Re-plumbed hydraulic's-Still have FEL problem

[Willl]

Something I don't understand Juice, if everything worked OK before the towing, why are you changing all the plumbing around ?

 

[J_J]

So with all valves in NEUTRAL, FEL and BH, the pressure should be down around 500 psi. Now it seems to me that it was at 1800 psi with no handles moved. If so then this would indicate some type of restriction or valve/spool not centering- correct. If there was a gauge on the return hose say at the filter, shouldnt it read the same as the gauge right off the pump, both at around 500 psi(if everything is at center) thanks for all the comments, it really gets me to thinkin'.

Is this correct: the relief, when PSI gets too high, diverts the fluid to the return line, thus lowering the pressure? I'm assuming the relief is under the acorn nut? there is a threaded bolt, then a spring, then a ball bearing.

juiceman39

Yes on the restriction. The relief only divert the fluid when the set relief pressure is there, and no more. The pressure should have been almost 0 psi.

Yes, that is probably the relief valve, some are fixed, and some can be adjusted.

 

[J_J]

Yee Haa, I have lift-off. what I did was remove the BH from the system completely, and the out of the FEL now goes to the tank. works at low RPM even. about 300 psi when FEL raising at low idle. Could it be the problem is in the BH valve not centering-not returning fluid?

Is there some kind of an inline PB or add on device. one in and two out type thing. So I could plumb both "outs" to the tank.

juiceman39

I would find out which valve on the BH is leaking or stuck. The out port from a valve should go to tank, even when using the PB sleeve/plug. Using a valve with a PB port, the out still goes to tank, because it is the used fluid from the cylinders, and the flow through fluid passes through the valve and out the PB post and to the next valve.

 

[juiceman39]

wILLL,
I re-routed plumbing because the FEL wouldn't work, plus the addition of psi gauge worked out better with the switch(I plumbed it back to the factory diagram). I have since found I should have just isolated the two implements. But that's how you learn I guess. Boy I learned alot from the guys on this forum. I have a problem of wanting to know how things work. Switching the plumbing just created more symptoms, but I learned something. How the system works, how to use the different fittings, NPTF, NPSM, JIC, and O-ring Boss(got rid of them) the bigger the hose the less it bends, and how to keep my face away from the vent tube. I've experienced a blown hose and got covered in oil(for the second time). You'd pay thousands of dollars for this kind of experience and training. Hopefully some day I can help someone as I've been helped. And yes I finally found the problem, a stuck spool on the BH. I humblely put my head between my legs for missing what was right in front of my face.

juiceman39

 

[J_J]

juiceman39,

Here is a joystick valve for a 10 GPM hyd flow. It has a PB port, but the PB sleeve is extra.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009081523485570&item=9-7401&catname=hydraulic

 

[juiceman39]

thanks, JJ, LeeJohn and sorry If I missed somebody, for all your great ideas. the joystick sure would be great to have, the price isnt that bad, plus ease of use.
sometime this winter I'm going to disassemble an old Victor single valve I have lying around and document everything about it with pics.

juiceman39