Racor filter on a bx24

[leonz]

I was wondering what the replacement interval is for the spin on cartridge (r12s) for the racor filter i have coming. Obviously if I get a bad batch of fuel or notice alot of crap in the bowl i would change it sooner, I am just wondering how often to replace it assuming everything is working as it should.

The minute that thing beguns to plug it runs like crap and if the crap volume is bad enough it will kill it dead and that tells you how good that are and how much crap is in the fuel.


We had a lot of roof drills that died when they were on diesel and the filters were plugged solid and you know that they were working and the engines smoked less.

 

[leonz]

Racor rates their compact filter units for 255 F.

Finding mounting space, under the hood, is another story.

you can always bolt it to the rops easily and run fuel line as you want it above the tank to aviod fuel loss while changing filters.

 

[JoeL4330]

doesn't mounting it above the tank mean that you have to clamp the line when changing the filter ...or, fuel drains out of the line and, even if you fill the bowl with fuel, you can end up "losing the prime" and a PITA starting problem ...or, instead of clamping, you need to be able to "pull a vacuum" on the line (or, pressurize the tank with your shopvac!)

 

[leonz]

No fuss no muss,


Bolt it to the ROPS and you avoid using a ball valve or GASP!, a pair of vise grips which will ruin the fuel tubing to shut the fuel off if its mounted below the tank.

Having it on the rops get it clear of the loader or loader arms, mower deck, snow blower etc.


The diesel fuel will go wherever it needs to go as long as the tank is filled with fuel and can pull it out due to the negative pressure gradient anyway so no worries.


The spin on units will require you to fill them prior to reinstalling them and then priming the system with the primer bulb .

The drop in cartridge units simply need to be primed at the lift pump or cheat and use a tiny tiny tiny bit of air pressure in the tank with the bleeder open.

 

[roma3112]

not having the filter assy yet I am just thinking that I would still like to mount it under the hood somehow. I know mounting it to the rops is a potential spot, but i would like to put it there as a last resort. I was thinking i could loop a few sections of fuel line from the suction side of the tank and the pump side, and bring those lines up under the hood to a suitable location (if found) to mount the filter.
As far as the valve goes my last hope is napa or a pluming supply house. I would like a shut off inline with the tank somehow. The problem with all the valves that I have found so far is that the restriction to fuel flow. These pet cock style valves are for like say an ice maker on your fridge. They just looked like they would create an unacceptable restriction to flow. I am hoping to go to napa in the AM and and try my luck.

 

[Shimon]

As far as the valve goes my last hope is napa or a pluming supply house. I would like a shut off inline with the tank somehow. The problem with all the valves that I have found so far is that the restriction to fuel flow. These pet cock style valves are for like say an ice maker on your fridge. They just looked like they would create an unacceptable restriction to flow. I am hoping to go to napa in the AM and and try my luck.

Order a KantLeak brass valve. We use them on these filters all the time. They are excellent valves. We mount them right to the intake port on the fuel filter. McMaster Carr sells them as well as other places.

 

[roma3112]

shimon
thanks for the post! I finally have all the fittings and hose to install this thing. I have only one dilema. I have to take the machine for warranty service for a leaking hydrolic control block, that being said. I am a little paranoid about voiding my warranty as far as modifying the fuel system (even slightly), am I just crazy. Obivously the install will be neat clean and look factory. Should I go ahead and put it in or wait a few weeks for the repair to be done.

 

[Shimon]

I have to take the machine for warranty service for a leaking hydrolic control block, that being said. I am a little paranoid about voiding my warranty as far as modifying the fuel system (even slightly), am I just crazy. Obivously the install will be neat clean and look factory. Should I go ahead and put it in or wait a few weeks for the repair to be done.

It all depends on the dealer. Most won't care but there are always a couple of jerks out there. I wouldn't take a chance so I would wait. Just my opinion.

 

[sw03]

They dont worry about dirty fuel too much as they filter everything from what I have read and remember reading about diesel fuel dispensing in japan- all 2 micron from what I read I think anyway.

You would be amazed at all the crap and water you pull out of your fuel even at 5 micron and double that with a 2 micron unit.

Be sure to buy the Raycor 1100 unit with the thermostatically controlled fuel element which is located in the drain bowl and it will preheat the fuel before it enters the indirect injection pump which will also lengthen the life of your fuel pump.

you could conect the fuel heater to the hot side of the battery and use a 15 amp fuse to protect it.

You will be saving and lengthening the life of your engine and you will see a better running power unit.

Okay, but it pulls "crap" out of the fuel..And does this "crap" reduce engine wear? If, yes please show data.

I love synthetic oil and used for years; but, when people say an engine will last longer no one will prove that....

Same with fuel pump longevity...Just saying I have yet to see the data that supports anything...

Example, I spend $200 on elec to heat fuel to save a $200 fuel pump...

 

[leonz]

About the Racor filter system,

Over time the "crap" above 2 micron in size will cripple your fuel system and ruin your injection pump.

The same can be said for the engine oil system in your crank case.


The Racor pulls the water out and as it has a lower viscosity than the fuel it settles to the bottom while the fule is being centrifuged and then filtered.

The Kubota filter simply clogs and alllows a lttle fuel out and any water trapped in the filter.


The fuel is cleaner when it enters the lift pump, and has no water in it, and if you filter to 2 micron, your fuel pump and injection nozzles will last much much longer and it will not smoke as much, our diesels smoked a lot less with the Racor fuel filters.


Please go to the Racor filters site at Please wait while we redirect... and read the case studies for fuel filtration and oil filtration.

 

[Hvytrkmech]

Wow all kinds of conjecture in this thread.

In a fuel supply system it is ideal to have the filters/water separating devices on the push side of delivery, NOT the suction side. Once you break open a fuel system to service it you should plan on priming it, you do FAR more damage to the fuel system by air bounding the injection pump then you do with poor fuel or water in your fuel.

The 2 micron rating is all hear say, there are ABSOLUTELY NO sae testing and verification procedures in place to test below 4 microns, so if you are buying a filter rated at 2 microns It does not meet sae standards. Now this does not mean that the filter is not an 2 micron filter, what it means it that you are at the mercy of the manufacturers word that their filter does what it says. Try and contact the manufacturer and see if they provide you with any proprietary information on their 2 micron filters. What I believe you will get is a response stating that they have changed the methods they use to apply a rating to their products.

Furthermore, water emulsification/stripping, and 2 micron filtration is essential to HEUI and HPCR fuel systems. The mechanical direct injection system we have in our tractors would pass debris in the 15-25 micron range without ever even knowing it was there. The only benefit you will receive by adding these Racor systems is the water separating, and even that is superficial.

Save you money time and headaches, just buy your fuel from a reputable location and treat it your self at the time of delivery or pick up so it is well blended.

 

[leonz]

Wow all kinds of conjecture in this thread.

In a fuel supply system it is ideal to have the filters/water separating devices on the push side of delivery, NOT the suction side. Once you break open a fuel system to service it you should plan on priming it, you do FAR more damage to the fuel system by air bounding the injection pump then you do with poor fuel or water in your fuel.

The 2 micron rating is all hear say, there are ABSOLUTELY NO sae testing and verification procedures in place to test below 4 microns, so if you are buying a filter rated at 2 microns It does not meet sae standards. Now this does not mean that the filter is not an 2 micron filter, what it means it that you are at the mercy of the manufacturers word that their filter does what it says. Try and contact the manufacturer and see if they provide you with any proprietary information on their 2 micron filters. What I believe you will get is a response stating that they have changed the methods they use to apply a rating to their products.

Furthermore, water emulsification/stripping, and 2 micron filtration is essential to HEUI and HPCR fuel systems. The mechanical direct injection system we have in our tractors would pass debris in the 15-25 micron range without ever even knowing it was there. The only benefit you will receive by adding these Racor systems is the water separating, and even that is superficial.

Save you money time and headaches, just buy your fuel from a reputable location and treat it your self at the time of delivery or pick up so it is well blended.

Air in diesel engines fuel delivery system is nothing but a compressed gas that will be released when it enters the combustion system and used as fuel as well.

With indirect injection fuel systems it is not an issue as the indirect injection pumps are lubricated by both fuel in the upper half and splash fed from an oil reservior in the lower half of the injection pump.

Direct injection pumos are at the mercy of the fuell delivery system and if starved will sustain damage.


I have used the 2 micron filters in underground mining service and had roof bolters stop dead in diesel service with suction side filtration so thats a given in my case and why I am so fond of the model 500 filters with the turbines and settling bowls.


The fuel used in japan Is filtered to a much higher degree of filtration for particulates and water at the dispensing point and thats why they have stuck with the smaller filters.



Racor has always stated that their fuel filtering systems can tolerate 30 PSI maximum but the preferred method is on the suction side of the injection pump for diesel engines.

The water separation benefits of a turbine fuel filter are that it removes most if not all the residual water in the diesel fuel with the settling bowl and the cartridge filter.


They also have a number of studies to support thier line of fuel filtration systems for diesel fuel and gasoline.

I will add them here when I have a minute.

 

[Hvytrkmech]

Racor has always stated that their fuel filtering systems can tolerate 30 PSI maximum but the preferred method is on the suction side of the injection pump for diesel engines.

They also have a number of studies to support thier line of fuel filtration systems for diesel fuel and gasoline.

I will add them here when I have a minute.

Most of the Racor and other fuel treatment system I have, and currently deal with are not on the suction side. However, there are filtering/processing systems that are on the suction side of some fuel systems, so with that being said I agree with you. My statements are directed solely in regards to implementing these types of systems onto these home style tractors. But then and again I am not, nor will I ever be a Kubota technician.

As a side note,

What happens to a fuel delivery system that is set up on the suction side, then all of a sudden it has a small failure in lets say an o-ring?

No information in either of the attachments to verify either way.

 

[Shimon]

Most of the Racor and other fuel treatment system I have, and currently deal with are not on the suction side. However, there are filtering/processing systems that are on the suction side of some fuel systems, so with that being said I agree with you.

Wow all kinds of conjecture in this thread. In a fuel supply system it is ideal to have the filters/water separating devices on the push side of delivery, NOT the suction side.

Parker calls for this filter to be installed on the suction side. Here is the PDF instructions for this filter which states: 120A and 120B fuel filter/water separators are designed to be installed on the suction side of the fuel system with maximum flow capacities of 15 and 20 gallons per hour (GPH) respectively.

 

[Hvytrkmech]

Parker calls for this filter to be installed on the suction side. Here is the PDF instructions for this filter which states: 120A and 120B fuel filter/water separators are designed to be installed on the suction side of the fuel system with maximum flow capacities of 15 and 20 gallons per hour (GPH) respectively.

Funny it states that it can be used in either manner with the only exception being on the pressure side. Pumps emulsify water hindering filter performance.

Makes me wonder what type of media they use? Smoke in mirrors at this point. I do not deal with these types of low flow systems so have virtually no experience with them specifically.

Cool little filter assembly, looks perfect for what you guys want to use it for.

Bets of luck with them, and Thank You for the clarification.

 

[leonz]

The Racor "Proprietary" "Aquablock" filter repels water and forces it to colalesce and settle against the drain bowl.:thumbsup:

 

[roma3112]

Dropped the x-24 off at the Dr's today to get some leaks the hydro creep and a cracked hood fixed. The good thing is it is under warranty the ad thing is that it's a 100mi round trip for me I decided to wait before I install the 120as filter assy until after the trip to the dealer. It looks like if I relocate the stock plastic filter that is located just before the injector pump i can fit the racor unit in there under the hood. The only thing is that to get the suction end of the tank I have to run a big loop from the underside Pre-fuel pump to the racor under the hood and back o the fuel pump. I will look closer after i get her back but I think with some wire loom zip ties and a few fittings I can get a god factory looking install. (pics to come for sure) Thanks all for such imput I think this thread may benefit more than just me.


take care
john

 

[leonz]

Hello John,

No worries about the distance as long as you have good hose that is reinforced it will be fine. I would be worth it to buy some of the Racor hose if you can.

The Racor dealers will ship things like the filters and parts so hose should not be an issue if you want to buy the right hose.

 

[sw03]

Hello John,

No worries about the distance as long as you have good hose that is reinforced it will be fine. I would be worth it to buy some of the Racor hose if you can.

The Racor dealers will ship things like the filters and parts so hose should not be an issue if you want to buy the right hose.

Still wondering why you keep pimping this Racor and what data says it is needed.

 

[roma3112]

SW
I would think that "pimping" is a rather strong term. An opinion question was asked and numerous posts were given. I think it is a question of some people chose to be more cautious and maintain their equipment over and above sometimes what is needed. For me personally This machine was a HUGE purchase and I intend to keep it as long as I can keep it going, for the cost of a $50 filter unit and some goodyear hose and a few fittings I want that added protection. If members here have a strong opinion one way or another good for them for taking the time pro or con to voice that opinion But as far as "pimping" a product that is a little harsh.