Rear blade advice

[MXD]

My 1723 is getting delivered this week so I went to do a walkthrough yesterday. One of the things I wanted was a rear blade with an offset feature. My dealer told me that the only one he could find was a Tufline GB1. Itç—´ 385 pounds and the tractor seems to have no issue lifting it but it only gets it maybe 5 inches off the ground with the top link adjust to be level. If he shortens the top link all the way it will lift it to about 7.5 inches but then it rotates off axis.

My question is, is this blade just too tall for the 1723? Is there any way to adjust this?

 

[MXD]

One other question I have, if you open up the image of the entire tractor and zoom in on the back, you can see the top link at a much steeper angle than the lower links. Could this be limiting its travel? If I modded the top link attachment point to be lower, would that help?

Sorry if these are dumb questions, I’m brand new at this. I have a mechanical mind so I’ll get there but I’m starting from nothing.

 

[CobyRupert]

Your blade has another top link connection hole higher up. Wouldn’t your blade raise higher if you used this hole? Not sure how it would effect level-ness when lowered.

 

[Deere Dude]

I think you are stuck with a too tall blade. I have the same problem with a 6' blade on a heavy garden tractor with cat 1 hitch. The whole lifting arms are to low to the ground just because of being a small tractor.

It will still function okay but the full range of use will be limited. I have a dirt scoop with the same problem. A OK with a bigger tractor but not on a low to the ground tractor, but still sort of works on limited jobs.

 

[ray66v]

Subcompact tractors have what is known as a "limited" category 1 hitch.

Lifting height is one of the limitations.

Some equipment can be modified to work better. But, unless it it specifically made for a subcompact, like the BX series implements, you may have to live with some limitations.

 

[oosik]

I was wondering. Do the lower arm lifting rods have a hole higher up on the "fork". Do the lower arms have an alternate hole to connect the lifting rods.

 

[LD48750]

The blade isn't too tall, the tractor is too small.

You want to use full sized attachments, get a full sized tractor.

 

[MXD]

The blade isn't too tall, the tractor is too small.

You want to use full sized attachments, get a full sized tractor.

That’s why I’m asking for advice. I didn’t pick this blade, my dealer did. I’m trying to figure out if it’s ok or if I should overrule him and pull the blade out of the deal.

 

[MF RED in MT]

That’s why I’m asking for advice. I didn’t pick this blade, my dealer did. I’m trying to figure out if it’s ok or if I should overrule him and pull the blade out of the deal.

If you end up keeping that blade, it looks like a real P.I.A. to angle the blade with that ratchet arm rather than to just pull a pin and rotate the blade as many others have for adjustment.

KC

 

[MXD]

If you end up keeping that blade, it looks like a real P.I.A. to angle the blade with that ratchet arm rather than to just pull a pin and rotate the blade as many others have for adjustment.

KC

The angle is a pin in the back. That turnbuckle is for the offset which is definitely not the quickest adjustment. But I already located one of those adjustable links with the pin and multiple holes to swap it out for. May be a moot point though because at this point I’m leaning towards turning it down and just buying a cheap light duty blade. All I really need it for is light snow on a paved driveway (when it’s not deep enough for the blower) and some light grading in the yard.

 

[LD48750]

The angle is a pin in the back. That turnbuckle is for the offset which is definitely not the quickest adjustment. But I already located one of those adjustable links with the pin and multiple holes to swap it out for. May be a moot point though because at this point I’m leaning towards turning it down and just buying a cheap light duty blade. All I really need it for is light snow on a paved driveway (when it’s not deep enough for the blower) and some light grading in the yard.

For that use, I would definitely get a smaller blade.

 

[MF RED in MT]

The angle is a pin in the back. That turnbuckle is for the offset which is definitely not the quickest adjustment. But I already located one of those adjustable links with the pin and multiple holes to swap it out for. May be a moot point though because at this point I知 leaning towards turning it down and just buying a cheap light duty blade. All I really need it for is light snow on a paved driveway (when it痴 not deep enough for the blower) and some light grading in the yard.

Sorry, I see now that you explained it.

Good luck on your new choice for a rear blade.

KC

 

[MXD]

OK, we pulled the blade out of the deal. Now I'm on the hunt for decent rear blade mostly for snow. I'd love to find one with an offset feature. Any recommendations?

 

[LD48750]

OK, we pulled the blade out of the deal. Now I'm on the hunt for decent rear blade mostly for snow. I'd love to find one with an offset feature. Any recommendations?

Why do you think you want an offset?

 

[MXD]

Why do you think you want an offset?

Even though my driveway is paved, it's lined with golf ball size landscape rocks on all sides. Inevitably, they end up getting sucked into the blower when I get too close. My driveway is narrow enough so I can't just stay 6-12 inches clear of the edge. The offset will allow me to run the blower that 6-12 inches away while pushing the remaining 6-12 inches off into the rocks. So I suppose I don't NEED it as I could just drive off the driveway by a foot or two with the blower up and blade down but it would make it much easier and make less of a mess.

 

[LD48750]

Even though my driveway is paved, it's lined with golf ball size landscape rocks on all sides. Inevitably, they end up getting sucked into the blower when I get too close. My driveway is narrow enough so I can't just stay 6-12 inches clear of the edge. The offset will allow me to run the blower that 6-12 inches away while pushing the remaining 6-12 inches off into the rocks. So I suppose I don't NEED it as I could just drive off the driveway by a foot or two with the blower up and blade down but it would make it much easier and make less of a mess.

I think you will find that a 5 or 6 foot blade will be enough wider then tour tractor that it will do what you want it to without an offset.
And MUCH cheaper.

 

[fried1765]

The angle is a pin in the back. That turnbuckle is for the offset which is definitely not the quickest adjustment. But I already located one of those adjustable links with the pin and multiple holes to swap it out for. May be a moot point though because at this point I知 leaning towards turning it down and just buying a cheap light duty blade. All I really need it for is light snow on a paved driveway (when it痴 not deep enough for the blower) and some light grading in the yard.

I would absolutely recommend turning that particular blade idea down!
I would also suggest not buying just any old cheap blade.

You should call Everything Attachments for blade advice.
They make a blade that is far superior, and MUCH simpler to adjust, than that Tuffline blade in your picture.
They charge $913 for their 5 foot 6 way deluxe blade, with "free shipping".
It is worth every penny!

 

[airbiscuit]

Look how easy it is to offset this rear blade (at 4:27)

 

[fried1765]

Look how easy it is to offset this rear blade (at 4:27)

This blade is similar to the EA 6 Way Deluxe Scrape Blade,.... but NOT AS NICE as the EA blade!