Rear flat

[skipmarcy]

That's a good price anywhere in the country. If it is just a tube broken, he can do it with the wheel on the tractor - the Co-op I used to work for did them all the time that way if they could, will save alot of time and grunt work.

 

[Soundguy]

Bob.. I've got a sugestion for you. Have a roll of duct tape on hand when the guy gets there. If the inside of the rim is rusty and has pierced the tube.. new tube or patch will do the same inshort order.

Real fix is to break down the rim.. and sandblast or wire wheel till smooth, then paint with a rusty metal primer/sealing paint.. "quick old iron' way to fix it is to roll a few layers of duct tape in the rim... Don't laugh.. lots of old tractors rolling around like this.. or with the old tube cut up and used as a boot against the rusty rim.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[BobReeves]

Great tip on the duct tape, thanks.

Danny showed up yesterday and we discovered the previous owner had put on a new tire without replacing the tube or cleaning up the rim. The tube not only had several patches it was wasted from rust scale on the rim. At my request Danny pulled the tire completely off the rim and left me with it. This gave me time to clean it up and go get a new tube.

Spent about an hour with my angle grinder/wire brush cleaning up the inside of the rim, sprayed it with Extend, (some rust converter I had laying around). After the Extend was dry I painted the inside of the rim with Rustolieum(sp) and must say except for the many rust pits it doesn't look or feel too bad. There are a couple of places pitted pretty bad and think I will use the duct tape trick just to be sure I don't have another problem down the road.

He is coming back today to put it back together, going to end up costing me $90.00 for the two trips plus the new tube but this time it is as right as I can make it. I'll never understand why some people will spend the money for a new tire and not replace a $30.00 tube.

 

[Soundguy]

I've pulled fronts of fmy N tractors that use 4$ tubes.. and found patches /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

I did as you did.. wire wheeled the rim.. hit it with a rust stopper primer, then painted it liberally ( many coats ) with an appliance epoxy enamil i had laying around. Like yours.. came out smooth, with some evident pitting.

I put the tube and tire on and it has been that way for 2ys now. If the pitting bothers you, you can use just about any type of sndible filler then repaint for a smooth finish.. however.. once you get the prickly stuff out.. the tube is much happier, even if a few pits remain. On my worst rim, also a front.. there was alot of welding and brazing .. whole lotta pitting.. I use the old tube as a boot.. just cut the sides and middle out... that's holding air now as well..

Sounds like yours will be fine. ( Learned the duct tape trick from a tire guy (among others ) that services alot of farms... he took a roll out on farm calls.. said sometimes the farmer didn't have time to 'fix' the rim.. so they did the duct tape thingy as a stopgap measure.. )

Soundguy

 

[jgh]

20051014

Some of you guys are lucky, or perhaps closer to the dealer than I. My best quote for simple work at my location was $160+ for just coming out and swapping tires from one side to the other (to gain width), most of which was travel, etc.

Noted that Charlois, who is also from Va, quoted some higher prices.

The tires on my NH are indeed heavy even with no fluid--about 200-250# each /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

J