Relative ride/comfort of BX-25D versus Kubota B2601

   / Relative ride/comfort of BX-25D versus Kubota B2601 #21  
Do yourself a favor and beg, borrow or steal a tractor powered tiller or good heavy disk/disc set up and till that land about 4 inches deep, then run a tooth harrow or a blade turned backwards and smooth everything out like a table top. In the long run this is your best option. Smooth land = happy spine! :) PS- If you are just looking for a excuse for a larger tractor tell your wife I said it was ok to buy something huge!!!
This might work in Texas, but here there would be a hard rain before the grass gets established washing ruts in your smooth land.
 
   / Relative ride/comfort of BX-25D versus Kubota B2601 #22  
In regards to how rough a ride you get vs tractor size, I have had tractors from garden tractor size (JD 332 diesel) to my LS P7010 and I cant say that any of them rid smooth. The smaller the tire, I suppose creates less give but not so much that a larger tire will smooth out a rough spot. In my opinion, the reason "SOME" of the larger tractor seem to ride smoother is because of better seat suspension and perhaps 10-20% due to larger tires.
Don't expect to get a smooth ride by buying a larger tractor, it ain't gonna happen unless you upgrade the seat at the same time.
 
   / Relative ride/comfort of BX-25D versus Kubota B2601 #23  
I am often at a loss trying to understand the members here who have to deal with rough lawns and property. I would think that one of the main reasons for buying a tractor would be for improvements such as grading and smoothing. While I understand everyone has a different approach it would seem that reworking a rough lawn or pasture into a smooth and properly graded one would be a prime use for the equipment. It seems that a lot of people choose to buy seat and suspensions rather than fixing the inherent problems. It doesn't take that much equipment to make a lawn or small field super smooth, and then mowing in the years to come is much easier to do.

Greetings Jenkinsph,

I take it you aren't in a northern climate.
I have 2 lawns within 2 miles of each other. 1 is 1 acre with no irrigation system and clay base with planted grass from many years ago (mostly flat lawn).

The 2nd is 1.3 acres with irrigation system and 1/2 sodden bluegrass with the other half seeded bluegrass mixed. All of it is clay base with 2 to 5 inches of black dirt and special compost underneath. This lawn is heavily sloped in 60% of the lawn and is 7 years old.

Yard 1 heaves greatly each winter as old flat farm clay will do. Then it unheaves as spring thaws show up in Western WI.

This lawn over the years has washboarded a fair amount and a normal zero turn tractor suspension makes it a fitful mowing activity in some places and a mildly jarring activity in the rest. My new GC1715 with its vastly improved seat and suspension makes it nearly imperceptible of washboarding . . and makes it very pleasant and faster cuttibg as well. On occasion I dirt fill some of the rougher spots (10' by 10') areas. To do as you suggest would cost 400 to 500 dollars just in a "park mix seed" plus labor to seed and till and reseed once again the spots that don't take hold. It would be a full summer of watering and growing efforts . . only to deal with winter heaving the next year.

The 2nd property is not wasboarded at all but moles and gophers create considerable changes and some kill sections and of course issues from mole hills and tunneling. The lawn is quite attractive and mostly maintenance free except the moles and cutting. But over time the moles and dead spots and winter heaving and slopes will alter it some too.

Doing as you suggest on this 1.3 acres would cost 4000.00 for just the sod and 400 for seed areas plus considerable 3 man labor costs/effort including myself. And then there is the issue of the irrigation system pipes and sprinklers.

Again . . my GC1715 setup with factory deluxe seat . . Makes this an effortless and fun lawn cutting efgort with no jarring or pounding. Winter and moles can do their worst . . and its still pleasant.

What I had noted in my test drives on BX product compared to the GC1715 was a considerably noticeable difference in ride comfort. I noted my wheel sizes and wheelbase are not much different than the larger BX units . . but comfort was quite different. My back or knee are never a problem on the Massey scut.

As to small cut sizes being more comfortable . . I'd question the cost and manueverability issues. My 3rd land location with slope I could afford to have a cat grade the whole thing of past farm furrows and rough spots many times over compared to a cut cost increase. But a single cat grading would make that 1.5 acres quite comfortable for my scut to operate on without jarring.
 
   / Relative ride/comfort of BX-25D versus Kubota B2601 #24  
In regards to how rough a ride you get vs tractor size, I have had tractors from garden tractor size (JD 332 diesel) to my LS P7010 and I cant say that any of them rid smooth. The smaller the tire, I suppose creates less give but not so much that a larger tire will smooth out a rough spot. In my opinion, the reason "SOME" of the larger tractor seem to ride smoother is because of better seat suspension and perhaps 10-20% due to larger tires.
Don't expect to get a smooth ride by buying a larger tractor, it ain't gonna happen unless you upgrade the seat at the same time.

I agree Gary. 10 inch deep old tractor plowed furrows are going to be rough with anything unless you're talking "field sized" tractors beyond small and mid sized cuts. Clearance changes . . . certainly . . but my thinking is larger tractors are much stiffer framed. Big wheel sizes might bridge a 10 inch plow furrow but the frame is going to be less forgiving too. Plus sitting much higher amplifies body movement and jostling.

Seats and suspensions are a focus imo.
 
   / Relative ride/comfort of BX-25D versus Kubota B2601 #25  
If only it were that easy! We have 100 acres, about 8 of which are grass that gets cut every 1-3 weeks during the months it needs to be cut. While we could cut down all of the pine trees and grind out the stumps and roots, we're not going to do that ($). We're also probably not going to till, level and replant all of our grass areas ($). We do maintain the main driveways and repair trails but keeping up with "emergencies" like fallen trees, washouts, etc. along with regular tasks like mowing, snow plowing, firewood, boundaries, maintaining 15 structures and related systems is enough. All this only on weekends and some evenings with just the two of us, occasionally some volunteer help. We have to prioritize. Having a better seat is easier than leveling 100 acres.

If we were on a three acre lot and it had a couple rough spots, trust me, they'd be fixed and I'd be fixing all of the neighbors rough spots too.


I understand what it takes to smooth and plant 100 acres. It does cost quite a bit and takes a lot of work and I have done it several times on various properties. In your case I can well understand that you have your hands full and work with what you have got (don't we all).

But the majority of the posters are dealing with much smaller properties and subcut or small cut tractors seem to be the normal here. This thread is an example, discussing the differences between the BX and B tractors. I watch for threads about lawn smoothing and renovating and rarely see them. It seems that all everyone wants to talk about is machinery.
 
   / Relative ride/comfort of BX-25D versus Kubota B2601 #26  
This might work in Texas, but here there would be a hard rain before the grass gets established washing ruts in your smooth land.

In the mountains with lots of slopes I smooth and replant in strips so that within two years I can cover most areas. There are a few places that are steep and putting up a fight though. I lived in TN as a kid for a few years and enjoyed fishing the TVA lakes with my dad but that was over 50 years ago.
 
   / Relative ride/comfort of BX-25D versus Kubota B2601 #27  
<snip>
So, I presume the bigger frame on a B2601 would provide more comfort. But without having had any tractor experience, I am wondering how to gauge the relative comfort of the two? I have a somewhat sensitive back, and once this arose during the SCUT shopping some folks advised me to consider a larger frame tractor even if the property doesn't actually need it.

What has your experience been regarding the bounce and bump level of a SCUT vs a CUT? I'm mostly just interested in comfort during mowing-- all my other project will be many less hours.
I've a B7610 w/ turfs unloaded. I've had 3 back surgeries and my back keeps on threatening. I don't drive it fast except on an occasional 4 mile road trip but it seems like a cushy ride. My M4700 w/ loaded rears is even smoother.

The BX's seem to have very small front tires.
 
   / Relative ride/comfort of BX-25D versus Kubota B2601 #28  
Just so you don't get confused plowhog,

Virtually all lawn mower and tractors use some form of coil seat suspension. The coils are in different sizes and support levels and are stiff. Then there is whats called spring suspension which is an additive to coil suspension. Spring suspension is far less stiff than coils and is designed to reduce the roughness that just coil suspension offers.

Think of it like a car or pickup. You have the very stiff susension on the rear axle which gives one form of suspension . . but then you also have shocks which soften the leaf spring harshness.

The massey gc1715/1720 seat offers both coil and spring suspension. Rough washboard ground on my zero turn is very very harsh and noticeable and on the GC1715 it is very smooth and pleasant.

Agreed. I noticed the same thing with my GC 1720. The overall ride compared to my Husqvarna garden tractor is much smoother. Very nice when doing work on the yard. Never seen it a issue as I am 6'2" and 230 lbs. Never found the seat to be issue during the tests. The 1710 seat is not as good though in my opinion. One of the biggest reason I went with the 1720 is seat and bit more pump flow/engine/ptop power.
 
   / Relative ride/comfort of BX-25D versus Kubota B2601 #29  
Another idea that is pretty simple. Do not over inflate the tires. Decrease tire pressure for a more comfortable ride when mowing. Then easily add in air for loader work etc... Same applies to loaded tires with a additional step. 2 ply vs ply tires make a difference as well. It's not just a matter of one variable. It's a culmination of multiple variables that will = ride comfort. Comfy seat, lower tires pressure, 2 ply turf tires vs R4 will all = smoother ride. Easy to overbuy a machine that is too big for your needs. I think under 5 acres a SCUT is enough. No need for a CUT unless heavy ground work. Mowing lawn = SCUT if it's the primary duty. A loaded 2601 TLB with same features as a GC 1720 TLB will run you $26k. I know because I had the same decision few months back. Decided less is more in this case.
 
   / Relative ride/comfort of BX-25D versus Kubota B2601 #30  
Greetings Jenkinsph,

I take it you aren't in a northern climate.
I have 2 lawns within 2 miles of each other. 1 is 1 acre with no irrigation system and clay base with planted grass from many years ago (mostly flat lawn).

The 2nd is 1.3 acres with irrigation system and 1/2 sodden bluegrass with the other half seeded bluegrass mixed. All of it is clay base with 2 to 5 inches of black dirt and special compost underneath. This lawn is heavily sloped in 60% of the lawn and is 7 years old.

Yard 1 heaves greatly each winter as old flat farm clay will do. Then it unheaves as spring thaws show up in Western WI.

This lawn over the years has washboarded a fair amount and a normal zero turn tractor suspension makes it a fitful mowing activity in some places and a mildly jarring activity in the rest. My new GC1715 with its vastly improved seat and suspension makes it nearly imperceptible of washboarding . . and makes it very pleasant and faster cuttibg as well. On occasion I dirt fill some of the rougher spots (10' by 10') areas. To do as you suggest would cost 400 to 500 dollars just in a "park mix seed" plus labor to seed and till and reseed once again the spots that don't take hold. It would be a full summer of watering and growing efforts . . only to deal with winter heaving the next year.

The 2nd property is not wasboarded at all but moles and gophers create considerable changes and some kill sections and of course issues from mole hills and tunneling. The lawn is quite attractive and mostly maintenance free except the moles and cutting. But over time the moles and dead spots and winter heaving and slopes will alter it some too.

Doing as you suggest on this 1.3 acres would cost 4000.00 for just the sod and 400 for seed areas plus considerable 3 man labor costs/effort including myself. And then there is the issue of the irrigation system pipes and sprinklers.

Again . . my GC1715 setup with factory deluxe seat . . Makes this an effortless and fun lawn cutting efgort with no jarring or pounding. Winter and moles can do their worst . . and its still pleasant.

What I had noted in my test drives on BX product compared to the GC1715 was a considerably noticeable difference in ride comfort. I noted my wheel sizes and wheelbase are not much different than the larger BX units . . but comfort was quite different. My back or knee are never a problem on the Massey scut.

As to small cut sizes being more comfortable . . I'd question the cost and manueverability issues. My 3rd land location with slope I could afford to have a cat grade the whole thing of past farm furrows and rough spots many times over compared to a cut cost increase. But a single cat grading would make that 1.5 acres quite comfortable for my scut to operate on without jarring.

Frost heave can be problematic I would agree. Sod is costly, I rarely use it and prefer seed instead. Don't think you need to hire a cat to remove farm furrows. A tiller, spike tooth harrow and land plane grader scraper come to mind.
I have small gofers on occasion and just smooth the mounds over with my small land plane.

Curious if a roller run in the spring would help with your frost heave?
 

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