the 3 PH on your pin.

As you take the weight off each pins, watch the pin closely to see it "relax" as it becomes unloaded.

You may have to tweek the forward/backward tractor position to unload the pins horizontally as well. Releasing the telescoping mechanisms, if your lower links have them, will do this too.

After thinking about this, the next time I mount an implement, I'm going to try putting a light coating of grease on the pins. Still, it really doesn't take long to make the adjustments.

John

 

[andrewj]

I have a new I match i am trying to sell - would this be an appropriate time to discuss it?

 

[DirtRodder]

I purchased a Speaco and think its right up there with sliced bread. I would never go back to the old ways. The Speaco has an adjustable upper mount which may be of value to some, all in all it’s a great piece of equipment.

 

[Newblue]

Anybody around central Indiana want a free set of bushings for the speeco QH? I changed to Pats system and have no need for the implement bushings. Just PM me if interested.

Mike

 

[3RRL]

Hey John,
Your post just reminded me how glad I am to have Pat's EZ change system. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I will make a good comment too...there was a thread a while ago that had concerns about whether you could tilt your implement such as a box blade with Pat's system. The concern was that the lower arms have ball joints to allow sideways tilting and Pat's does not.
I was able to tilt the heck out of my boxblade sideways to cut some gutters with Pat's system and it worked fine. It never came apart nor did the lower link pins slip out.

 

[JustGary]

<font color="blue"> "If you just got the tractor, you might hold off on the quick attach system until you get a little more practice changing implements" </font>

That's pretty good advice. I don't remember how long it took to get my 5' mower off the first time I needed to remove it (which was when I got it home and the tiller was on the trailer waiting its turn to meet my yard). I fought it for quite a while and then figured out that those links are adjustable for a reason. To make it worse, the tires only allow just enough room to clear the ends of the lower pins on my mower.

Anyway, by the time I got the mower off and the tractor backed onto the trailer, then mounted the tiller, then dismounted the tiller in the yard, then mounted the mower again, I was frustrated (and bleeding). But, I was already better at it.

I started researching the various plates and quick changes, but most of the posts said to give it a fair try before adding more stuff to the 3PH. A few days later I went outside and studied the all of the link adjustments and then tried again. I think I had the mower off, the tiller on, the tiller off, and the mower back on in about 15 minutes. I no longer fear the hitch, I just change things as required.

Sometimes a well-placed boot really gets things started, so don't give up too easily before you buy anything you may not need.

Good luck!

- Just Gary

 

[HobbleCreek]

Thanks John,

I was kind of going over the process in my mind this morning as I was driving down the canyon. I think the problem I was having was caused in part by the uneven ground where I was unloading the blade. I was not able to get the weight of the blade off the pins. I'll try a few more times before I give up.

I've actually installed and uninstalled three-point implements quite a few times before -- on my grandpa's old tractors. Most of those implements had pins that were open on the outside. Thus, the well placed boot referred to by Gary was able to be quite a big help. Still, I think I'll get the hang of it with these new implements.

Thanks for the tips.

-- Grant

 

[rswyan]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( purchased a Speaco and think its right up there with sliced bread. I would never go back to the old ways. )</font>
I'm with ya all the way on this one brother. I have a Speeco as well and outside of having to take it off to mount my backhoe there is very little downside.

 

[MarkV]

Implements can be frustrating at times to change. Grant your last post where you mentioned “uneven ground” told me where your problem was. Nothing makes it harder to change an implement than it sitting at an angle. Find yourself a level area and see if it doesn’t go better for you. Some have mentioned using pallets to set implements on when even ground is at a premium.

I think the nicest quick hitch system is the Freedom Hitch system. With it you have an attachment plate that remains on the tractor and also one that remains on the implement. The problem is you have to buy a plate for each implement and it gets rather pricey if you have more than a couple of implements.

Some time in the past this was discussed and some thing CowBoyDoc mentioned stuck with me. The “well placed boot” method is something I always used and Doc brought up the fact that you can hurt your heel pretty bad doing that. He sees a good number of injuries caused by that method of persuasion.

 

[drm]

Relatively even (not necessarily level) ground is essential to a quick change of the TPH implements. My land is only level on the driveway pad so I use an area that has a even slope to it to store my implements.

A little practice and a straight alignment of the tractor to the implement gets things started right. Lower the TPH below the implement pins and get to within an inch +/- of the center pins.

Then extend telescoping arms if equipped (they are worth their price) and spread the arms as required. Raise the TPH with the tractor hydraulics (hurt my back several times being in a hurry and ended taking longer anyway trying to muscle them and/or the implement).

If you need some persuasion use a 4'+ length of 2x or a long pry bar. I keep both handy and on the brush hog sometimes even a short piece of 2x as blocking if it is not sitting level to the tractor.

This process sounds long but it really only takes only a few minutes if you go slow and take your time to line things up. This is one time going slow is faster (at least for me) and a lot less painful to the back and foot (a good kick can bruise your foot) the rest of the day.

The more I am around tractors the more I understand why it appears that some long time operators appear to be going about things slowly. They take their time to do it right and all goes better in the long run.

…Derek

 

[HobbleCreek]

I made the changes from blower to the blade last night and the blade to the blower again today. both times went much more smoothly than the other night. I appreciate all your tips. I think the biggest part of my problem the other night was that there was snow on the ground (causing the uneven ground) and preventing the stand from taking the weight off the pins.

I also made sure to watch a little more carefully to see when the weight came off the pins as I lowered the arms. I can still see that a quick change system could be useful, but I'm not as desperate as I was the other night. That's good. I can take my time and decide if I need any system, and if so, which will work best for me.

Thanks for all your tips.