rear remotes for 3038e

[johndeerezach]

is it worth the money to install the rear remotes on the back of the tractor? and how much would they cost anybody?

 

[Lt220]

It all depends on if you want to control an implement with a hydraulic cylinder or if you want to capability of adding top and tilt to the tractor. Some even use the rear SCV to control a grapple attachment for the loader. I installed a two spool SCV on my JD 2320 and LOVE IT! Don't know allot about the 3038E tractor but it will probably require the power beyond kit to control the rear SCVs. I believe the SCV kit for the tractor is around $800.00....and just like the rear SCV kits for other tractors from JD, I'm sure that dosen't come with the power beyond kit that is probably required.

 

[johndeerezach]

yes i would like to use it to possibly control grapple and the hydraulic implments: log splitter and many other things if needed

 

[johndeerezach]

but are those live remotes or is there a lever on them like the loader to open then close when you take your hand off the lever? or are they live from the hydraulics

 

[Lt220]

These SCVs from JD are spring to center lever valves. They work the same as the loader joystick. The only difference is the single joy stick lever controls both spools. The rear SCV kit for the 3038E is 2 seperate levers. One lever controls one spool and the other controls the other spool. They are not intended to be used to control anything that needs constant hydraulic flow. They are only intended to be used for monitary movement such as controling a cylinder. You can find out more information on this rear SCV kit for the 3038E on John Deere's web site. Just pull up the 3038E and click on the options. It goes into detail about the rear SCVs.

 

[picker77]

Recently had JD's dual rear remote kit installed on my 3032E (same tractor, same kit). Here's what they look like. Both two-way levers are spring-to-center, left one has float, right one does not. The kit consisted of a lot of parts, as shown in the kit diagram. $720 for the kit (shipped very quickly by JD factory, dealer had it in three days), about $150 or so for the 2-3 hour dealer install.

Dual SCV's are the most valuable option available IMHO. Mine are currently being used for top and tilt, but I'm adding a grapple thumb to the bucket so one of them will also occasionally be used for that. Dual SCV's are worth every penny.

 

[johndeerezach]

thank you that is pretty pricey for that but i bet it is well worth it for the use of the hydraulics.

 

[picker77]

They are not intended to be used to control anything that needs constant hydraulic flow. They are only intended to be used for monitary movement such as controling a cylinder.

True, that's JD's official position. However, when I picked up my tractor after the install, the installing mechanic told me if I wanted to run a log splitter or something similar with its own valve downstream, just tie down the lever, he said it won't hurt anything as long as there is a continuous return flow path for the fluid. I have NOT tried this myself, but have heard others say the same thing. It did make sense to me, though. One of the TBN hydraulics wizards could give the OP a more definitive answer.

 

[picker77]

thank you that is pretty pricey for that but i bet it is well worth it for the use of the hydraulics.

I just divided the cost by the number of times I had to climb off the tractor every year and adjust that $#!@%& top link while box blading, and divided that answer by the number of years I expected to own this tractor. The resulting cost per climb-off and back on made it a no-brainer. :laughing:

 

[kennyd]

True, that's JD's official position. However, when I picked up my tractor after the install, the installing mechanic told me if I wanted to run a log splitter or something similar with its own valve downstream, just tie down the lever, he said it won't hurt anything as long as there is a continuous return flow path for the fluid. I have NOT tried this myself, but have heard others say the same thing. It did make sense to me, though. One of the TBN hydraulics wizards could give the OP a more definitive answer.

You are 100% correct. You can just plug in a logsplitter and then tie down the handle with a bungie cord. It's done all the time...

 

[nikdfish]

Should the potential for heat buildup be a consideration when using outboard hydraulic equipment? The 3038E only has 5 gallons or so in the tranny/hydraulic system & even small log splitters have 8+ gal resevoirs, 25+ gal on the larger ones ...


Nick

 

[Buddy G]

Thanks for the good info. I have an occasional need to test a device using a hydraulic motor, and would like to use the hydraulics on my 3032e. Since it's occasional, can I just add quick disconnects to my existing circuit near my loader control valve?

 

[kennyd]

Thanks for the good info. I have an occasional need to test a device using a hydraulic motor, and would like to use the hydraulics on my 3032e. Since it's occasional, can I just add quick disconnects to my existing circuit near my loader control valve?

Yes, that's fine.

 

[J_J]

If you install QD's before the loader valve, install a relief valve on the pump line before the QD to protect the pump in case you forget that the pump is pumping all the time the engine is running.

 

[Buddy G]

That's a good point. I plan to put the QD's after the loader valve, and am hoping I can use the loader valve to throttle the hydraulic motor. I guess as long as I have a pressure and return line just like on the loader cylinders, it should work. Thanks guys-