Refueling effort

[SpringHollow]

Hanging the gas can from a strap from the ceiling works very well like I said earlier. Very low tech but works. Since you use an adjustable cargo strap, you can adjust the height to what you need. Just wrap the lower hook around the handle and hook back onto the strap if the hook is not big enough to attach to the handle.

Ken

 

[zeuspaul]

I made a syphon hose from fuel line and a priming bulb purchased at a marine store. The priming bulb is what you see between the fuel tank and outboard engine on a power boat.

I lay a board across the FEL arms and put the five gallons of diesel on the board. Then start the syphon with the bulb and go to lunch. If in a hurry you can speed the transfer by continuously squeezing the bulb.

Zeuspaul

 

[horse7]

My old Massey had the center mount filler, a PITA to fill with the sunken small fuel filler opening. If I was still using the Massey one of the siphon ideas would be useful since a 5 gallon jug can be set on the flat hood and would be higher than than the tank.

The TN has a rear filler with a very large opening-- maybe 10-15cm-- can set a 5 gallon jug's lip on the edge and pour in, easy access from the rear. The sound changes when the upper part of the tank has about 20% empty left in it, although I look in every now and then anyway. (20% is considerably less than 5 gallons! The whole molded tank is about 28 gallons)

I would not like the idea of 300 gallons of diesel up high in a building as one person suggested, the tank could rupture in a fire just when the fire dept is trying to put the fire out (wouldn't be the first time such a thing has happened either). It would be better if the tank was visible outside so they know what they are dealing with-- and as an added bonus you don't waste relatively expensive indoor space for a tank.

 

[chh]

A 250 to 500 gallon metal outdoor tank on a stand would make much more sense than 300 gallons in your attic. I use a 500 gallon, have it filled when necessary and keep a padlock on the shutoff valve.

 

[patrick_g]

I stood around in the sun at an auction and bought an overhead diesel tank on a stand. ($75) I get fuel deliveries so I don't have to use a ladder and 5 gal cans to fill it. If I had it to do over I would have just bought a couple good 50 gal drums which I could put in the pickup and fill at any vendor of off road diesel and not have to only use those who will deliver.

Then at home I could use the FEL to unload the drums from the truck and to put them on an elevated outdoor stand so the fuel will gravity flow to fill the tractor. Essentially the same setup I have now except smaller and with more flexibility. I use STABIL to extend the storage life of the diesel as 300 gal lasts a while. I will cut back to 100-200 gal per delivery next time.

The only complaint I have is that the fueling nozzles designed for gravity flow do not have automatic shutoff (please straighten me out if they are available) when the tractor tank is full so you have to stand there and hold the nozzle. It isn't a big deal, just a minor nit. It isn't enough of a problem that I would buy an electric pump so I could use an autoshutoff nozzle. I have a good filter with cartridges that stop particulate matter and water so the fuel I dispense is clean and I hardly ever see anything in the tractor's fuel filter. The shutoff valve at the bottom of the tank just before the filter body has provision for a padlock but I have never used one.

I was concerned that if anything went wrong I'd have up to 300 gal of diesel in one of my nearby ponds so I built a little catch basin/sump out of used/recycled concrete blocks on top of a poured concrete floor. The capacity of the sump is enough to hold 300 gal of fuel plus 18 inches or so of rain water without overflowing. I have a drain in the side at the bottom (ball valve) so I can drain water out from under any fuel. So far no ecological disaster averted but it made me feel better and I don't mind draining rain water every so often even though the frogs are not happy about losing habitat.

Again, If I had it to do over I'd be using a few good steel drums which I could put on a raised platform with my FEL and move the valve/filter/hose and nozzle from drum to drum. My tractor takes a little less less than 10 gal per fueling and will work hard most all day on a tank so I don't really need the 300 gal overhead tank.

I recall the "FUN" I had hoisting 5 gal containers of diesel up to pour into and spill onto the tractor. Nearly any system listed in this thread is way better than that.

Pat

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Plastic tanks/containers weather 5 gallons or 500 gallons with combustible or flammable liquids and fire is not a good thing. The fire melts the container and the fire intensity very quickly. The bigger the container the larger and more fire you will have and the more damage will occur. So just ask yourself can I loose this building and be OK with it? Shed out back, barn, garage, home, all choices for the location of the storage container.

I am in the fire protection business and I can tell you even with automatic fire sprinklers operating the fire is not extinguished with a plastic container over about 50 gallons. So if you use a plastic container to store gas or diesel keep in mind the structure you have it in will most likely not be the same if a fire occurs. Metal tanks are always the smart choice, that is why that oil tank you have in your basement is metal as well as those above ground tanks for gasoline. The metal tank does not fail and release it's contents all at once.

Metal safety cans is the the safe choice for storage of and flammable liquid. What is a flammable liquid? Any liquid with a flash point (the temperature flammable vapours are given off that can be ignited) below 100 F, a combustible liquid has a flash point above 100F. Gasoline has a flash point of about -40F while diesel fuel is about 143F.

Here is an entire thread on gasoline storage I wrote a lot of technical code stuff in it, if you really want to know more. Bottom line make an informed decision once you understand the hazard on where and how to storage combustible and flammable liquids.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/oil-fuel-lubricants/13943-proper-gasoline-storage.html

 

[patrick_g]

Tom, In an ideal world we wouldn't need your help. In the mean time you and your brethren are sorely needed.

Isn't there a trade off between good high quality plastic storage containers for diesel and steel ones? I have seen way too many steel fuel containers that leaked. At least plastic doesn't rust out and start leaking while storing fuel. I have used lots of both. I always carried steel jerry cans on the back of my Jeep so that in case of a traffic accident there would be no survivors to sue each other. Not really, I carried them for extended range in the desert but used to wonder how big the fireball would be if some bozo ran into me on the freeway.

I don't store large quantities of fuel indoors and hope to eliminate it soon. I have recently procurred an old refrigerator to use as a flammable storage locker and by removing some shelves can accomodate 5 gal fuel cans as well as the smaller ones for premixed fuel for the collection of 2 stroke engines. Solvents and certain paints and other chemicals will go in there too.

Pat

 

[keving]

This is my solution.

That is beautiful. Can you provide an approx cost, source and capacity?

Thanks!

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Pat,

Cut that plug off that old refrigerator so no one thinks it needs to be plugged in.

Cans do not last forever, and need to be replaced, so when they need to be replaced buy a UL Type I safety can, they are the best. Type II if you will pour from it. Here is a link to a good overview of a safety can and what the makes a can a safety can. Check e-bay deals can be found.

http://www.justritemfg.com/pdf/UnderstandingSafetyCans.pdf

 

[SpringHollow]

I have recently procurred an old refrigerator to use as a flammable storage locker and by removing some shelves can accomodate 5 gal fuel cans as well as the smaller ones for premixed fuel for the collection of 2 stroke engines. Solvents and certain paints and other chemicals will go in there too.

Pat

I am not sure I like that idea. Most fire experts like non-vented flammable storage. From a chemists perspective however, I do not like the large concentrations of vapors that can build up causing exposure and possibly fire hazards when opened. I would rather risk greater property damage to a detached building in the unlikely instance of a fire than the daily(?) exposures resulting from opening the cabinet. Harder call if you have an attached garage but then I do not like attached garages because of the greater risks even if they are convenient.

We work with some potentially dangerous chemicals in small quantities (other than solvents) but our researchers get exposed to more chemicals when they fill their car's gas tank than working all week in their lab. Good ventillation helps prevent problems if something is not going as it should.

Also, I do not know that we have any flammable storage cabinets that seal as tightly as a refrigerator.

Just my personal opinion. Obviously, the experts can respond better.

Ken