rear remote kit

[tvman]

Hey JRobyn, glad I came across this post. I also have an L4330 HST. and it already has two rear remotes. My question is, did you install your valves yet? If so ,did you have to remove the fender and tire to get some working space?.I will probably have more questions later. Thanks

I agree with Powerscol. My Kubota has slots in the sheetmetal for 3 rear remotes. I really only NEED 2 - one each for top and tilt, but hey, while I'm doing it, an additional stacking valve is only about $250. Specifically, for mine, the Kubota OEM price for a single non-float/detent valve is $233. The same valve with float/detent is $293.

Which brings us to another question you need to decide - do you want to have float/detent or not? Float/detent just means that the hydraulic cylinder attached to that particular valve doesn't get hydraulic pressure either way (extend or retract). So it is free to extend or retract based on whatever forces are applied. I figure that this will be particularly useful for the "top" cylinder for a bushhog to allow it to follow ground contours as needed. For the other 2, I wasn't sure, but for just $60 additional, I got all three with detent.

 

[JRobyn]

I have not yet installed, but everything I have read recommends removing at least the RR tire for working space. So I plan to do that. Hopefully the sheetmetal can stay as-is.

 

[tvman]

Here's what I have found so far. I should explain first that I have a Curtis cab on mine so that sort of complicates things. Removing the tires doesn't help much unless you are going to remove the fenders.

So far,I have removed the seat,the seat mounting platform,the two panels that cover the left and right side control handles,by the way, the PTO cable needs to be disconnected at the bottom of the tractor. Remove the cotter, washer and loosen one of the nuts holding the cable in place. After that you can remove the right side cover.

After the side panels are off you can remove the pan which the seat was bolted to. I keep calling them panels but it's those two covers on both sides of the seat where the control levers go through.

Not trying to overload you with too much info but since my tractor already has two rear remotes, I am trying to add the third without removing the originals.

Hope this all makes sense,cant wait til the stuff shows up.

I have not yet installed, but everything I have read recommends removing at least the RR tire for working space. So I plan to do that. Hopefully the sheetmetal can stay as-is.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Hey JRobyn, glad I came across this post. I also have an L4330 HST. and it already has two rear remotes. My question is, did you install your valves yet? If so ,did you have to remove the fender and tire to get some working space?.I will probably have more questions later. Thanks

I installed rear remotes on L5030 without removing tire, but no cab. Removed seat, all else was pretty easy.

 

[tvman]

Thanks for chiming in buckeye, I wish someone would post a video of their install.

I installed rear remotes on L5030 without removing tire, but no cab. Removed seat, all else was pretty easy.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I have posted pics in the past, when I did it. Maybe can search for them.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...draulics-2.html?highlight=rear+remote+install

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I think you will need to remove the two to add the third. They stack together, and orings to install between them.

 

[JRobyn]

If anyone is still following this old thread, I finally had a bit of energy this afternoon (and a very helpful wife), to try to work the valves (3) up in under the fender. By snaking the tubing UP from underneath, behind the 3pt lever, They went right in, no problem. No 3pt lever disturbance at all. Well, except for the shoulder strain from her holding that VERY heavy assembly up in rough position. I had to wiggle the "drain" or return tube around a bit to get it to line up, and we found that the retaining bolt hole for that was totally crammed with dirt-dauber residue. Had to chase the threads with a tap. But basically all went in extremely easily.

Now, I suppose I will spend the next 3 months barking knuckles attempting to put the valve levers back on, with all their tiny washers and cotter pins. And I haven't even looked at how to get holes drilled in the fender for the big outboard valve support bracket. Back tire may still have to come off.

 

[dantran1010]

Hey Buckeye, I have a l5030 and looking for rear remotes. What did you end up buying?