Removing Bush Hog blade?

[Joe_R]

Hi folks.

I'm working on a Bush Hog Squealer 148 rotary cutter.

I've used an impact driver to loosen the nut on the blade attachment bolt. But after loosening about 1/8 inch, the bolt (#28 on the diagram) just spins when the nut is turned.

The head of the bolt is round, not hex. I can't figure out how to grab the head of the bolt so that I can finish loosening the nut.

It doesn't make sense that a nut to be torqued to 500# lbs, and likely difficult to remove, wouldn't have a hex head or be keyed so it would not spin. Since neither of those things are true, I'm missing something.

Anyone have any ideas how to get this nut the rest of the way off?

Thanks.

 

[DuckSlayer1017]

I think it should lock in place so it it isn’t maybe weld it to the blade.

 

[3 Horse Ranch]

How much are new nuts and bolts? I would have thought the bolts would be keyed in some way to prevent them from turning. In the diagram, it appears that they should be. If so, I would let the weight of the bush hog rest on the bolt heads using wood blocks or something.

Otherwise, replacement bolts are under $50 and I would just cut the old bolts rather than waste too much time and frustration on getting the old ones loose.

 

[dirttoys]

I have never failed to have to cut those with a torch, good on you for getting them to spin at all. On mine they are basically carriage bolts, but the square shoulders round out over time.

Best,

ed

 

[Smokeydog]

I’ve held the round end underneath with a large pipe wrench while a second person uses impact wrench on top.

Replaced with coating spline parts and threads with never seize so not to have the problem next time.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Put a jack under head of bolt and push it up. You loosened it and the shoulder that keeps it from turning has dropped down out of its position.

 

[Joe_R]

Thanks, guys. I'll try the jack, then the pipe wrench, and finish with the cutting torch.

There ought to be a better way...

 

[TerryR]

The bolt has a key formed into it that is supposed to fit in a keyway cut in the arm. It's the same as the one I used to have, and you see it on the drawing if you look just right:

If it turns, either it's dropped down so the key is out of the slot or it's sheared off.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Also folks, I have run across left hand threads on some blade bolts. Something to watch for. I worked at a tractor place so old they still had new bows for covered wagons. Wooden coils for model T's, spark arrestor. But I hardly ever removed blades. If I had a pair of vise grips and a small angle grinder, I'd sharpen them installed.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Put a jack under head of bolt and push it up. You loosened it and the shoulder that keeps it from turning has dropped down out of its position.

This. Sometimes all you need is a prybar on the nut holding it up.