Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road

   / Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road #31  
Fifty foot rise in just over 500 feet should make an overall grade of a little more than ten %. ( rough number just sitting here and knowing the 540 feet is a little more than the horizontal distance. )
 
   / Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road #32  
I have built all my heavy haul roads here just using string, a line level, and a 100 foot tape measure, and they have met Federal Funding guidelines.

To do this by yourself, you need to get a stake or rod to pound into the ground with a hammer, then tie your string on, run it out, and then measure it level with the line level pulling the string very tight. You then measure the height of the level string, and that will tell your grade. As you go down the hill, record your findings on paper and this will map out your road via grade changes.

I like to do my sections in 25 foot increments...

I also use string to set the centerline of my roads, and to establish finish grade.

Similar method was used in the stone age!:laughing:
 
   / Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road #34  
To op, how is the power company getting there? Old road, new road, or straight line. This may make a difference. I know they like to go straight with overhead and setting the least number of poles. Went thru the trees across the highway from me, straight thru the planted pine trees, cutting a wide path. The road is about 40 feet to one side with a little curve in it. Under ground is great but expensive.
 
   / Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road #35  
To op, how is the power company getting there? Old road, new road, or straight line. This may make a difference. I know they like to go straight with overhead and setting the least number of poles. Went thru the trees across the highway from me, straight thru the planted pine trees, cutting a wide path. The road is about 40 feet to one side with a little curve in it. Under ground is great but expensive.

I had a discussion with the power Co. at my Summer cottage in Canada.
They agreed to zig zag across the driveway to keep the forest cut width down.
It cost me more; for a guy wire on each pole, and one or two more poles (9 total).
The cut width was 40' total though, with the driveway through the center.
The poles were not an ugly sight.
 
   / Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road
  • Thread Starter
#36  
mred2, there is a power pole on the hill about 250 feet from new home site and 90 degrees off of that is an absolute straight line right to the new home. At least one large tree will have to be removed. We will have 1, or maybe 2 poles branch off of that (depending on how far they will allow between poles) and then go underground to the new home. Underground will be costly - the local propane company is the least expensive trenching service, and I can run the underground conduit and cable from the last pole to the home - have done that before - all inspected. A concern is that this hill top is very rocky - so trenching may not be an easy go.

A few years ago I changed from overhead to underground lines to the house and they allowed a certain distance as I recall. In that circumstance since I installed a new pole and then installed the conduit underground from that pole to the house, they did not charge me anything (I was surprised). I think it was because the length of the existing overhead wires from the transformer to the house were the same length of the new overhead wires from the transformer to the new pole from which I went underground - even though they put in entirely new overhead wire.

We, and power company, can get to the hill top two ways - one a bit steep and short and a sharp angle tho doable - and another the much longer existing road to the top. They are very fire conscious (California!) and every year send a crew up to check trees all along the course of the wires. I try to tell them where I see potential issues.

Next issue though is the well. County Fire requires 2500 gal storage tank (we will go bigger) and booster pumps from the tank for home fire protection sprinkler system. And County requires a well test to show sufficient water. We should hit enough water (the lower main house well gets 21 gpm -down 420 feet). The well guy suggests we go a minimum of 300 feet and that with an appropriately storage sized tank we may only need to hit about 2 gpm - though we expect more. Now they also (in addition to the steel casings for the first 70 feet) put in a 4" PVC sleeve with holes all the way down to protect the pipe, wire and well from rocks breaking away and jamming things up. He said without that if rocks break away and jams the pump up they may not be able to get it out.

Wow, I see I have rambled on a bit. Anyway, thanks for the heads up.
 
   / Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road #37  
Down here a ways South of you, the fire folks also require a fire fitting on storage tank separate from the other piping so they can use the water supply. A friend of mine put in a new home a couple of years ago and they also required a minimum 5,000 gal. tank. This is out where it is at least 2 miles to the nearest hydrant. Fire is a real big deal out here and anyone who has lived in this state for any length of time knows it and you will see very little, if any, argument about fire regulations.
 
   / Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road
  • Thread Starter
#38  
Down here a ways South of you, the fire folks also require a fire fitting on storage tank separate from the other piping so they can use the water supply.

Same here. I have talked to staff at County Fire and they advised about a number of things - absolute minimum tank size is 2500 gallons - larger perhaps if your water production is very, very low. And said it has to be fitted with a 4 1/2 inch special outlet for connection to a fire hose, and fire trucks need to be able to get very near to it. Staff there was very helpful - willing to spend time explaining it all and making recommendations re sizes, best plumbing options etc.. We are planning on going with a 4000 to 5000 gallon tank.

There are no hydrants anywhere - nearest town is 25 miles away. I always consider County Fire staff, County staff and others as assets and resources to help me get it right. But not everyone up here agrees with that.
 
   / Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road #39  
Where I live there is no water storage requirement for rural areas. They truck water in and if they can not keep up, your house burns down.
 

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