Traction R4344 - split brakes and traction lock

[Wombat125]

to clarify this is not a "practice" of mine.

Ben,
Apologies if my statements came across a little harsh.

It sounds like there is definitely something wrong with your diff lock. Most pedals I've seen push hard, but there shouldn't be any stomping involved.

I've heard of several cases of tough or sticky diff locks being the result of mis-adjusted or poorly lubricated external linkages. I would be really happy to hear that it was a simple problem like this in your case. Best of luck.

 

[simonsben]

Wombat125,

i appreciate your input and did not take offense to your statements - i apologize if i came across as defensive.

however, we are talking about a tractor that i really like that does happen to have a sizable investment tangled up in it so i guess some defensiveness is too be expected.

i hope i did not do an idiotic move to damage it further (i, from time to time, do stupid things and end up paying for it later ) but the dealer has assured me there is nothing wrong with the lock or the rear axle.

i am starting to disagree now that it is displaying a noise that is not melodious but more metalic/gear grind with the lock in the fully up position.

i have regular access to a gear driven JD 4300 that has 900 hours on it. its traction lock is nowhere near as difficult to engage/disengage as mine is. the JD is a neighbor's and it was purchased used.

thanks again for the input.

Ben

 

[Wombat125]

i am starting to disagree now that it is displaying a noise that is not melodious but more metalic/gear grind with the lock in the fully up position.

I am not an expert here, especially in Montanas, but I am inclined to agree with you. It sounds like the grinding might be the teeth on the differential lock collar almost but not quite engaging.

A diff lock is a fairly simple device. It is just a pedal (B) that moves a fork (M) to slide a splined collar (S) across the differential carrier to lock the two axle shafts together. Here is a diagram of mine.

I'm still going with the mis-adjusted or unlubricated linkage. It sounds to me like your lever is just sticky. Can you disconnect the linkage right before it goes into the differentail housing and at least make sure all of the external stuff moves freely?

Unless you're a rather stout fella literally jumping up and down on the pedal, I doubt you've done any damage.

 

[WEJ]

My dash has many pretty lights too... a 4340.... but only a few are wired to work... which are the brake light, PTO light, turn signals, other than that the rest are not wired up. I believe this is true of all Montanas....

 

[simonsben]

I'm still going with the mis-adjusted or unlubricated linkage. It sounds to me like your lever is just sticky. Can you disconnect the linkage right before it goes into the differentail housing and at least make sure all of the external stuff moves freely?

Unless you're a rather stout fella literally jumping up and down on the pedal, I doubt you've done any damage.

i have (along with the dealer a couple of times) taken all the linkage out, cleaned and lubricated the linkage, and checked the action of the lock (sans linkage).

they say it works as expected once everything is lubricated but i could not get it to easily engage literally saturated with PTFE. i have since cleaned any excess lube as to not attract debris.

i will be taking it to the dealer in august and i'll watch them try it out this time instead of leaving it for them to evaluate. this way i can be schooled on the proper action of engaging it... or i can school them on how difficult it is to engage.

i am not stout by any stretch of the imagination - i'm 5'7" and 130# with Muppet arms and a red neck - what i lack in size i make up for with patience and determination )

Ben

 

[Wombat125]

i will be taking it to the dealer in august and i'll watch them try it out this time instead of leaving it for them to evaluate. this way i can be schooled on the proper action of engaging it... or i can school them on how difficult it is to engage.

Sounds like the best plan. Please share your results here. We're invested now.

 

[simonsben]

Sounds like the best plan. Please share your results here. We're invested now.

ok - got the tractor back last week.

verdict from the dealer: the brakes.

apparently when i step on the inside brake to "throw the anchor" in a turn i am hearing the outside brake trying to (their word) "synchronize".

the dealer adjusted the brake and the pedal is quite a bit higher. when i tried the technique on their lot it seemed better and the noise was imperceptible. the service rep said this is a normal sound.

i was mowing this weekend - range selector was set on 3rd gear and the transmission was in 2nd gear and throttle was set to pto 540 RPM with pto engaged. i turned left, hit the left brake and the noise was still there - gear on gear scraping sound. it is virtually unchanged.

the traction lock was clearly not engaged and appears to be working normally (though it is still difficult to engage).

i feel like i want a second opinion on this but am unsure where to take it - would a heavy equipment service center be a good choice? should i take it back to the dealer? i am in the North Central Florida area.

 

[mwb]

When engaging your diff lock try driving forward slowly in a slight turn (if stuck then spin one wheel slowly). The splines have to be aligned to engage, chances are that if you are stopped the splines don't line up and stomping on the pedal doesn't help. To disengage, drive forward and turn side to side; if the axles are under load (wheels torqued in opposite directions) the lock will not disengage easily. When you steer to alternate sides the lock should disengage easily.

 

[simonsben]

thanks for responding

When engaging your diff lock try driving forward slowly in a slight turn (if stuck then spin one wheel slowly). The splines have to be aligned to engage, chances are that if you are stopped the splines don't line up and stomping on the pedal doesn't help. To disengage, drive forward and turn side to side; if the axles are under load (wheels torqued in opposite directions) the lock will not disengage easily. When you steer to alternate sides the lock should disengage easily.

right - the traction lock was clearly not engaged and appears to be working normally (though it is still difficult to engage - meaning the lever through the floor is not smooth).

the issue is:
i turned left, hit the left brake and the gear on gear grinding noise was still there. it is virtually unchanged.

is it the brakes or a partially engaged traction lock?

does your tractor make a noise if you split the brake and "throw an anchor" in the turn by stepping on the inside brake?

 

[mwb]

my 3940HST does not make any grinding noise if I lock one wheel. The hydostatic drive may complain slightly (whinning) because of the extra load but that is just normal.

Try this: jack up one rear tire off the ground, place range selector in neutral, 4x4 disengaged, ENGINE OFF, and try rotating the wheel by hand. If you have gear problems you should be able to feel it. You can also play with the diff lock while the wheel is off the ground, get an idea how it engages / disengages.

Cheers,
Mike