Reclaiming Long Abandoned Rotary Cutters.

[Diggin It]

Undersides of these have a lot of surface rust, but nothing very deep. Due to the shape of the decks, they'll be difficult to grind/wire brush/sand. I can get some of it, but not all. I don't have a sand or shot blaster sufficient to tackle it.

What's good these days for sealing/reforming rust prior to painting?

 

[cglaser104]

I think you use a fine bristle wire brush pressed into the rust to remove as much as possible. After than, clean the area with a solvent (I always use non-ethanol gasoline) and a clean rag to remove dust and oily residues. Then use a good sand able primer, paint, then top coat. If your trying to blend into existing paint/powder coat make sure to scuff and clean the surface of the paint/powder coat so the new stuff adheres.

 

[Diggin It]

^^ No PC or similar, nor blending. Just want something for the underside to abort whatever rust there is. I know the first use will demolish most of the paint again, but some should remain. Tops of the red and yellow will be repainted if I can find matching colors and new labels. They'll have to be disassembled of all spindles and brackets first though.

 

[Diggin It]

Top of red has a lot of loose rust and pitting also. Most of it is coming off with a sanding disk on an angle grinder. Should be OK once repainted, but surface won't be smooth as new. Paint might fill some of the pits, but not all.

Blades for gray are an odd metric size, but I'll find something.

 

[Diggin It]

Getting back to these slowly. No progress over the Winter.

Need to remove the upper belt pulleys on Red. Got the nuts off, but the pulleys won't budge. Guessing I need a puller unless anybody has other ideas. I tapped on them gently and soaked with lube. Might try some heat in the morning. If I need a puller, which of the HF ones is most likely to work? Pulleys are about 7" OD (two singles and one double) , appear to be cast something with holes, so I'm not sure about how much force a puller might apply. Definitely don't want to break one of these:

 

[Diggin It]

If I took those four mounting bolts out (under the pulley, through the deck) and used a piece of pipe or similar to get around the grease zirk, then hit the pipe with a mallet, would I be able to apply enough force to drive the shafts out?

Remove bolts.
Let pulley rest on deck.
Use pipe and mallet to drive shaft (with blade on) out bottom.

Maybe?

 

[flyerdan]

What I would do on that is get this puller, get some big heavy washers or pieces of metal to act as washers behind the pulley. Use bolts and nuts as close to the hub as you can get to secure the puller. Snug it up good and use an air hammer with a chisel ground flat to give a few bursts at the bottom of the boss where the shaft is stuck. Snug up the puller and blast again, after a few rounds of that it should come off. Nice thing about doing it that way is you don't risk breaking the pulley by pulling on the rim, and don't have to take the whole thing apart.

 

[Diggin It]

and don't have to take the whole thing apart.

I need to take it all apart though. The only reason I need the pulleys off is to drop the spindles out so I can clean the rust off the deck and repaint. Just trying to decide if I need a puller like you mentioned or if I can do it the other way I posted.

 

[stuckmotor]

My 30+ year old Woods Cadet has a straight blade carrier. I got it off with one of the HF two jaw pullers they had a few years ago. The ones they have now look the same. 3 Piece Two-Jaw Puller Set
On second thought thought, those pulleys would likely bend unless you could get a grip under the heavy part that goes around the shaft.

I sometimes remove fly wheels from push mowers by prying carefully with a lever while hammering the end of the shaft with an air punch inserted into the hole that's already there.

 

[5030]

Here's how I'd do it (and have in the past btw)...

1. Soak around the sheave and shaft with either a 50-50 mix of acetone and red ATF or P'Blaster and let it sit for a few days...then..

2. Remove the zerk fitting and screw the nut back on so it's sitting proud of the top of the shaft (so as not to bugger the threads and take a small piece of flat stock and lay across the nut. Put on a 3 jaw puller (I recommend the HF 12 ton hydraulic gear puller myself) and tighten it up against the sheave and flat stock on the top of the nut. Just suck it up pretty tight, don't attempt to pull the sheave.

3. Take a regular propane torch and heat the area around the sheave boss and the shaft, heat it thoroughly and tap around the sheave boss and shaft with a brass hammer. Then, let it cool a bit and use the puller to remove the sheave. It will dome right off with little persuasion.

I do that like I described all the time. The heat coupled with the penetrating solvent will break the rust bond and allow removal of the sheave. Never had it fail me, never screwed up any parts either.