Rear Blade Rear Blade for JD 5303

[MtnViewRanch]

Love to have a 3584 but I don't need it as bad as I need some other things such as a good core aerator, Harley rake, and a new 2720. You can tell by my pictures that the 1998 rear blade hasn't seen much use. Now if the economy improves then I might get one sooner than later.

This is true, so probably no need to spend money where it just isn't needed.

I understand that all to well.

 

[LD1]

Don't see the need for the large gusset plates since the top link is free to move from side to side, am I missing your intent?

The intent was to prevent it from bending like it has obviously done before. I too have been trying to figure that one out:confused2:

While the gussets may not be necessary, they are easy and cheap to add, and you see all of the big blades have some sort or triangulation there. And I too have been known to use the blade with a pull and lift method to rip out some smaller stumps. Allthough I would think it would bend up instead of down, either way, gussets will help with that.

 

[jenkinsph]

Having a blade like this I think the added steel on the bottom to box it in is more than adequate and think that suggestion was well founded. If you are trying to lift and pull a stump out with this blade I would use the center of the blade. Just as using a fel to lift a load from one edge can tweak the loader I think this was the result of abuse. Better to bend these front cross pieces than twist the main beam because they are easier to fix.

Using the blade as it is intended I doubt the OP will have a problem with it. I would recommend he straighten them and box in the bottom as you recommended.

 

[deere5105]

You guys definitely have an eye for catching things out of place and the knowledge on how to correct and improve it. If I can make time today, I plan to put together an all inclusive list of things that need correcting and post it. So far I agree with the vertical and horizontal bracing of the mold board and straightening the 3pt hitch and boxing it in for added strength. I also would like to see what the repair work around the hitch was for and if it can be improved on, primarily for cosmetics. I do not intend to ever try to pull anything up with this tool. If there ever was contact with a stump or root, it would be accidental. I have seen the results of using tools outside of their intent. Doesn't take long to ruin things.

 

[LD1]

improved on, primarily for cosmetics.

Can of JD green paint:thumbsup:

If there ever was contact with a stump or root, it would be accidental. I have seen the results of using tools outside of their intent. Doesn't take long to ruin things.

No harm in popping out stumps, as long as you have a blade strong enough for the tractor, and you do it right in the middle and not out at one end.

 

[jenkinsph]

Here's what I came up with so far, split a piece of 4x6 x 1/4" rectangular tubing and fitted to the blade. Tell me what you think before I clean them up and weld in place.

Guy's the more I look at this the more I think the back braces need to be more substancial, deeper and taller. Steel for this is pretty cheap, a 6x8 or 8x8 drop of tubing about 4' long is enough to make this repair. I am thinking I will wait until I go by the steel yard and see if I can find a more appropriate piece of steel to use for this. I would make it the same way but bigger, deeper, and better.

 

[LD1]

Guy's the more I look at this the more I think the back braces need to be more substancial, deeper and taller. Steel for this is pretty cheap, a 6x8 or 8x8 drop of tubing about 4' long is enough to make this repair. I am thinking I will wait until I go by the steel yard and see if I can find a more appropriate piece of steel to use for this. I would make it the same way but bigger, deeper, and better.

I dont really think it is necessary for your tractor or even the op's, but there is no harm in going bigger just to be sure. Keep in mind that the curvature of the blade, and the lip at the top and lip at the bottom also offer significant strength vs just a straight piece for a moldboard. Also, adding a piece vertically out at the edge like you see on some blades (like the new EA blade) also offers strength by forcing the moldboard to remain curved.

 

[94BULLITT]

Guy's the more I look at this the more I think the back braces need to be more substancial, deeper and taller. Steel for this is pretty cheap, a 6x8 or 8x8 drop of tubing about 4' long is enough to make this repair. I am thinking I will wait until I go by the steel yard and see if I can find a more appropriate piece of steel to use for this. I would make it the same way but bigger, deeper, and better.

Why not a piece of 6" or 8" channel?

 

[deere5105]

With all of the suggestions and input, I think I have a plan:
1) straighten 3PT hitch, replace pins and close in bottom and front, but leaving room to access nut on pin
2) add vertical bracing on each end of moldboard
3) add 6" or 8" channel across back of moldboard
4) replace cutting edge with bolt on type

This seems to be similar to what is on the Frontier RB2184 which is rated for 60 HP 4WD unit. I think I would be ok since the JD 5303 is rated at 64 HP at engine.

May try to get by to see the welder this evening.

Anyone see any other needs I am missing?

 

[94BULLITT]

There would be nothing wrong with welding the new cutting edge on. I doubt you would ever wear one out. You would probably have to go back to deere to find one that will bolt on.

 

[jenkinsph]

LD1
I agree about the vertical stiffener was planning on that and a mounting for skid shoes each end.

My steel supplier has a drop pile and usually sells something like I want for around $20 bill. I buy most of my box tubing from him by the bundle so the scrap pile is a bargain pile.

94Bullit, Channel would work but I don't think it would be as good as using something deeper which would tie into the moldboard. I suspect getting more of the vee angle in the bracing will be alot stronger putting the reinforcement in compression.

deere5105, If you are concerned about flattening out the moldboard by driving over it you can always use a piece of wood to shim it to the correct height between the floor and the center of the curve.

 

[deere5105]

LD1
I agree about the vertical stiffener was planning on that and a mounting for skid shoes each end.

My steel supplier has a drop pile and usually sells something like I want for around $20 bill. I buy most of my box tubing from him by the bundle so the scrap pile is a bargain pile.

94Bullit, Channel would work but I don't think it would be as good as using something deeper which would tie into the moldboard. I suspect getting more of the vee angle in the bracing will be alot stronger putting the reinforcement in compression.

deere5105, If you are concerned about flattening out the moldboard by driving over it you can always use a piece of wood to shim it to the correct height between the floor and the center of the curve.

Made it by the welder this evening with instructions and pictures. He had some grader blades already drilled and 7' long. Indicated he was just about finished with a new metal break and thought would not have an issue straightening the moldboard. Going to try the channel across the back and gussets on each end. Thinking of going with 8" channel. Going to remove the repair work to see what is under it to determine if the best repair option was used.

Still got time to make change in the morning if any better suggestions.

 

[jenkinsph]

deere5105,
Good luck with it and make sure you take some pictures for us.

FWIW, the braces need to be about 32 to 34" long so a piece of large box tubing 3' long is enough for both pieces. Lots of this stuff is used for large sign posts by the way.

 

[deere5105]

deere5105,
Good luck with it and make sure you take some pictures for us.

FWIW, the braces need to be about 32 to 34" long so a piece of large box tubing 3' long is enough for both pieces. Lots of this stuff is used for large sign posts by the way.

May call welder tomorrow and suggest he look before purchasing new channel. May be that the location he buys from has a "scrap" pile that could be picked from for a lesser price. I would like to pick up welding and fabricating as a hobby, but this guy works for $15/hr plus materials. For the amount of work I need done, I would never come out.

 

[jenkinsph]

Make sure you buy him some type of nice Christmas present for him and his family.


When I lived in Summit I learned alot about welding from Danny Ray McGaugh sure would like to know what he has forgotten about welding. I should give him a call.

 

[jenkinsph]

deere5105,
Did ya fix it?

 

[deere5105]

deere5105,
Did ya fix it?

Spoke with welder this morning. Carried a neighbors 3pt spreader to him too. Bottom of nice Land Pride spreader rusted out. Said was beyond repair. Mentioned looking for box tubing versus channel to keep cost down, but gave him room to do whatever he needed to do. Figure will be couple days. Little anxious to see how it turns out.

 

[BIG DOOLEY]

I bought a small 5 foot blade for my 2320.
some were bent at the store. i modified mine when i got home to strengthen it.
cost was right with a cheaper model but if you can weld you it is not ard to beef one up for a low cost and some time.
i am working on a few types of skid shoes now
Tom

 

[jenkinsph]

BIG DOOLEY,
I would say you just about started from scratch. I have a TSC 5' blade for my mower and picked it because it was light enough not to damage the asphalt when clearing snow. Sure isn't much curve in your moldboard is there. Interested in how you finish the skid shoes.

 

[BIG DOOLEY]

I will post some picks when i get it done.
have the parts/pieces and need to do some welding
i am also looking for parts to add a rear scv outlet and will probably add a double acting cylinder to power angle the blade also in the future as money permits.
i need to go thru some old equipment at my inlaws farm and see what parts they have lying around.
Tom