Quick Connect Couplers Question…

[Hay Dude]

Another strategy I use for stubborn couplers is to take a block of wood, like a 1’ long piece of 2x4, carefully position the butt end of the block on the “shoulder” of the female coupler and give the block a couple whacks with a 2lb hammer.
That will also break it loose. Then get to the bottom of the reason why they are sticking.
BTW, when I look at those remotes, they look slightly rusted. I’d hit them good with some spray lubricant that rejects rust & moisture.

 

[TMGT]

OMG….. just choosing the correct flat faced coupler sucks. I ordered one set on amazon. Showed proper inlet thread size and everything. Got them the next day.

Thread pitch is wrong. Stupid amazon.

Heading into town to Parker store to get correct set. It will cost more, but at least they will fit.

I've been getting all my flat face couplers from here. Flush Face Set- Skid Steer Set-

Been using them for years, for the money they hold up very well, only had 1 leak and that was my own fault.

Sent from my SM-S921U using TractorByNet mobile app

 

[mustangmarty1967]

Already drained the fluid to flush out the hydraulic system. Yanking on them does nothing. Pushing in and pulling out in one continuous motion does nothing. Gonna soak them in penetrating fluid to see if that does any good.

I still can’t see any type of collar to try and tap loose and slide back.

 

[mustangmarty1967]

 

[grsthegreat]

I finally got mine apart…..cleaned them real good, shot compressed air thru it. Soaked on penetrating oil. Blow out again. Recoupled….stuck again

Picked up,a new set of parker couplers…yeiks. $196.00 for a set.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Already drained the fluid to flush out the hydraulic system. Yanking on them does nothing. Pushing in and pulling out in one continuous motion does nothing. Gonna soak them in penetrating fluid to see if that does any good.

I still can’t see any type of collar to try and tap loose and slide back.

The collar is inside the housing, you will not find it from the outside, because it is inside the outer housing. I am assuming that the male end does not push in at all? If that is the case, then lots of penetrating fluid and time.

 

[LouNY]

The Pioneer part is the male portion of the quick connect. Using a good penetrating oil soak the seam of the female section,

My arrow just barely shows up, soak that seam good and push and pull till it starts to move repeating the spray and soak till the male portion starts moving, eventually it will disconnect.

 

[SPYDERLK]

The Pioneer part is the male portion of the quick connect. Using a good penetrating oil soak the seam of the female section,
View attachment 4530373
My arrow just barely shows up, soak that seam good and push and pull till it starts to move repeating the spray and soak till the male portion starts moving, eventually it will disconnect.

Also twist the plug side back and forth a bit to help mobilize sticking components. A little warmth should help too. Try a hair dryer for a couple hours.

 

[Sportsman762]

The TN75 uses 5179558 for the rear remotes. The OEM is Faster 4SRPV with a male M22-1.5 DKOL o-ring thread. They are a push pull connector. You could try to beat the coupler in then pull with a sudden jerk to see if it will pop free.

https://www.fastercouplings.com/files/productsSeries/pdfSheets/ProductSerieSheet-4SRPV-en.pdf

 

[mojoinco]

My experience with a sister model (TN55S). These are the deluxe model couplers. If you don't use them enough they get debris or rust in them and do not want to comply. I replaced 3 of my 4 over the years with typical ISO connectors (same as what came on the cheaper models, etc). If I changed hoses much I would see a reason for the breakaway style. IIRC, they are around 3x the price of a traditional sliding collar connector.