Removing Plug to Install a Block Heater - Need some ideas
- Thread starter Scotty Dive
- Start date
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boggen
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2011
- Messages
- 3,789
- Location
- Trivoli, IL
- Tractor
- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
i will admit. i gave up on 3 bolts. each one going to a finishing mower blade. i ended up taking entire deck to a local tractor dealer. had them use there larger "impact wrench" industrial size of course. and then even a larger bigger breaker bar. with cheater bar included of course. and one of the stronger ones there dealt with it. it took about 15 minutes most of it was "getting a bigger / better tool" to try out. i think it ended up being 3/4? or larger breaker bar with cheater that was approx 8 feet long for each of the 3 bolts.
before i gave up. like you used BP blaster, to a torch, to impact wrench, to box end wrenches with cheater bar. to breaker bar/s with cheater bars. and nothing would give. and things were in such a way, that i could not "grind / drill" the stupid bolts out. so i had to unscrew the 3 bolts no matter what.
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i do not remember the formula of DIY penetrating oil... but it eats paint, eats rust, and gives a little oil... i want to say mutric acid was part of the mix of a couple chemicals added together.
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on inline heaters. (small heater plus water pump) that hook into a couple of the coolant lines never found a good spot to mount them, without them possibly snagging on something and getting ripped off. i have seen multi units have longer cords put on them. but the (small heater / small pump combo) unit always seems to set outside some place either under tractor or off on the side. and right were driving over weeds or possibly sinking front end down in mud / water (up to axle or a little higher) and the unit would get damaged.
before i gave up. like you used BP blaster, to a torch, to impact wrench, to box end wrenches with cheater bar. to breaker bar/s with cheater bars. and nothing would give. and things were in such a way, that i could not "grind / drill" the stupid bolts out. so i had to unscrew the 3 bolts no matter what.
=============
i do not remember the formula of DIY penetrating oil... but it eats paint, eats rust, and gives a little oil... i want to say mutric acid was part of the mix of a couple chemicals added together.
=============
on inline heaters. (small heater plus water pump) that hook into a couple of the coolant lines never found a good spot to mount them, without them possibly snagging on something and getting ripped off. i have seen multi units have longer cords put on them. but the (small heater / small pump combo) unit always seems to set outside some place either under tractor or off on the side. and right were driving over weeds or possibly sinking front end down in mud / water (up to axle or a little higher) and the unit would get damaged.
OP
Scotty Dive
Platinum Member
Thanks Gang....I want to heat the block and heard that is the way to go versus heating the oil. I dunno? The **** plug now has rounded edges from me putting heat and torque on it. I just don't have anything to fit it and finding a 4 point or 8 point in metric is nearly impossible. On top of all that, I would truly hate to break or crack the block. Hoye Tractor said that putting the block heater in the freeze plug is not an option since they are so shallow.
Maybe a lower radiator hose is the way to go - I will have to look.
On another note, this tractor used to start pretty easily in cold weather but not it doesn't anymore. Starts very easy in the summer - Air filter is good and the compression release and thermostart works correctly. Changing to synthetic oil did not make any difference. Any ideas? I use good clean diesel with cetane booster and add a little TCW two stroke oil to each 5 gallon batch.
Maybe a lower radiator hose is the way to go - I will have to look.
On another note, this tractor used to start pretty easily in cold weather but not it doesn't anymore. Starts very easy in the summer - Air filter is good and the compression release and thermostart works correctly. Changing to synthetic oil did not make any difference. Any ideas? I use good clean diesel with cetane booster and add a little TCW two stroke oil to each 5 gallon batch.
boggen
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2011
- Messages
- 3,789
- Location
- Trivoli, IL
- Tractor
- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
no clue about your specific tractor but....
glow plug = little heater kinda shape of a small spark plug. and goes into the air intake manifold. the ones i have seen (very limited amount) have a single wire going to them.
some tractors you move the key from off to on and a little more (not completely start cranking but almost) and hold it for 10 seconds then turn key rest of the way to start tractor.
some tractors the glow plug auto comes on all the time summer to winter does not matter when.
the glow plugs do go bad from time to time. perhaps wire got yanked off as well. or switch or relay is bad for it.
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i have had problems with various "boosters / cleaners / conditioners / etc.." that you dump into the fuel make it gas to diesel. drain the tank and run tractor long enough to work out fuel in the fuel lines / filters / etc...
the tractor should not require anything else to be added to it as for as pure diesel straight from the local pump at given fuel station. or less there something funky that manufacture wants added?
===================
on another note some tractors might have "ether" injection for cold start. little canister you may need to keep filled.
glow plug = little heater kinda shape of a small spark plug. and goes into the air intake manifold. the ones i have seen (very limited amount) have a single wire going to them.
some tractors you move the key from off to on and a little more (not completely start cranking but almost) and hold it for 10 seconds then turn key rest of the way to start tractor.
some tractors the glow plug auto comes on all the time summer to winter does not matter when.
the glow plugs do go bad from time to time. perhaps wire got yanked off as well. or switch or relay is bad for it.
===================
i have had problems with various "boosters / cleaners / conditioners / etc.." that you dump into the fuel make it gas to diesel. drain the tank and run tractor long enough to work out fuel in the fuel lines / filters / etc...
the tractor should not require anything else to be added to it as for as pure diesel straight from the local pump at given fuel station. or less there something funky that manufacture wants added?
===================
on another note some tractors might have "ether" injection for cold start. little canister you may need to keep filled.
buickanddeere
Super Member
Heat the oil and coolant. The battery maybe loosing capacity .
Todd8665
Silver Member
A complete guess, but what about your injectors? If your injectors are not performing adequately your fuel is not being atomized enough to start quickly when it is cold. Colder it is the harder it is to atomize the fuel - the harder to start. Under warm conditions your engine compression makes enough heat to compensate for the "fuel issue". When it's cold the bock actually robs heat from the compression/combustion reaction and it's hard to start.
Try this on some frosty morning. Point a heat lamp at your fuel pump for 15-30 minutes and see if it fires easier.
aeblank
Veteran Member
Verifying glow plug functionality would be high on my list.
OP
Scotty Dive
Platinum Member
In a Yanmar the glow plug is called a thermostart and your turn the key to the TS for about 20 seconds to heat a coil that opens a valve that allows diesel to drip in and flash creating warm heated air to the intake and a small flame. Mine is verified working perfectly. Battery is good and sits on a float charger during the winter. Its oversized and spins the engine over just as strong as during the summer.
As for injectors....its a good point Todd - that could be it. What will heating the pump do????
As for injectors....its a good point Todd - that could be it. What will heating the pump do????
Todd8665
Silver Member
Hypothesis being.... You'll be heating the fuel that is in the lines and pump so the first stuff that goes through the injectors will be "warm" and hopefully atomize better and thus combust more easily/readily.
Todd8665
Silver Member
Hypothesis being.... You'll be heating the fuel that is in the lines and pump so the first stuff that goes through the injectors will be "warm" and hopefully atomize better and thus combust more easily/readily.