Quick connect jumper cables

[Skyco]

Yep those Anderson connectors are great, I've used them on several things including big ones for the winch on my truck. The winch is receiver mount so I can place it on either end of the truck. Ran a pair of 00 cables to the rear for it.
FYI the rubber plugs seal the front but the rear is still open and stuff can get in anyway unless you silicone up the back after assembly.

The burning question in my mind is how did BX24 get the hood/cowl off with the front guard still on:licking:

 

[bx24]

Yep those Anderson connectors are great, I've used them on several things including big ones for the winch on my truck. The winch is receiver mount so I can place it on either end of the truck. Ran a pair of 00 cables to the rear for it.
FYI the rubber plugs seal the front but the rear is still open and stuff can get in anyway unless you silicone up the back after assembly.

The burning question in my mind is how did BX24 get the hood/cowl off with the front guard still on:licking:

All you have to do is not pay attention when you have a log in the bucket and accidently drop it backwards onto the hood! The dealer quoted me somewhere around 200 for a new "lid". Since the tractor needed maintenance anyways, I took off the rest of the cowl to do that work. I really hate how much they block access to everything. Right now I am leaning towards making my own version of a new hood and cowl from sheet metal (with good access to things). Until I get there though, I thought it would be a good idea to put the front guard back on as I am running around "topless".

For those of you trying to figure out the size of the quick connects, you don't have to size them as they are rated. The listed rating is for continued amperage (ie battery chargers etc). They will handle short term spikes much higher than their rating (although bigger is good too!)

 

[bx24]

"topless"

 

[Fxfymn]

You can also get the quick connects from any marine dealer that sells powerwinches for boat trailers. See all the versions here:Trailer Parts Superstore

 

[chad22]

"topless"

Wowy, wow, wow, wow. That is one smoking hot tractor. Is she single?

Or is it a male. In that case I don't date males, as I''m a male myself.:laughing:

I'm looking for a woman.

Anyway back to the topic. That looks like a great idea. Now you got me wanting to mount some to my riding mower. That I have to sometimes jumpstart.

Chad

 

[BXinNH]

BX24,

This is off-topic, but what/why do you have mounted in your FEL bucket in the "topless" picture?

Thanks,
Matt.

 

[Baby Grand]

BX24,

This is off-topic, but what/why do you have mounted in your FEL bucket in the "topless" picture?

Thanks,
Matt.

My guess is he wants to avoid a repeat of the event that caused the demise of his hood?

 

[Train]

Skyco, I'd like to run a set to the back of my 03 Dodge. What's the best way to hook up a heavy cable to the power source?

 

[Willl]

What's the best way to hook up a heavy cable to the power source?

I used a disconnect on mine, didn't want that cable live all the time.

Also only used one cable, frame works as the ground.

Here's the disconnect I used.

 

[Train]

I like that. I asume that's a removable key. But I mean what's the best connection to an actual power source on a newer truck? Straight of the + post or somewhere else? Also what type of connector for that?

 

[Willl]

Straight of the + post or somewhere else? Also what type of connector for that?

Yes, key removable, although it don't make a diff if it was or not.

Yes, straight off the post.

I made up my own cable with an eyelet on the end.

If you have one of those propane torches you can build one for yourself.

I'll slip some boots on and grab some pics.

 

[IC Smoke]

excellent idea!!! time to order some parts :thumbsup:

 

[jenkinsph]

For all of those running long leads off of the battery make sure you have an inline fuse right at the battery in case your leads get shorted.

 

[Willl]

Correction, that would be 2 cables.

 

[pat32rf]

The Anderson/Warm/? connectors come in two basic SIZES, large and small. Each size comes in different current ratings however. The only difference is the hole that the wire goes into in the end of the actual connecting pieces. When making the connections you should solder the wire in, (use resin core solder) rather than trying to crimp it. If you solder you get a much better connection plus you can always re-use them elsewhere if you want to change something.
If you buy the largest current rating for each size, then you will always be able to get your wire into the hole, and since its soldered it doesn't matter if the hole is oversize.
Either way, when you make the final assembly, squeeze some dielectric grease onto ALL the metal parts, even any exposed copper wire to prevent corrosion.
Most people find the rubber protective plugs a PIA as they don't work to keep mud/salt/ice out. They might keep little fingers with screwdrivers or other stuff from "gumming up the works" however....

 

[pat32rf]

You can also connect your additional wire to the main starter lead by way of a Burndy connector. These will prevent loading up your battery posts with a bunch of extra joints that all tend to get dirty over time.
You just pick an accessible spot on your starter cable 6 to 60" away from the end and skin the insulation off. Stick the connector over the main cable and slide in your new cable. Tighten everything with wrenches, coat with grease/silicone/liquid tape, and then wrap with scotch (electrical) tape. (Make sure you don't short out the wrenches!)

 

[Train]

Thanks for posting those pics. I appreciate it.

 

[weedpharma]

....... When making the connections you should solder the wire in, (use resin core solder) rather than trying to crimp it. If you solder you get a much better connection plus you can always re-use them elsewhere if you want to change something.....

This is contrary to what I was taught as an apprentice. I suppose it depends on the type of cable and mounting. If large conductors or connector is fixed to the vehicle there should be no problem. IE, minimal bending.

Crimp is better if the conductors are very thin (welding cable) and the connector join is flexed a lot. The thin wire bends at the point of soldering and breaks eventually. With crimp, the wire flexes rather than bends.

Weedpharma

 

[Willl]

Yours bends right at the crimp.

Mine will bend right at the solder joint.

You take the high road, I'll take the low,,,,

 

[Willl]

The thin wire bends at the point of soldering and breaks eventually. With crimp, the wire flexes rather than bends.

Says you.