Quick hitch recommendations

[94BULLITT]

I have a HF quick hitch, an Imatch with fixed top hook and an imatch with an adjustable to hook. The imatches are better in just about every way. I do like the imatch with the fixed hook the best. The adjustable can interfere without modifications. The adjustable imatch is also made out of 2x3.5'' tubing and the one with the fixed hook is 2x4'' tubing. The HF is a copy of a speeco. I have looked at a speeco and I can't see where it is any better than the HF quick hitch. If I did not get an imatch I would go with a Land pride QH but the imatch is less money.

 

[jenkinsph]

Roger, nice video.

I prefer the IMatch with fixed hook also, do not see the point in an adjustable hook. Make all the implements fit the standard quick hitch measurements and don't look back.

 

[94BULLITT]

Roger, nice video.

I prefer the IMatch with fixed hook also, do not see the point in an adjustable hook. Make all the implements fit the standard quick hitch measurements and don't look back.

Thanks. I think it defeats the purpose of a QH if you have to adjust the top hook.

 

[mcfarmall]

Just for the fun of it I stopped into TSC this morning on the way back from the sandblasting place where I spent the morning blasting my new-to-you Farmall C rear rims. The didn't have any Cat 1 quick hitches in the yard so I asked about getting one in. They can special order one in for $279.99 + tax. I think I'm going to go with the Harbor Freight special for $99.99 - 20% off coupon.

Thanks for all the great replies and information!!

 

[jb1390]

Thanks. I think it defeats the purpose of a QH if you have to adjust the top hook.

This.

You will need to modify some implements to make them all fit the quick hitch. If you are doing that, it means you can weld, or know someone who can weld. If that is true, it's very easy to perform some basic mods to the quick hitch too. For that reason, I go for the harbor freight versions - they are way cheaper than anything else, and I see no reason to upgrade. The top hook on mine is welded, not adjustable, and all the implements are made to fit the hitch.

Harbor Freight all the way. Mods I've done to mine - receiver hitch in the top bar for moving my gooseneck, reinforced lower pin holes (Grade 8 lock washers welded), and removed bolts and welded top hook. It's held up well, and I don't use it lightly. My old tractor had a 3000 pound concrete block I ran as a counterweight on a HF hitch.

 

[mcfarmall]

This.

You will need to modify some implements to make them all fit the quick hitch. If you are doing that, it means you can weld, or know someone who can weld. If that is true, it's very easy to perform some basic mods to the quick hitch too. For that reason, I go for the harbor freight versions - they are way cheaper than anything else, and I see no reason to upgrade. The top hook on mine is welded, not adjustable, and all the implements are made to fit the hitch.

Harbor Freight all the way. Mods I've done to mine - receiver hitch in the top bar for moving my gooseneck, reinforced lower pin holes (Grade 8 lock washers welded), and removed bolts and welded top hook. It's held up well, and I don't use it lightly. My old tractor had a 3000 pound concrete block I ran as a counterweight on a HF hitch.

Right on jb1390 !! I can certainly make any necessary mods to the quick hitch and any implements. As a matter of fact, I'm currently re-designing and fabricating a new quick hitch compatable 3-point hitch on my 30 year old King Kutter brush cutter. Additionally, I have completely renewed my old Sears 3-point hitch conversion thingy on the Farmall C. 4 new swivelly balls, new Yanmar turnbuckle check chains and a host of other small improvements. Just called my local HF and they have one QH in stock and I'm headed over there to pick it up.

 

[Fallon]

Thanks. I think it defeats the purpose of a QH if you have to adjust the top hook.

Ya, I somewhat agree. Really though I only ever had to adjust my top hook for my rotary cutter. Every other implement either fit properly or got upgraded to fit.

The flex link for the rotary would pop out of the top hook unless I raised the hook way up. I probably could have just pinned the flex link to the QH instead of using the hook (think that's how it was designed). Really I didn't care to much as I only needed the link tight to road the machine or hang the mower over a ditch or something. If it popped out while mowing I'd often go hours after noticing before bothering to fix it.

 

[mcfarmall]

Picked up the HF quick hitch and here are my first impressions.

Top tube is 4" square and the vertical members are fabricated plate steel the same thickness as the wall thickness on the rectangular tubing on the JD iMatch quick hitch that I borrowed from a friend.
Gussets are fully boxed and much larger than the iMatch.
Lower hooks -adapter bushings fit nicely but there is about 1/4" of vertical movement before the bushing touches the latch plate...a bit much for my liking but I can probably remedy that with a little thought and the welder. iMatch has only about 1/32" vertical movement.
Upper hook - The 1.125" bushing was snug on one side of the opening...quickly remedied with a rat-tail file.
Upper hook thickness on HF is 1.187", Deere 1.000".
The upper hook adjustment bolts (2) on the HF are 13mm and the Deere (2) are 5/8" but figure that there are 2 bolts in a double shear situation and you could probably lift the entire tractor by the upper hook and not have a bolt fail in shear mode. 5/8" bolts are pretty much overkill for a top link in my opinion as the lower hooks should be carrying all the weight if the hitch is adjusted properly. The only significant tensile force on the upper hook would occur when the implement is raised.
Weld quality on the Deere is outstanding...looks like robotic welding cell stuff.
HF welds are comparable to an entry level college or career/technical center grade. Not the prettiest but probably typical for most Chinese sweat shop colleagues and not likely to fail either.
I used the 20% off any item coupon on the HF hitch so I got out of there for $84.79 including tax.

Overall, when you figure I saved $212-$265 over a CountyLine ($280), SpeeCo, or Deere ($350?) I think the HF is an outstanding value. The likelihood that I will break or damage it in my lifetime is pretty much non-existent.

Thanks again for all of your input, reviews, and ideas!

 

[JRobyn]

TnHobby, here's another example. I had Bennett Industries in Cookeville do this for me - welded on a 1-1/4 thick piece for the extension, then machine it down to exactly match the original thickness, then drill the two new holes. I paid $65, but also had some other work done for that, so the hook was maybe $45-$50.

 

[TNhobbyfarmer]

TnHobby, here's another example. I had Bennett Industries in Cookeville do this for me - welded on a 1-1/4 thick piece for the extension, then machine it down to exactly match the original thickness, then drill the two new holes. I paid $65, but also had some other work done for that, so the hook was maybe $45-$50.

View attachment 497042

JRobyn, looks like a good job by the welder/fabricator. Based on my limited experience so far with the HF QH, something like that is almost a necessity for seamless compatibility of attachments.

Attached is a pic of my altered hook. I actually milled 7/16" off the inside of the hook. I'm not sure if this was a good idea or not. The loss of stock obviously has weakened the hook, and I'm not sure if the 7/16 is enough to accomplish the needed result. I have not been to my property yet to give it a try. I'll report my thoughts once I try it out. If this doesn't work satisfactorily, I may have to somehow source another hook and use your solution