Re-torque Head bolts on 2210

[Smoody]

I would also rather have the thing leaking to the outside of my engine as opposed to the inside, in case it did work and merely shifted the problem to an invisible area.

good point

No harm in checking it. And they may not be tight. and if there not I'd tighten them up. May add about 5lbs just to make sure there tight. Work inside out for the seq. May have been do it for yrs. so no harm no fowl if it's running cool now. I'd like to see a pic. of it and exactly were it's leaking at.

I will snap a pic when I get home this evening, I may even shoot a video so you guys can see exactly what I'm referring.

 

[California]

Thanks, do you have torque for valve cover as well?

Careful on that valve cover. It is a cast aluminum shell. I don't think the nuts will bottom on anything, they just stress the shell. Since the valve cover gasket is rubber it should seal with moderate torque.

As I recall YM240 head torque is something like 129 ftlbs + or - 3.

I bought a HF deep impact socket set, 6-point in their own steel box, after seeing it recommended by someone in the HF forum here. I don't see that on HF now. (metric impact sockets). You need a deep socket for the left front head bolt where the radiator brace attaches.

I would try torquing it and see if the bubbling ceases.

Like 284 said, radiator sealer works for radiators (13psi) but I'm not convinced it will seal compression. (400+ psi and flaming hot). Plus it must clog the radiator somewhat.


One last point - if you suspect coolant is escaping I would *always* begin cranking with the compression released, in case water got into a cylinder.

 

[clemsonfor]

Man, I hate to pull the head for such a miniscule leak, its literally just a bubble every few minutes, I would have never knew it if I hadn't been starring at it after flushing the radiator, it does not get above 175 degrees now and i worked it hard.

I already know the answer but is there any sealant safe to run in it to maybe patch that one spot?

If your going to HF to get sockets i would get the black impact ones to use. I have busted a few cheap sockets, suprisingly no HF ones yet (maybe there Lifetime warrenty made them increse specs) but some cheap chrome ones from target.

Anyway id just keep an eye on it after you snug it up and just run it and do your foodplots and maybe keep on till you see more out of it. I bet it worsens in this summers heat, maybe not though?

What are you planting, remember i am just down the road from you, i never got anything planted this last summer but had it ready, just ran out of time when i was there. Im thinking i may plant milo or something? maybe just millet?

 

[Zork]

I think you should follow the torque sequence and recommended foot pounds. I bought a new 2004 and could not find any information about the head bolts in regards to them being stretch type (never retorque) or solid (retorque every XX hours). My outer head was seeping a tiny bit (as evidenced by dirt accumulation) and I found all the outer head bolts (all were solid) at half the recommended torque. I think many of the head gaskets are plain metal (someone here should know) and you may find your torque is nowhere close and correct the issue or if the head bolts are on the money you will need a new gasket. Ive opened engines up before where you could almost turn a few head bolts with your fingers because they were never retorqed. Good luck and keep us posted.X

 

[winston1]

If you decide to re torque I would do as you stated. Loosen first and then torque down. One at a time though.

Probabaly not to relevent, but I have used stop leak on a 454 gmc. It was leaking around the intake manifold. When I finally got rid of it the stop leak was still holding. It works on water leaks but not on high pressure. If the gasket is only leaking from the water port to the outside of the head it would stand a chance to stop it. I would try the re torque first. jmo.

 

[rmully]

With planting season here I would just tighten it up and keep an eye on it ..you may get lucky and that is all you have to do. My old Bronco had a similar leak and tightening worked ...I kept it another 5 years before trading it in.

 

[Smoody]

I am going to HF on lunch break to get the sockets, I snapped a few pictures of where it is bubbling, its below front injector on the front left corner.

 

[Smoody]

What are you planting, remember i am just down the road from you, i never got anything planted this last summer but had it ready, just ran out of time when i was there. Im thinking i may plant milo or something? maybe just millet?

Clemsonfor,

I have about 3 1 acre plots, right now I am plowing strips around them all and getting ready to pant switchgrass and sudan-sorghum for screening. Closer to May I will be planting eagle soybean, lab lab, chicory, and sunflower.

 

[Zork]

That # 2 photo appears to show what looks like spray copper-coat on the gasket. My engine required the removal of the rocker arm rails. Re-torque to a "specified amount" in a specified sequence; don't just tighten them down.

Edit: You might want to lube the threads on that injector and remove it to inspect for a deteriorated lower injector casing (not sure of the right term). You don't want that rusted lower to break off in the head.

 

[Smoody]

I will take a look at that injector, doesn't appear to me that rust is down inside the outer part of the injector, I see where it looks that way in the photo though.

As far as any sealant spray, nothing is flaking off anywhere that looks like any type of sealant, but I am not sure what your referring to. I believe that is just grease and dirt, I will take a warm rag this evening and see if that wipes off easy.

HF did not have a 22MM deep socket by itself and I have no need for the complete set at $37. I will stop by Lowes after work.