Remotes and Top and Tilt?

   / Remotes and Top and Tilt? #31  
Well, Ryan, I hope you got your questions answered. There are a couple of choices for you to consider. As you can see, some folks are very passionate about their decisions. You have to decide what is best for you.

Personally, I'd weigh if you ever will need the third circuit, or at least, if you will ever need it more than your $400.00. You could easily get off and swap hose connectors to power something else, if needed.

If you want to learn a little about hydraulics and how your machine works, etc... at least investigate the solenoid setup. It is very cost effective and extremely easy to use. Push button #1 and you control circuit #1 with a valve lever. Push button #2 and you control circuit #2 with the same lever. Push button #3 and you control circuit #3 with the same lever... you get it. You can multiply this by any number of circuits.

Good luck in your research.

Other folks, lets not complicate this too much. You can explain your position only so many times before folks stop listening. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
   / Remotes and Top and Tilt? #32  
ks,

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Implements I plan to add hydraulic cylinders to are ....:
<snip>
.... Country Manufacturing Dump Wagon - Tailgate )</font>

It would be neat to be able to fab up a mechanical hinge that would open as the bed was raised ... say opening 90° as the bed was raised 20° or so .....

It would be neat from the standpoint that it wouldn't require anything more than raising the bed to open the tailgate.

On the otherhand, having a hydraulically operated one would allow setting the tailgate to a specific opening to do tailgate spreads. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Remotes and Top and Tilt?
  • Thread Starter
#33  
First I want to say thank you very much for all of the information and ideas that came in on this. Obviously there are some very strong views on this matter. I do appreciate knowing all of the sides of this, I just wish I had more time to understand everything and devote to research and learning, problem is I work way too much and don't have a lot of free time.

With that being said I am still clueless as to the solenoid setup and would like to know more about this setup. Okay so here goes, I understand the lever thing with the Kubota remote, two hoses to one cylinder, push the lever one way the cylinder opens, push it the other it closes, so the top link say moves in and out with one remote, I can have three if I understand it right, so one more for the tilt and an extra to run another hydraulic implement if I ever got one and all three remotes and spaces for levers would be used up....Now for the solenoid setup,

1. Can you control more than three?

2. Doesn't there still have to be hoses to actuate the hydraulic cylinder, ? Where do these hook into the joystick,

I like the sounds of having the functionability of the solenoid but still do not completely understand it?

3. Where do you find the proper person to hook this system up?

4. Would it change your warranty from Kubota on stuff since it is a different system than what they recommend or use?

John,
You have two grapples, one front one back, I don't understand because with the conventional remotes you could only have three, if I understand right it would take two remotes to run one grapple? One to open one to close? Or am I all discombobulated?

Thanks again everyone for all your help...And hopefully we all learn something here....

Thanks again....

Ryan
 
   / Remotes and Top and Tilt? #34  
Ryan and all:

This afternoon I was all set to start up another big cut-n-paste job and thought way better of it. We all know that this is a forum where we all really just want to help each other, and I think we also all know how our very human-ness (why couldn't I have been a dog?) can complicate that. We all want to get along, I know we do. I sure do.

This is a great topic - did you know that this is a keen interest of mine? /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

I want to apologize for reacting/overreacting, and would like it very much if Jerry and Mad would forgive me for that and continue in this thread. I would like this thread to keep going on, in a spirit of healthy exchange, to figure out how we can sort this thing out and maybe help those who want further help to get some useable answers. I also have an idea about getting dealers in on all of this in a mutually beneficial and PROFITABLE fashion. More to come on that.

I really didn't like my last post where I asked for permission to answer, that was not great form and I asked the moderator to delete it, along with Mad's reply that it prompted, for the good of the thread. Thanks moderator.

Mad, Jerry, please come back, we need you! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Jerry, I know that you said it was your last post here, but I hope you'll accept my apologies and reconsider. I think I understand why you said that, that you thought it best considering the way this thread was heading, but I'd like it to take a better direction than that. I really think this is a very worthwhile topic and I think we can talk about in in peace.

Ryan, I'm sure going to try to answer every single one of those questions in this and my next post hopefully. If you study the 5030 skidder thread carefully all this will make more sense too. The process is not too bad really, and yours and others' would be even smoother than mine. The learning curve will keep getting flatter and flatter. And no it won't void your warranty, no way Jose.

A hydraulic solenoid valve (I'm going to call it an HSV from now on) has two joined halves. Half of it is an electric solenoid, the other half is the valve body that the hydraulic fluid flows through and in and out of the ports. The ports (1/2" 'll do ya) conduct the fluid in the valve body into the hydraulic hoses that you screw into them using the same type of hose and fittings as you would use with remotes.

The general definition of a solenoid is an electrical component that moves a lever, or moves something, when current is applied to it, 12 volts in this case. A joystick, as I have been referring to it, is just a handle that sends the electric current to the appropriate solenoid through sets of contacts that get closed or opened when you move the joystick in different directions. If you wanted a box blade to come up, you'd push the handle forward. 12 volts would go to the solenoid that's connected to the valve body that the hose going to that cylinder is attached to, and the box blade comes up. When the solenoid receives the 12 volts, a lever opens or closes a valve in the valve body, allowing or not allowing the pressurized (around 2,500 psi) hydraulic fluid to flow throught the port and through the hose. So pushing the joystick forward accomplishes the same as pushing a "remote" lever forward.

OK, that said, I'll try to answer your questions in order:

<font color="blue"> 1. Can you control more than three? </font>

The only limit to how many HSV's you can have is how many do you need and where to locate them. It's wide open. You can have single ones, like the one that operates my front grapple, that is controlled by the rocker switch on my loader handle. My front grapple has only one hydraulic function - open/close. [Any attachment with only one hydraulic function requires just ONE HSV or remote to operate it. Either one would perform BOTH the open and close, or left and right, or up and down, whatever. You don't need one valve to do one direction of the function, and another valve to do the other]. My rear grapple itself has two hydraulic functions - grapple arms open/closed, and lift arms/lower arms. I have a triple bank of Vickers HSV's mounted behind the seat on the ROPS. The four hoses to handle these two functions go into two of the valve bodies on them. The third HSV will control the hydraulic top-link cylinder that I am going to add. The joystick to the right of my seat, where the remote levers would have been, controls (sends current) to one, two, or all three of the HSV's depending on how the joystick is moved in its two axes (clockwise from 9:00 - left, left-forward, forward, forward-right, right, right-rear, rear, rear-left). When its pushed l-r-f or b, one solenoid is energized, moving one cylinder. In the other positions, two are energized at the same time, moving two cylinders. There's a rocker switch on the top of the joystick that will energize the third HSV that will operate the top link cylinder, to give the rear grapple greater range of motion.

But you can put HSV's wherever you want them, in any configuration. A single, double, triple, quad, any combination. And then just send current to them using any type of joystick you want, selected for ergonomics, size, shape, number of buttons, whatever or however you want to control whatever implement. My front loader uses a single. A triple was perfect for the rear grapple, so they joystick I selected has 3 functions too.

<font color="blue">2. Doesn't there still have to be hoses to actuate the hydraulic cylinder, ? Where do these hook into the joystick, </font> You got question 2a right. They're still working on hoseless hydraulics - until that day comes, we're stuck with them. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif As for 2b, now you know where they go, and what the joystick does. (Not that! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif)

<font color="blue"> I like the sounds of having the functionability of the solenoid but still do not completely understand it?
</font> Well you sound like a fine young man with a good inquiring mind, I'll try my best to help you understand it as I continue to learn myself. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

<font color="blue">3. Where do you find the proper person to hook this system up? </font>

Dangerous question, but I'll try to handle it well. This was my experience, maybe that will help. When I decided on my rear grapple, before buying my (did I mention my first ever?)tractor (hey behave now /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif), I started thinking about how I was actually going to control it. I decided that I did not want to have to throw individual levers to control one function at a time. It would have been a royal pain to close, then lower, then maybe close some more, or open a little, or lift some, all while reaching for different handles. I kinda knew about HSV's, they're on a lot of things. Many front grapples on the tractors here on TBN for instance. Some have diverter valve setups which I do not favor becasue of the extra button pushing and loss of the function that's being diverted away from. I don't know which one is more prevalent.


Shoot, I have to finish this tomorrow. But I found someone all right. I think you can too.

And here's the dealer idea - have Kubota get on board with offering single or dual front HSV's, and double, triple or quad rear HSV's, along with a variety of joysticks, including an optional loader handle with built-in rocker switch, just like on the JD110 TLB. Everybody wins. Food for thought.

Nite all.
 
   / Remotes and Top and Tilt?
  • Thread Starter
#35  
John,

Thanks for the explanation, if you wouldn't mind, what does a setup like this cost? installed? And in what direction do I look for someone to install it?

Thanks again,

Ryan
 
   / Remotes and Top and Tilt? #36  
I like what you have done CT TREE GUY.
Maybe you should start a new thread just on this topic alone. I'm sure it would get quite a good following. I'd like to see what other's have done on similar setups.

Thanks
Aaron
 
   / Remotes and Top and Tilt? #37  
I'm certainly at least going to look into the solenoid issue when talking to my dealer about a new machine. This is one of those "I could live without it, but it sure would be nice to have it" things. You can live without the solenoids just fine, but if you have them, I can see where it would be a really nice feature to have on a tractor that you'll be using over the next 5, 10, 15, or 20 years.

While putting the 160 hours on my little subcompact, there have been numerous instances where I wished I had a certain convenience setup on my machine, and at the time you are wishing you had something, you're thinking about how the added expense would have been worth the extra up-front money. One thing I've found over the years, is that when I make a large purchase, and don't go for all the options that are available in order to save some money or I'm having a difficult time justifying the upgrade, that at some point down the road, I end up replacing the first item with a better item (be it tools, cars, trucks, tractors, etc.). One thing about doing it this way is that it ultimately costs me more money in the long run.

Sometimes, I have to wait a little longer to get exactly what I want until I can afford to get it just the way I want it, but doing it this way ends up saving me money (think about all the depreciation losses and additional taxes buying multiple new machines). It doesn't always work this way, but I'm in the process of looking for a new, bigger machine, and this time, I'm going to get a machine that I don't have to trade in for a new one in another few years. If that means that my new machine is another year or two away, instead of happening this spring, then so be it. At least I have something to hold me over. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Sorry for the tangent, but this whole solenoid issue has really sparked my interest, especially since I am looking to move up to something like the L3430 or 3830. Thanks Tree Guy, for at least bringing up the issue to this hydraulics novice. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
   / Remotes and Top and Tilt? #38  
<font color="blue">Sorry for the tangent </font>

Hi Ed -

That was no tangent, to me that was poetry. I loved what you said, and the way you said it. You expressed very well exactly how I like to go about doing things. What steps should I take, and in what order should I take them, to deliver to me the best result for the time, money and energy that I spend? Very, very well said. You know, with that focused, analytical mind of yours, you should have been an architect /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Aaron, thanks for the kind words. I've opined a lot in my posts about peace, love, understanding and communal growth, and about "the direction in which I try to steer my little boat". I feel very good about the course correction, and it makes me feel good that you liked it.

Ryan, hang in there. You have expressed a desire to learn more, and I'll help you the best I can. In the process, for the benefit of others who are not interested in this subject, I will resist the temptation to be like the boy scout who tried to help the little old lady across the street who didn't WANT to go across the street.

****************

One of my "background processes" is the search for an appropriate "signature". One that often comes to mind is the title of an Elvis Costello song .... "What's so funny 'bout peace, love and understanding?" I've always liked that song.

Peace to all,

John
 
   / Remotes and Top and Tilt?
  • Thread Starter
#39  
that all makes sense, thank you everyone for the information, now I just wish my tractor would be ready so they can bring it to me.....
 
   / Remotes and Top and Tilt? #40  
Great Thread!
It seems to me that in order to control two cylinders thru valves that are either open or closed, as HSVs are, it would require a flow divider to prevent all flow going to the least resistance. Is this how it is done?

When you flip the rocker switch you go from controlling HSVs #1&2 to controlling solely #3, dont you?

My tractor came with 2 remotes with float included. Is there any reason they would have to be removed if I wanted to add further remote capability with HSVs.
Larry
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

MAH QUICK ATTACH MAST W/ 48" FORKS (A51246)
MAH QUICK ATTACH...
2023 New Holland Workmaster 25S Compact Tractor - Only 65 Hours (A53472)
2023 New Holland...
2016 Freightliner 114SD Tandem Axle Dump Truck, VIN # 1FVHG3DV7GHHL8161 (A51572)
2016 Freightliner...
New/Unused CFG Industrial QK20R Mini Excavator (A51573)
New/Unused CFG...
2003 Pierce Tilt Cab Foam Pumper Fire Truck (A51692)
2003 Pierce Tilt...
1040 (A51572)
1040 (A51572)
 
Top