Rear Blade Adjustment Preferences

[LD1]

So how big is too big? My tractor is 3,000lb bare weight with a FEL and 30hp. I'd like a 7 footer to get outside my turf tires when angled, and again I'm not planning on heavy scraping. Is a 500lb 84" blade ok?

700-1000 lbs. Swap to cat 1 pins if you need to

 

[jyoutz]

So how big is too big? My tractor is 3,000lb bare weight with a FEL and 30hp. I'd like a 7 footer to get outside my turf tires when angled, and again I'm not planning on heavy scraping. Is a 500lb 84" blade ok?

Keep in mind that with an offset blade you can go with a shorter blade and still have the angled blade extend beyond your wheels on on side.

 

[LD1]

Yes, having all 3 (angle, tilt, offset) is handy. So would a hydraulic top link arm. But how would you rank them if you could only get one or two hydraulic controls?

I’m not sure I’d ever want end plates on blade when moving snow. I guess that’s because I’d never push the blade driving backwards.
Seems like if the blade ever caught something solid going backwards it would either stop you or break instead of jumping over it.

I'd give up tilt. Actually my blade has all 3. And I have 3 remotes. But one is for toplink. So I took the tilt cylinder off the blade and pinned it.

I never have found I need tilt with a straight blade. And I can achieve tilt by angling the blade than either extending or retracting the toplink

 

[Buppies]

3584 here great blade and it has two hydraulic cylinders

 

[AaronD81]

IMO, nothing under 700lbs. Do the lighter units work, sure or they would not be selling them for very long. But the heavier the better is basically the rule for anything that grades. As long as the tractor has the capabilities to raise the implement under a full load, you are good to go. People mention snow, is snow always light and fluffy, no. It gets hard and turns to ice. You need weight to break that up and move it.

The Land Pride RBT3584 is the perfect blade for your tractor IMO. I have recommended it for many of my customers with your size tractor, never had a complaint yet, other than why didn't I get this sooner?

Last suggestion, if you don't already have your tires loaded, get them loaded, all 4. I did that on my Mahindra 3215 HST, what a difference. Like a different-bigger tractor.

Thanks, appreciate the insight, I don’t want a blade that’s too small but I really don’t want one that’s too big. I just noticed that model and a little concerned about price but availability also seems to be an issue. Waiting for messicks to call me back with more info.

 

[marhar]

I'm considering a light/medium manually adjustable rear blade and I'd like input on offset adjustments. Land Pride and Woods have variations of slotted bolt adjustments on the moldboard for offset and tilt. I'm concerned about needing a wrench every time I want to make an adjustment and the possibility of the bolts sliding in the slots as I work, but the slots would allow infinite adjustability. Dirt Dog/Rhino has a pin on the 3 point hitch that allows the entire arm to swing. To me this seems preferable because the pin won't work loose like a bolt can. However, these brands are harder to find near me. Should I try to find one with a pin or is the Woods design fine if I don't want to change the offset frequently? I'd also like the option of skids and end plates so that's why I'm looking at certain brands.

View attachment 736403

https://woodsequipment.com/products/dirt-working/rear-blades/rbs72p/

View attachment 736404

https://www.dirtdogmfg.com/our-products/rear-blades-50-series/

Check out Everything attachments. I have their light duty 7' blade, one can use it as an offset and angle at the same time; works great for cleaning out a ditch on the farm.

6 Way Deluxe Scrape Blade for Compact Tractors

This scrape blade has the best value on the market, focusing on a strong blade that will last a lifetime, without adding unnecessary components.

www.everythingattachments.com

 

[LD1]

Thanks, appreciate the insight, I don’t want a blade that’s too small but I really don’t want one that’s too big. I just noticed that model and a little concerned about price but availability also seems to be an issue. Waiting for messicks to call me back with more info.

Keep your eyes on craigslist and FB marketplace

 

[Buggs67]

Thanks, appreciate the insight, I don’t want a blade that’s too small but I really don’t want one that’s too big. I just noticed that model and a little concerned about price but availability also seems to be an issue. Waiting for messicks to call me back with more info.

You should also go talk to Nolts. Should be right down the road from you.

Power Equipment for Sale | Nolt's Power Equipment & Perry Power Equipment LLC Nolt's Power Equipment

Nolt's has power equipment for sale in Shippensburg and Loysville, PA, including compact tractors, riding mowers, wheel loaders, articulating loaders, and attachments.

www.noltspower.com

 

[AaronD81]

Check out Everything attachments. I have their light duty 7' blade, one can use it as an offset and angle at the same time; works great for cleaning out a ditch on the farm.

6 Way Deluxe Scrape Blade for Compact Tractors

This scrape blade has the best value on the market, focusing on a strong blade that will last a lifetime, without adding unnecessary components.

www.everythingattachments.com

Unfortunately they have a 4 month wait for all blades.

 

[AaronD81]

You should also go talk to Nolts. Should be right down the road from you.

Power Equipment for Sale | Nolt's Power Equipment & Perry Power Equipment LLC Nolt's Power Equipment

Nolt's has power equipment for sale in Shippensburg and Loysville, PA, including compact tractors, riding mowers, wheel loaders, articulating loaders, and attachments.

www.noltspower.com

Thanks, there are actually 2 Kioti dealers closer to me and both have the 84" blade in the style of the Woods I posted in my first post, actually identical since Woods makes the Kioti blades, but they are only 300lbs and have a bolt adjustment for offset so I'm not sold on that yet.

 

[Valkyrie Rider]

I have a Woods HBL96-2. It has available skid shoes, end plates, gauge wheels etc. it’s also fully adjustable via pins. Weighs 600lbs and cuts really well due to weight. Bought it used a few years ago and have been very happy with it.

I agree with others that you’ll use features way more often if they are simple. Having to unbolt the blade to offset was something I’m not willing to do since I move the adjustments a lot depending on what I’m trying to accomplish on any given task.

 

[Gord Baker]

It is quite easy to install end caps. Get 1 made and drill holes so it can be mounted on either end.
Consider getting 1' extensions made to suit as well.
That old Ford blade is a prize. Longer that most which can eliminate having to shift it.

 

[AaronD81]

I have a Woods HBL96-2. It has available skid shoes, end plates, gauge wheels etc. it’s also fully adjustable via pins. Weighs 600lbs and cuts really well due to weight. Bought it used a few years ago and have been very happy with it.

I agree with others that you’ll use features way more often if they are simple. Having to unbolt the blade to offset was something I’m not willing to do since I move the adjustments a lot depending on what I’m trying to accomplish on any given task.

Do you use it with your CK, you don't find it too wide? I was leaning towards 84" since 72 seemed a little small.

 

[OhSarg]

Go with a box blade.

 

[bgr]

I'm considering a light/medium manually adjustable rear blade and I'd like input on offset adjustments. Land Pride and Woods have variations of slotted bolt adjustments on the moldboard for offset and tilt. I'm concerned about needing a wrench every time I want to make an adjustment and the possibility of the bolts sliding in the slots as I work, but the slots would allow infinite adjustability. Dirt Dog/Rhino has a pin on the 3 point hitch that allows the entire arm to swing. To me this seems preferable because the pin won't work loose like a bolt can. However, these brands are harder to find near me. Should I try to find one with a pin or is the Woods design fine if I don't want to change the offset frequently? I'd also like the option of skids and end plates so that's why I'm looking at certain brands.

View attachment 736403

https://woodsequipment.com/products/dirt-working/rear-blades/rbs72p/

View attachment 736404

https://www.dirtdogmfg.com/our-products/rear-blades-50-series/

Aaron,

You have gotten some excellent replies and suggestions. I have made a business of repairing and maintaining gravel roads for 20+ years. A few thoughts:

What you get depends on how much road you are maintaining, how much it softens in the spring, how steep it is, how much rain you get every year, and the size of your tractor. A one lane road which is fairly flat, does not freeze in the winter, and does not get much rain can be kept with a fairly simple blade like the ones you show. A road which has a thaw cycle in the spring and gets rain during the year will require redoing the crown and ditches every spring and touch ups every month or so to get out potholes, maintain the crown, and clean material out of the ditches back into the road. Snow plowing has been well covered by others' comments.

If you have more than a simple road, you will need to change adjustments often as you do the road. You will need the pin controlled offset function, pin swivel for the blade, and a pin controlled tilt function. They should be robust. The used Ford blade recommended in another comment is a good choice. A good used piece of equipment may be a very good choice, but try it to see how much play has been worn into the adjustments, before you buy. A set of gauge wheels(or a gauge wheel in the center for a small blade) are a very effective help in avoiding ridges caused as your tractor nods over bumps, avoiding plowing road surface material off in winter, and smoothly spreading material you have pulled back out of ditches. If you find that you would like end caps, you can make them yourself or have someone weld them up for you if the blade you like does not come with them. They should be removable.

If you have a road which is more than a simple dry short one, you will have to restore the crown and clean the ditches in the spring and spread the material you get back out of the ditches onto the road surface. You will have to touch the surface up to keep the crown and clean ditches several times a year and after big rain storms. The touch ups wont take too long, but you will need to change angle and side offset often as you work. Bolt type adjustments will really slow you down and prevent you from doing a good job. If you have any rear hydraulic outlets, getting a cylinder for blade swivel and side extension will save you time and you will be much more likely to make the adjustments and do a good job. Hydraulic cylinders and hoses are not expensive Keeping the crown and getting out potholes is important. If water stays on the road surface anywhere, the material under the puddle will be soft, and when a car tire goes though the puddle, the soft material will splash out to the side and the pothole will deepen with every splash. To fix a pothole you have to break up the hardened road surface it is in and re-smooth the area, just throwing in loose material will not last long.

Leaves in the ditches are another concern. You don't want to leave them in the ditch where they will hold water and make the surface soft, or pull them back out onto the road surface when you clean ditches. Organic matter in the material spread on the road will hold water and make the surface soft. If leaves bunch up and dam a ditch in a rainstorm, the water will be forced back into the road and will erode the surface badly. If a branch is lying in a ditch, it will make a leaf dam and push lots of water onto the road. You should clean ditches in the fall after most are down, and before you work on the road. Pick out branches as you see them during the year. One of the best ways to get leaves out of the ditch is with a heavy push blower like a 12 HP Billygoat which has a nozzle which can swivel up and down by a lever on the handle. The strong blower and swiveling nozzle work fast. I can clean both sides of a half mile road in about a hour in dry conditions, and it does a lot to keep the road in good condition. You can use a blade to bunch up leaves in the ditches, but they will be heavy and will need to be moved with your bucket. You will lose some material that way. You want to clean leaves out before you pull material back out of ditches.

If you have a small machine, probably under 3000 pounds, the offset function for the blade will make the tractor bounce around a lot and may not work well for you, and generally the heavier the rear blade, the better it will work. Always easier to redo the surface on a damp day, or the day after a rainstorm. That will let the blade cut in and prevent bounce. Don't work on it if it is too soft.

If you have gauge wheels, you can do a lot of smoothing by setting the gauge wheels for about a inch cut into the surface, put on blade end caps if you have them, and disconnect your top link. Use the lift lever for the 3PH arms to move the blade up and down and let the blade ride on the gauge wheels and pivot vertically on the link ends in the end of the 3PH arms. As you raise or lower the 3PH arms, the blade angle changes and the amount of cut increases or decreases. This is a good way to distribute loose material and fill potholes. For a final cut, set the gauge wheels for 1/2 inch cut.

You can use a york rake with drop down scraper blade and end caps for this work, too. The scraper will do your blade work, and the york rake will spread material evenly and fill potholes. The scraper blade and end caps add weight to make the rake cut in. It is a lot easier to make a final smooth surface. I use this on a 3500 pound machine with a triple hydraulic valve for swivel, tilt, and top link. It is not as touchy as a blade to get the final smooth surface, and it will pull grass and trash out of the road surface material if you work when it is not wet and stop to pitchfork out the junk before it makes too big a ball. It won't work on a very wet day. This won't plow snow or swivel out to the side the way a good blade can. You will have to get a rake about a foot or two wider than the tractor if it can handle the weight.

Hope this is a help and I am sure readers can improve and refine this.

 

[somanytractors]

Thanks, that's the kind of insight I'm looking for. After a little more research, it looks like the Dirt Dog/Rhino doesn't have end plates or skid shoes as options on the 50 series, does anyone know of a brand where I can get pin adjustments for everything and at least end plates? I guess I could modify end plates but would prefer not to if I'm buying new anyway.

I'm not familiar with end plates for a scraper blade but I would guess the edge is probably hardened steel. If that's the case it would be hard to make them. If you want the ability to put end plates on it it's probably best to buy a blade that you can get end plates for.
Personally, I've never used a scraper with end plates. I don't know how useful they would be.
A scraper is great for breaking stuff loose and for scraping but for leveling and moving materials around a box blade is the way to go. While the scraper with end plates looks similar I would question how well it works, as the scraper has a thin sharp blade good for digging while the box blade has a blade thats a few inches wide so it doesn't really dig in. I don't think I could get by without a scraper and box blade, although I don't know what you're trying to do with the scraper.

 

[mkendrix]

I started 20 years ago with 16 acres of corn field and swamp. Then I added a 1/2 mile gravel driveway and built a house. After about 5 years, I gave up using my snow plow truck to work the driveway and bought a 8N. Soon followed a 7’ slider blade with bolt adjustment. Had to use 2 wrenches and would never stay tight. I ended up welding it in offset that I could straddle a windrow of snow or gravel and roll it outside tire path. Young and learning the hard way. Stay away from bolt adjustments!! As for weight, I chained 2 cat litter buckets on the blade, then fill them with the HD tire chains to add another 300 pounds to the blade(and I don’t have to look for them next winter).

 

[CADplans]

I have the JD 4105, which is 10 HP (both engine, and pto) larger than the OP's
I have two 1,000 pound attachments, and have connected both to my JD,,

In each case, the attachment results in "the tail wagging the DOG!"

I can not believe a 1,000 pound attachment would have any function at all on a 25% less HP tractor than mine.

Heck, I even need front end weights with rear finish mower,,

With lighter attachments, you get to compensate for weight by using more speed.
This 7 foot landscape rake does amazing things,, and weighs "almost nothing" compared to a 1000 pound blade.

 

[LD1]

I have the JD 4105, which is 10 HP (both engine, and pto) larger than the OP's
I have two 1,000 pound attachments, and have connected both to my JD,,

In each case, the attachment results in "the tail wagging the DOG!"

I can not believe a 1,000 pound attachment would have any function at all on a 25% less HP tractor than mine.

Heck, I even need front end weights with rear finish mower,,

With lighter attachments, you get to compensate for weight by using more speed.
This 7 foot landscape rake does amazing things,, and weighs "almost nothing" compared to a 1000 pound blade.

For pulling the blade, HP is of little concern.

In a physical sense.....your 4105 and the OP's ck30 are nearly identical.

With a loader on...which most people do when blading....it won't be a tail wagging the dog scenarios or needing front weights.

 

[jyoutz]

I'm not familiar with end plates for a scraper blade but I would guess the edge is probably hardened steel. If that's the case it would be hard to make them. If you want the ability to put end plates on it it's probably best to buy a blade that you can get end plates for.
Personally, I've never used a scraper with end plates. I don't know how useful they would be.
A scraper is great for breaking stuff loose and for scraping but for leveling and moving materials around a box blade is the way to go. While the scraper with end plates looks similar I would question how well it works, as the scraper has a thin sharp blade good for digging while the box blade has a blade thats a few inches wide so it doesn't really dig in. I don't think I could get by without a scraper and box blade, although I don't know what you're trying to do with the scraper.

A good heavy rear scraper blade is a far more versatile blade for road maintenance than a box blade.