Refurbishing a Ford 850

[Soundguy]

might have to visit a mom n pop hyds shop for a matchup.

 

[AA7TU]

Another mystery to solve, while the machine shop works on the above wiper carrier.

I had the engine running today and was hoping to set the timing using a standard timing light. However, I was not able to see any timing marks on the flywheel. I guessed that cylinder 1 is the most forward. But I ended up trying all the cylinders just out of curiosity. Nothing.

I'll see if I can turn the engine over by hand and maybe get a glimpse of something. Or perhaps rub a pencil in the hole while it is running and see if there is any spot that is abrasive.

Haven't done this before, so looking for any tips. I can't imagine the timing can be so far out and the engine still runs OK, but not show any marks.

 

[Soundguy]

run some chalk on the flywheel, after spraying some carb cleaner in the hole.

1 is indeed at front.

 

[AA7TU]

Thanks, that worked OK. The main problem was that the previous owners had not bothered to set the timing when installing new points, and so it was retarded to the point that the marks were not visible. I got the flywheel cleaned up, and as I set the timing more advanced the engine perked up quite a bit. That may be why it had used such excessive amounts of fuel just dragging its old bones here. I underestimated the levels to which some people will carry benign neglect.

What factors go into the recommended setting of 5 degrees? What is the drawback to going more advanced? I assume that it's about the power curve at some specific RPM (PTO speed?), given that there is no vacuum advance.

 

[Soundguy]

..but it does use a mechanical advance.

You have already seen what retarding too much will do.. mainly poor performance and fuel economy, occasionally backfiring, and possibly overheating.

Hard starting and pinging for too much advance.

 

[AA7TU]

Hopefully my last question for a while, as this project is about complete. On these Superior K-118 loaders, how to determine the fill level? The filler is at the top of the right tube, and I assume that full to the top is not the right idea. As the cylinders are all empty now, it is going to gulp a bunch filling those back up. I also don't see any place where an oil filter or screen of some sort is hiding.

As for the last remaining part, the oil seal/rod wiper on the lifter cylinders is 1.75 X 2.125 X .0187 inches. Such as
Sealsourceinc
These cylinders use aluminum holders that this part fits into (which I showed in my previous post), but one side was fractured and the other a bit rough, so I had the shop make two new ones, and all is good to go.

 

[Soundguy]

I havn't seen what your cyls look like, but DA cyls , once you have the air worked out, won't make the sump level change much from extended to retracted.. just the rod volume. If they are SA cyls, then once you work the air out, you want the sump to be full with cyls retracted. Some loader frames have a strainer in them, some don't.

 

[AA7TU]

These are SA for the loader arms, and DA for the bucket curl. No place for a strainer that I can see on this one. Now just left with converting to 12V, and I can test things out a bit.

Thanks for all the help!

As can be seen, I did not stick to tradition with the paint job, just wanted to use up left overs.

 

[Soundguy]

just noticed that your loader is very similar to my superior utility model loader.

 

[AA7TU]

Mine is the "industrial" model, from the appearance of the frame, but has only the one bucket curl cylinder, like the others:
Loader Model Types (2 pages)