Reducing bush hog can opener effect

[compact]

I ground a smooth curve into the trailing edge tips of the suction blades and rounded the top. Kind of golf ball shaped on the top edge. It makes a smooth welt on the deck instead of a sharp crease or tear. 3 years now and I think its working well.

 

[jim44]

I must say that I'm not familiar with any suction blades on bush hogs. I never have noticed a "can opener" effect either. Are you saying that the blades are hitting the underside of the deck? If that's what's happening, I'd say that you have a much bigger problem than how the ends of the blades are shaped. Could you 'splain a little more?

Just as a general rule, I am pretty dense, so maybe it's just me...............

 

[Gary Fowler]

I also don't understand the issue OR the fix. No bush hog I ever saw had "suction blades" and not sure what is meant by can opener effect.
More response and maybe a photo by the OP please.

 

[dieselcrawler]

I get it... seen many old, beat, rusty brush hog decks with a ring worn into them where the tips of the blades have beat it up... some bad enough where it looks like a big can opener did it...

Some blades are flat at the cutting tip, others, like mine, are bent up to create 'lift' or suction to lift the grass for a cleaner even cut, like a lawn mower blade...

My guess is that years of bouncing off things on the ground sends the blades rebounding towards the deck, and once there's a bit of wear on the shoulder bolts the hold the blades to the pan, there's enough loose movement to allow this scenario to take place...

 

[compact]

Dieselcrawler is correct. Photo of early dent with sharp cornered blade, with later dent from rounded. 1st dent also has been hit a few times since with rounded edge blades. About 300 acres on the cutter at this point. Stealth rocks are a fact of life in many northern new england pastures, pretty much any light / medium duty cutter will collect these.

 

[LD1]

Yes, they make suction blades for bush hogs. Thats all I use.

Yes I have seem many decks that look like a can-opener cut it up.

The issue is not because a high lift blade was used. The issue is you have something wore out. Either the gearbox, the output shaft, stump jumper, or blade bolts. The Blades should NEVER contact the deck.

Grinding the high lift wing is a band-aid fix masking a bigger problem

 

[dieselcrawler]

Likely new blades and matching new shoulder bolts will tighten up the amount of up travel in the blades... or, like my dad's brush hog, you use it for 30 years and just buy a new one, cause the whole thing is junk by then!

 

[John_Mc]

When you hit a lot of rocks, the blades will bend up over time. The more they bed, the more likely they are to make contact with the underside of the deck the next time they hit a rock. (Voice of experience here. Simply replacing the blades fixed that problem.)

 

[Zebrafive]

You could have a band/ring of steel rolled and then weld it to the bottom of the deck. Standard equipment on some cutters.

 

[GrandLakeGAR]

. Can opener effect from too many rocks.

 

[stuckmotor]

+1 on replacing the blades and bolts? Oh, and check that everything is not wobbly with the gearbox and carrier.

 

[PatrickS2222]

Hello All I can't help but grin (with no negativity at all) each time I see these described as bush hogs - probably because when I first joined this site, it took me so long to work out exactly what implement it was! We refer to it here in Australia as a slasher :laughing: Not to worry - I'm still learning American, but progressing well
Regarding damaged decks and "can-opener effect" either the deck sheeting on yours is a lot thinner than ours, or your rocks have teeth! :laughing: The only damage to our deck is from rust from living outside - looks bad atm - I'll get to it at some stage. It's 3mm (1/8") plate - maybe that's why it's so heavy! :thumbsup: It has been re-sheeted twice so far and needs it again It is a 5'6" cut, a Campbell brand, manufactured here I believe. Although it's over 45 years old, it is in good mechanical condition, I must add it's got a huge gearbox, as well as a huge - 3ft or so dia; 3/8" thick - flywheel underneath and a slip clutch.
I wonder at the blades hitting the deck - they'd need to be severely bent. Ours are about 5" under the deck. I did bend them after running onto a short tree-stump concealed in thick grass. Nothing else, only 3/8 x 3 x 12" blades bent - I had to remove them and press them straight again! :laughing: Took the opportunity to put a slight twist in them to give a little lifting effect, put a well-defined edge back on them and grease their 7/8" dia bolts.

BTW, I remember we had trouble keeping oil in the gearbox - the lower shaft seal would always seem to leak. We solved that by mixing enough gear oil with some grease to give it about the same viscosity as molasses That has to have been at least 30 years ago ..... but it worked! We have never had to renew any bearings, and the gears still look quite Ok. :thumbsup: The same idea is great for manual steering boxes too - swo many times we find all the oil has leaked out, then the box has worn out! Nowadays the real product is available - marketed as "Liquid Grease" - well worth keeping in mind.

 

[jim44]

That terminology is pretty interesting. Seems that "bush hog" is the most common term in spite of the fact that it is actually a brand name of a lot of equipment. I'd say that "rotary cutter" probably comes in second. Where I come from, they are known as "shredders". Down there, the tops usually survive very well, but the side panels are beat all to heck. And I must say it doesn't do the back much good to back it into a tree. Being parked out in the weather is where most of the top damage comes from.

 

[Zebrafive]

That terminology is pretty interesting. Seems that "bush hog" is the most common term in spite of the fact that it is actually a brand name of a lot of equipment. I'd say that "rotary cutter" probably comes in second. Where I come from, they are known as "shredders". Down there, the tops usually survive very well, but the side panels are beat all to heck. And I must say it doesn't do the back much good to back it into a tree. Being parked out in the weather is where most of the top damage comes from.

You are correct BUSH HOG is Brand. They are a leader in rotary cutters so that might be why the name carrys over. In my area they are called BRUSH hogs.

 

[LD1]

I dont worry about political correctness. I call it a bushhog. Anyone and everyone around here knows exactly what you are talking about.

We also call adjustable wrenches "crescent wrenches", we call slip joint pliers "channel locks", we call locking pliers "vice grips", and we call hex keys "allen wrenches"

 

[PatrickS2222]

All quite correct - and now I know what you are referring to as well And no, I don't care for political correctness either! :laughing:
But that's a whole different topic - needs its own thread. That way, every minority group can keep its dis-proportionate influence active, and we the silent majority can stay focused on getting some quality seat time, and some work done! :thumbsup:

BTW ... My loader doesn't have any counterweight, but has 3PL, so my "bush hog" is a real good help in that regard - has been used quite a lot lately.

If it is of interest:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/367756-building-our-new-dam.html

Keep up the good work guys :drink:

 

[drizler]

I have a Farmforce brand 5' and I know well the can opener effect . It's called a cheap tin deck and it doesn't take much to start it going on, just a few rocks. When you have a deck made out of cheap stamped tin it just happens. You can hear the difference between a good one and a piece of junk. Nice heavy steel makes a dull clack or thud when you hit heavy branches. Mine rings like a damned bell just like banging a hammer on an old 55 gallon drum. This winter or next I am going to tear the gear box off and just make a real body out of real steel and fix the beer can deck issue.