Rear Remotes

[jinman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I went to another dealer today to get some other numbers ....as far as I can tell my "problem" is that a got a tc-48 and not a tc-40! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Looking at the dealer parts book, the 48s remotes do come as two parts while the 40s come complete and the total price (list) is about $500 while for the tc40 it is $225. Pretty strange ...I bet your remotes will put out as much as these. Ah well I guess I will just have to live with my "problem" or trade it in on a tc-40 /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif...No thanks...It still is a little hard to believe tho'
thanks much for the thoughts )</font>

Thanks for clearing that up. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

The TC48 has a 12 gpm hydraulic system and its remotes must be able to handle the additional flow. There are also two types of remote valves for that tractor.

The normal type (like our Class III tractors) is a "return to center" valve. You can put up to three of those on your tractor. That valve has a linkage/handle/dust boot kit that also must be ordered as a "completion" kit. The remote is priced at $276 for the valve and $200 for the completion kit at full retail price.

The second type of remote for the TC48 is a "float-detent" type valve which can be manually locked into postion to provide a constant flow to an implement without having to use a bungee like we have to use on the class IIIs. That valve's retail price is $326 and requires the $200 completion kit also. The limiting factor with that type remote is that you can only put two of them on your tractor because they are physically larger than the return to center type.

So for the TC48, the full retail price is $476 for the first type and $526 for the second type since both use the same completion kit.

Overpriced?. . . . Probably /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[MikePA]

<font color="blue"> The normal type (like our Class III tractors) is a "return to center" valve. </font>
Class IIs are the same way, except we can only have 2 remotes instead of 3.

The "return to center" is great for a hydraulic top link.

The "float detent" would be great for my post driver, but a bungee cord has to suffice. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[KenVT]

Just picked up my Remote valve kit #1, Just wondering if it is better to use the leaklock, as recommended by Pineridge, or some other type of sealant, or if any is needed, (The dealer said none were needed), don't want to make it too hard on myself when adding the other remotes (when Money permits) /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[jinman]

You can use leaklock or carefully use teflon tape, but I recommend you use one or the other. Even using the sealer, you want to make sure the fittings are tight. There's nothing like getting it all together and finding out a week later that you have a tiny leak and dust is collecting all over your leaky fitting like a beard. Ask me how I know. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[PineRidge]

Jim's right whichever sealant that you decide to use will be fine. Actually on a flare type connection none is needed as your dealer stated. The seal on a flared connection takes place at the face of the fitting or the flare. The threads really don't do the sealing as much as they hold the connection tight. That said, the sealant does act as a lubricant so you are able to make the connection much tighter than if you used nothing at all to lubricate the threads before assembly. In the HVAC business I saw a few guys that swore by just using a drop or two of oil on the treads of a flared fitting to assist in the tightening procedure.

I gotta tell you though I installed all 3 rear remotes without a leak in any of the connections and we did use Leaklock because that is what I'm accustomed to using. Leaklock has another advantage of keeping the fitting tight after assembly. Anyone familiar with the product will tell you that a bit of heat from a torch is needed at times to disassemble a fitting sealed with Leaklock an advantage on any machine where vibration is certain to occur. I can't imagine having to go back and do it all over again because one or two connections did leak cause it wouldn't be nearly as much fun the second or third time around.

Use your better judgment and I'm sure things will work out for you. Good luck, and have fun.