Relieving Hydraulic Pressure - Best Method?

[Osconda]

Here's a picture of the hydraulic hose and couplers on the tractor.

 

[slowrev]

If you want to go thru the trouble and expense you can make a loopback hose that will connect the implement hoses back to the same cylinder on the attachment when it is not in use. Just use appropriate quck couplers on a short piece of hose. Also keeps the connectors clean.

Ben

 

[Osconda]

The residual back pressure is there immediately after removing the implement hoses. I don't see how it would be possible to connect the loop back hose, because of the back pressure. If I could, then I should be able to connect the regular hoses.

Am I understanding this right? Maybe I'm not understanding the concept of a loop back hose.

 

[BadDog]

I had the exact same problem with my grapple....

I solved it the following way:

1. Always drop the grapple teeth before disconnecting... that way gravity won't drop them for me, creating pressure in the grapple system.
2. Shut off the tractor so the pump isn't pushing fluid.
3. Operate the grapple control in both directions to equalize and relieve any pressure built up on either side of the control.
4. Disconnect the grapple and grapple hoses from the tractor.
5. Plug the grapple hoses into each other. Keeps them clean, and equalizes any additional pressure created by the sun warming up the grapple.
6. When reconnecting, do steps 2 and 3 once I have the grapple installed on the tractor but before I connect the hoses from the grapple to the tractor.

I've been following this procedure for a year now and have not had a problem since, *unless* I forget a step, then I have to get out my big flat-head screwdriver and open the hose fitting with a sharp tap on the driver with a hammer. It's all about relieving the pressure from the system *before* you disconnect the hoses.

By the way, I use the same procedure with my BH. I really hate it when I forget a step with the BH, because it means I have to get under the tractor (usually in the mud) and resort to the hammer and screwdriver... ...Grrrrr! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif At least my wife gets a laugh out of it. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Osconda]

Thanks BadDog! Great Advice! I don't think I've ever tried that exact sequence. I'll print this out and give it a try. I'm sure it'll work. Glad somebody already figured this out.
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[DMF]

Are those Parker fittings? They look like the same (similar) style I just used to plumb my tractor. I've had a bunch of problems re-connecting my dump wagon as well. I attached a photo of the lines I ran to the front. What has finally been working for me (knock on wood) is to:
1. Shut off the tractor.
2. Move the loader joystick in every direction so every thing is neutral.
3. Cycle each spool (3 of them) on my auxiliary valve.

If I do this faithfully, it appears to work. If I miss a step, it's curse time!

 

[BadDog]

My grapple is all Parker fittings...

 

[MadReferee]

Those are drybreak or non-spill couplers very similar to, but of a different manufacturer than, the pictures of the Snap-Tite ones I posted earlier.

DMF's couplers look like Parker FF series. You can read all about the Parker Fx series of non-spill couplers starting on page 23 HERE.

You should be able to depress the flat faces of the couplers to relieve pressure but it may take some uumph on your part.

 

[Osconda]

I believe my couplers are the FE type according to the description and by comparing my pics to the .pdf linked file from Parker's.

 

[Osconda]

DMF,

Sounds like you're saying you have three sets of rear remotes with those two hoses going to one set. If so, I don't understand the logic behind having to mess with the loader joystick. Isn't the loader independent of the rear remotes? I'll admit, I don't know much about hydraulics. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif